haywood

iTrader: (49)

Are the plastics the same between cars?

Bigz84

iTrader: (24)

Curious, what's your final rear toe at?

UrabusDenis

Yes they are

Xpress

iTrader: (3)

I think the knuckles may be a different hardness?

mizah

Anyone??

danny250r

iTrader: (58)

hey i just picked up a new t3 11 is here that much of a difference compared to the 12 should i convert it to a 12 not to sure electric touring is new to me thanks

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (95)

Finally getting around to setting up my steering. I'm running the Savox SC-1251LP servo. I think I need a shorter steering link since the kit one is bottomed out in the cups and when the Servo is at 90* the wheels are too far to the left by a smidge.

Anyone else running this servo? What servo link did you use?

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

I had the same issue with my futaba 9551.

Skiddins

No, he's only just done it himself, and remember, he said on the Xray forums that it does make it more difficult to drive.

taz00

I run the same servo. I will check my car when I get back from work but I remember that fully screwed in the link was ok.

Skiddins

I found this when converting mine over to the new servo position.

I bought a spare camber link as I recall and Dremel'd off a couple of mm at each end to make sure I had enough room for adjustment.

Skiddins

NPETRO

iTrader: (5)

I had the exact same issue, I just used a Dremel and cut the steering link down a bit....I took off about 2mm per side and now it works perfect.

bucketboy

You could go one step further.........remove that stupid chassis pip, move the post, trim one of the servo ears and get the whole thing a lot closer to the centre line.








Bb

kuruption

iTrader: (24)

Having some weird rear toe issues... maybe someone can explain what is causing this effect...

Essentially, I think one of my aluminum bulkheads for the rear inner hinge pins is bent, but I've looked at them on the board and don't see anything noticable, but when I shim the car for a certain rear toe, let's say 2*, the left side will show me 1* and the right side shows me 1.7*...

Here's what's even weirder...

I figured I would try to shim the left side to match the right side, so I took all the toe shims out and put it on the setup station. Left side is 0* and right side is 1* (1* is right, the hubs have a 1* toe built in right?) So in theory, if I add a 0.75 shim to the left side and leave the right side as it is, they should both end up at 1*. Well, that's not the case. The left side will shim to about 0.5* and the right side is now at 1.5*.

Why is the right side toe affected by adjusting the shimming on the left side?

I then added a 0.4 shim to the left side, and this brings in the left side to just under 1*, but now the right side is at 2.25*.

I then add a 0.75 shim to the left side (so now there's 2x0.75 shims and 1x0.40 shims on the left side, nothing on the right side) and the toe is dead on at 2* each side.

Took a 0.75 shim out of the left, put it in the right side (now 0.75 and 0.40 on left, 0.75 on right), and I get ~1.75* toe on the left side and 2.25* of toe on the right side.

What it looks like, is that shimming the left side is also affecting the right side. Something really weird is going on here...

CarbonJoe

The kit rear hubs are supposed to be zero degree hubs.