3 racing new F1
#4338
Finally getting my EFX back together. I have some new tyre compounds to try out : Pardus pre mounts and HPI slicks. I'm hoping they will produce durability like the Ride slicks have , but with better steering bite.....
The chassis itself has most of the Exotek upgrades :
Chassis plates , front knuckles , upper arms , rear lower arms, inboard front shock mounts.
It has de-anodised and polished alloy bits - anything pink had to go.
It also has Sakura alloy rear shocks, with turnbuckle extensions. I have beefed up the IFS caster/camber mount etc etc.
In this current configuration , I have a 35t spur and can fit up to a 39t pinion. If need be, I could trim even more from the motor mount .....
On the pinion side , I linished the bulkhead enough to fit the std deck post side by side. I also elongated the upper deck hole enough, to ensure the screw didn't induce tweak.
I'm up to the rx , esc and transponder install now, with some setup required thereafter. I don't know the final weight yet, but I expect it to be near 1200-1250 grams.
The chassis itself has most of the Exotek upgrades :
Chassis plates , front knuckles , upper arms , rear lower arms, inboard front shock mounts.
It has de-anodised and polished alloy bits - anything pink had to go.
It also has Sakura alloy rear shocks, with turnbuckle extensions. I have beefed up the IFS caster/camber mount etc etc.
In this current configuration , I have a 35t spur and can fit up to a 39t pinion. If need be, I could trim even more from the motor mount .....
On the pinion side , I linished the bulkhead enough to fit the std deck post side by side. I also elongated the upper deck hole enough, to ensure the screw didn't induce tweak.
I'm up to the rx , esc and transponder install now, with some setup required thereafter. I don't know the final weight yet, but I expect it to be near 1200-1250 grams.
#4339
So I came to a harsh reality that F1's are no fun driving in front of the house on the street. It's virtually un driveable, I'm talking walking speed spin outs and don't dare hit the breaks. Literally like it's on ice. Yeah it's a little dusty but it's Vegas. Aside from spraying my street down with coke or sugar water is there any tires that make it some what stick? Help me not make this an expensive shelf queen.
FGX with Shimizu super soft rears and soft fronts, 17.5 turned way down.
1 degree camber at corners.
Shorty pack all the way back...try a full size battery I guess but won't help a whole lot.
FGX with Shimizu super soft rears and soft fronts, 17.5 turned way down.
1 degree camber at corners.
Shorty pack all the way back...try a full size battery I guess but won't help a whole lot.
#4340
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Since you are not racing I would recommend a 25.5 motor or even a silvercan.
I race with 21.5 and it gets handful when the surface is not treated.
Soften the rear suspension and use hard springs front.
This weekend I am going to try 2° rear camber and 0° front camber.
3° rear toe in. 0° front toe.
No rear swaybar.
5.5mm rear height. And max front height you can get. 4.5-5mm.
I am on the new shimizu soft slicks f/r. I may even try medium shimizu front if the rear is still sliding.
I race with 21.5 and it gets handful when the surface is not treated.
Soften the rear suspension and use hard springs front.
This weekend I am going to try 2° rear camber and 0° front camber.
3° rear toe in. 0° front toe.
No rear swaybar.
5.5mm rear height. And max front height you can get. 4.5-5mm.
I am on the new shimizu soft slicks f/r. I may even try medium shimizu front if the rear is still sliding.
#4341
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Since you are not racing I would recommend a 25.5 motor or even a silvercan.
I race with 21.5 and it gets handful when the surface is not treated.
Soften the rear suspension and use hard springs front.
This weekend I am going to try 2° rear camber and 0° front camber.
3° rear toe in. 0° front toe.
No rear swaybar.
5.5mm rear height. And max front height you can get. 4.5-5mm.
I am on the new shimizu soft slicks f/r. I may even try medium shimizu front if the rear is still sliding.
I race with 21.5 and it gets handful when the surface is not treated.
Soften the rear suspension and use hard springs front.
This weekend I am going to try 2° rear camber and 0° front camber.
3° rear toe in. 0° front toe.
No rear swaybar.
5.5mm rear height. And max front height you can get. 4.5-5mm.
I am on the new shimizu soft slicks f/r. I may even try medium shimizu front if the rear is still sliding.
#4344
Tech Champion
Ed's post with the pretty pics answered that.
