RedBullRacing

iTrader: (5)

Take out or move the front battery stopper, near the steering post. I have a Nosram 5900 in mine, it fits with the stopper at full forward adjustment.

6376vette

+1 follow this advice and it should fit fine.

6376vette

Ok guys I'm absolutely loving this car. I put in the 1000wt diff fluid in the shocks and it seemed to work well. Car is just beginning to rotate through the turns now. I put a soft sway bar back on and it felt and looked smoother but my lap times fell. Since it was a points race I pulled it back off for the main. Lap times were faster again. I may play with the sway bar again but so far the lap times agree with mantis. The sway bar slows the car down.

now my question of the night. I'm looking for a more efficent transfer of power to the wheels and a way to eliminate the torque steer from a standing start. Has anyone tried the sakura ff roller diff in the fgx? Is the tension of the diff adjustable? Seems like a slight slip would help with the torque steer and rotating the turns as well as limiting the rotating mass to improve acceleration. Any thoughts?

texastc

iTrader: (2)

Torque steer is a beast. I hope someone has an answer for this.

shano83

iTrader: (8)

+1 to that

Oortael

Hi,

how do you do the calbing for this beauty?

regards
Oortael

danielxie

so sick!

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Hmmmmm i dont have much torque steer?? Since the motor is mounted laterally its not coming from motor tq, since its a gear dif, its unlikely that the dif is the issue but that also depends on how its built. My two best guess' are suspect carrier bearings (dont laugh 3r has bad bearings!!) or your dif could be shimmed too tight. or something is binding in the suspension. dont forget that you can also pre-load one side to get rid of it if it is that extreme.

First test. Remove the shocks and install the sway bar. when you raise one arm the other should also raise from the sway bar, make sure it is the same on both sides. if it is not you have a ball cup binding and i just had to change mine last week the right side was bound up. Next test is to remove the carrier bearings soak them overnight in brake cleaner. Run to your local auto parts store and pick up a bottle of Royal purple 30wt oil, once you remove the bearing let the m dry and relube with the Royal purple. Next is the dif, i just changed difs in my car and it started to pull to one side. the gears are plastic and molded so the tolerances are all over the place, make sure when you assemble it that the spider gears are smooth on the shaft. And also make sure you only have two shims for the sun gears on each side. I also went to 1000 wt kyosho grease in the dif which may also be the culprit.......

Vette, im glad my tips are working for you! The locals around here are hell bent in trying to make a 104 base car beat me!! Its halarious and the funny thing is that even the outsiders can clearly tell that my car is superior yet they still keep buying what amounts to the same basic layout. No matter what brand its still a solid axle with king pin front. on rubber tires and/or low grip it just cannot generate more mechanical grip
than IRS, its just physics!

Oortael

How do i set up the toe foor the rear properly?

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I'm with Mantis. On the sway bar, make sure you haven't tightened the set screws down to the point where it stops pivoting freely. If its not free, it becomes just another spring and stops transferring load. After replacing my diff bearings and the carriers, my car rolls free with the tiniest bit of play side to side when moving the diff housing. Granted it isn't rolling for more than a couple seconds because of all the other driveline resistance, but there is no longer a wobble or bind anywhere from rear axle to spur gear. The other thing I've played with because the car is so good with putting down power is throttle exp and ESC punch. I've backed both way off just to soften any burst power my silly trigger finger might try to induce. It still comes off the corner faster than any car I own. Driving style is huge too. The faster you get this car pointed in the right direction then sooner you can put full power to it. I'm not saying point and shoot, but you do have to think about tightening your corner exits as much as possible.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

You have a choice in the base kit, 2* or 3*. Aftermarket, there are 0* to 3* aluminum blocks.

Sydewynder

Check for tweak. Quick way of doing it is to have the car loaded (battery), on a flat level surface then use the back of an exacto knife and lift at the center of the chassis at one end. Both tires should come off the surface at the same time. Do the same for the other end.
If one tire lifts off first then you have tweak from unequal shocks/springs, unbalanced side to side weight or chassis twist.
You can also use a tweak station.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

BINGO!!! since the 21.5 has soooo much tq it makes it a little difficult to exit aggressively although you can drive out of it in most cases, I dont like exit drifting(another reason i run really light dif fluids but playing with 1k tomorrow). So i am playing with different rotors now (ROAR legal of course!) with a high RPM rotor you lose TQ and we dont need TQ with these lightweight F1's. If you notice on my vids you can hear my car squealing the tires on just about every exit, sounds cool but not needed. I cannot full throttle anywhere near the apex, pretty much have to be almost straight. I was taught by a pro many years ago that its best to keep your radio/ESC at neutral settings and adjust the car. Just like last weekend i forgot to change my ESC settings back and it screwed me the entire race day!

6376vette

Thanks for all of the advice guys. It is truly priceless. I will give you a quick run down.

Chassis is not tweaked and is perfectly balanced left to right and is about 60 % rear 40% front.
The sway bar moves freely and seems to to exactly what its supposed to do it just slowed the car down. I'm pretty sure my driving style can adjust to the different characteristics. I want to play with it some more.
The car has great free roll. Nothing seems bound up at all.
I only experience torque steer from a standing or almost standing stop. Regular corner exit is fine. Still trying to get better rotation though.
Steering is great. At least as good as you would expect from a f1 car.
My car is definitely louder than other fgx cars. Gears are all in good shape and have the proper mesh. I'm thinking that the bearing carriers may have something to do with this.
I can't get anywhere near the 35 35 pinion spur combination. Temps get up to 180. Another reason I'm starting to suspect bearing or carrier issues.
Running 80wt shock oil in the gear diff. Seems to work really well.
Esc is rather mild. Minimum drive at 0 with a linear throttle curve.

The car is very stable and completely driveable. Just trying to make it better. I will tear down the diff tomorrow and check out the gears. Maybe pull all of the shims just to try it out. It may be too tight

Great suggestions so far. Please keep them coming.

PS I won the main last night by six laps. There is a pesky 104 that absolutely flies that was not there though. He's the one I want to catch.

texastc

iTrader: (2)

+1 thanks