Casper

iTrader: (34)

Shows you how weak the dollar is in the international market. I think there are import taxes and stuff at play as well. Then again there could just be price gouging as well.

If anyone is interested I have about 40 of the temp probe magnets I am willing to sell for VERY cheap. e-mail me if you are interested.

[email protected]

mudguard

iTrader: (3)

Maybe someone can shed light on my problem Am trying to charge my (8-Cell) 4200 Nimh battery pack at 5AMPs but CM keeps on beeping and amperage goes down to Zero and climbs back. Using a DC regulated 13.8V 6-AMP power supply but cant get the beeping to stop Is the Charger Defective???

John_S

sounds like an input error try charging at lower amp or getting a new power supply

TAO3RS

@mudguard, change ur power supply.

ygpm

mudguard

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, I tried charging at 2.7 Amps which seem to have cured it. But that's really not the amperage I want to use to charge this pack What's a good power supply and what voltage should I get then? Thanks.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Something with at least 10 amps. Get something with 20 or more amp capability if you want to use more then one charger. The much more racing power supply is nice and compact. The Rivergate power supplies are the gold standard.

mudguard

iTrader: (3)

Thanks casper, am looking into an HSE Japan power supply today or Hobbico one. Both 12 amps.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Those are good power supplies for one charger. They struggle with two chargers, that charge over about 4 amps each. Those are actually 10amp constant power supplies with a 12 amp peak. When I had a hobbico type PS I was always getting false peaks when I started one charger when the other was already going. I went to a river gate 30amp and never had a problem again while running 3 chargers. I would recomment at least 7-10 amps in your power supply for each charger you plan to use.

Hyper1

Rivergate,30 amper,end of problems!

Fervidsea

iTrader: (1)

Hi,

Using IB3800 6cell for 1/10 stock onraod I have been using the Nexus CTX charging profiles for them. However I always run into time constrants at the track and often finding myself needing to repeak the pack before the race. Can anyone suggest the appropriate settings for this.

Also, can I get your guys opinion on my maintence of the packs.

Race
Discharge with Int 0-30
Cool
Charge pack, using CTX, to full since they wont be touched normally for over 2weeks or more.

This is where I am stuck. Should I discharge again with 0-30 then charge before the race or just repeak then race? Can I just repeak for practice and cahrge from there?

Also where does using the Equalizing tray come into play with these batteries?

I know this is alot of questions, but after buying 3 new packs I would like to keep them nice. I "overcharged" a new GP3700 pack by repeaking with the step charging.

Thanks for the help. I really need it.

Fred Perkins

iTrader: (264)

I have been doing some experimentation with this because I am in the same boat. I only race every other week or more.

I have found after you are done racing PUT THEM AWAY!!!

Then the night before you race equalize then cycle one time. (charge and discharge)

The next day equalize before you charge and then charge.

Try to time it so that the batteries come off about 10min before you put your car on the track. (with a CTX charge this is about a 40 to 45 min charge time)

If you go over the 10min repeak with a .009 delta peak. NOT A CTX charge.

Also if you are racing indoors raise your delta peak until the batteries peak off by TEMP around 45deg Celius. (I have had to go as high as .035)

XingXing

if you are new to charging or dont kow how to organise your batteries to know which are charged or uncharged, then just dont use step (ctx) charge mode. the benifits are minimal (if at all) whereas the downside is huge if done wrong.

anyway, just dont remember not to use the ctx mode for repeaking. if you name your profiles right it should never happen.

alternatively just repeak the batteries while the heat before yours is half way thru, then re-peak should take at most about 200mah (2minutes at 6amps) so whilst its repeaking you watch the UP/DOWN voltage arrow.

Nexus Racing

Here is how we like to "treat" the IB3800:

Race Day:
1) Be sure battery is at least dumped (like at 30A to .90V per cell cutoff).

2) Before charge, take battery down on discharge tray. If using the Zero-V or similar resistor-type tray, tray battery pack for 15-20min before charge.
If using the CTX-D, use Zero-Volt profile (takes to .1V) or Dead-Short profile(able to set dead-short time).

3) Place battery on charge right away after traying using desired charging profile.

4) After race, discharge at 30A (standard discharger) or 30A pulse (CTX-D-good for battery life) to .85-.90V per cell cutoff.

5) STORAGE:
[A] if it is planned to run the pack again within a week, equalize pack using CTX-D or Smart tray (automatic cutoff) or Zero-V (manual cutoff), then store.
[B] if it is planned to run the pack again after one week's time, equalize pack using the CTX-D or Smart tray (automatic cutoff) or Zero-V (manual cutoff), THEN place a 450mah (~5min) charge back into the pack (the charger will automatically cut off around 5 min if you set a capacity cut to 450mah), then store.

***Repeat from step 1 on next race day.

Storing IB batteries with a small amount of charge seems to be pretty common practice.

For Re-peaking:
We like to set up a linear charge ("peak charge") profile just for this...starting with ~06 for the delta peak. If battery is "cold," increase the delta peak some. It is OK to repeak multiple times with the CM because it utilizes low delta peak settings. Refer below about being sure cells get warm to hot (within limits, of course) before racing.

For Cold Weather charging:
Rather than setting higher delta peaks for colder weather, we find that it is best for the battery to alter the charging "environment" with a Battery Warming Tray. Regardless of whether or not you would like to purchase this item, it is essential for competitive racing to get the pack warm to hot (45-50 deg C is a good range) before a race for best power. Do not let a battery exceed 50 deg C during charge, because the battery can rise a few degrees in temp after charge, and it is NOT good for IB cells to get over 54 deg C (~130 deg F).

Hope this helps.

Fred Perkins

iTrader: (264)

This is the best way, I was just giving a alternitve to the warming tray

mudguard

iTrader: (3)

Thanks again casper and hyper1 will be settling with a TLP Power supply since I only use one charger