#4345
Tech Elite
Lock the steering knuckle to the kingpin. Otherwise you are relying on a small C clip to hold everything together and take the load under spring pressure as the knuckle/upper arm moves up.
It'll also remove slop between the knuckle and the kingpin.
It'll also remove slop between the knuckle and the kingpin.
#4346
Rabbit chassis with IFS setup?
Hi,
I bought a used FGX and it came with a spare Rabbit chassis lower and upper plate. Is there a way to use the 3Racing IFS setup with this chassis, or is it only for F103/104 front ends?
Also, is there an upgraded IFS piece or a way to buy this piece seperately? I have seen a couple of these broken, looks to be a weak link (sorry don't know the name of it, see pic below).
Thanks,
-Rich
I bought a used FGX and it came with a spare Rabbit chassis lower and upper plate. Is there a way to use the 3Racing IFS setup with this chassis, or is it only for F103/104 front ends?
Also, is there an upgraded IFS piece or a way to buy this piece seperately? I have seen a couple of these broken, looks to be a weak link (sorry don't know the name of it, see pic below).
Thanks,
-Rich
#4348
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
I set my front ride height with it. Position the knuckle high, the ride height will be low. Position the knuckle low, the ride heigt will be high.
You can decrease droop by adding spacers below the knuckle.
On another topic.
I added 2mm spacer below the rear A-arms' ball joints to give the rear more camber gain during the weight transfer. Even at 5.5mm ride height and -2° resting camber, the inner rear wheel was going past 0° camber when the car is tilted because the inner camber link attachment was too high.
The used shimizu grooved tires are much softer and stickier than my new slicks. I am going to scrubbed them in on my drive way today and tomorrow since the race is on Saturday.
You can decrease droop by adding spacers below the knuckle.
On another topic.
I added 2mm spacer below the rear A-arms' ball joints to give the rear more camber gain during the weight transfer. Even at 5.5mm ride height and -2° resting camber, the inner rear wheel was going past 0° camber when the car is tilted because the inner camber link attachment was too high.
The used shimizu grooved tires are much softer and stickier than my new slicks. I am going to scrubbed them in on my drive way today and tomorrow since the race is on Saturday.
Last edited by edhchoe; 05-30-2013 at 05:44 PM.
#4349
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
So I came to a harsh reality that F1's are no fun driving in front of the house on the street. It's virtually un driveable, I'm talking walking speed spin outs and don't dare hit the breaks. Literally like it's on ice. Yeah it's a little dusty but it's Vegas. Aside from spraying my street down with coke or sugar water is there any tires that make it some what stick? Help me not make this an expensive shelf queen.
FGX with Shimizu super soft rears and soft fronts, 17.5 turned way down.
1 degree camber at corners.
Shorty pack all the way back...try a full size battery I guess but won't help a whole lot.
FGX with Shimizu super soft rears and soft fronts, 17.5 turned way down.
1 degree camber at corners.
Shorty pack all the way back...try a full size battery I guess but won't help a whole lot.
I was doing figure 8's and donuts and short sprints until the center molding line disappeared. I put Shimizu slick softs on the front and tried driving it but it had too much front grip and the car was doing 180º slides when I tried turning.
I put the schimizu grooved medium front tires on and the car was understeering but very drivable. It was too pushy so I tried the shimizu grooved soft front tires on and the car was handling very good.
As the evening got cooler and the tires lost temp the car started to lose rear grip again.
The front shimizu slick softs have noticeably more grip than the grooved ones. It might have too much grip for asphalt track.
http://youtu.be/pt515hgnhJc
+ YouTube Video | |
Last edited by edhchoe; 05-31-2013 at 06:56 AM.
#4350
So, the new Shimizu slicks have more grip (front and rear) than the older, grooved ones? This is good news for our local asphalt track (hot, humid south Florida) as only foam tires seem to hook up well, and those of us trying rubber F1 tires are struggling!
Ed, just to clarify - you are using PS-0566 fronts and PS-0568 rears? (the new soft, slicks)
I am going to order a set for my son's F109 as well as my FGX and try them out.
Thanks,
-Rich
Ed, just to clarify - you are using PS-0566 fronts and PS-0568 rears? (the new soft, slicks)
I am going to order a set for my son's F109 as well as my FGX and try them out.
Thanks,
-Rich