YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Its been talked about before. Look here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-pan-cars.html

Tekin Prodigy

iTrader: (73)

Does anyone know or know a previous thread that would tell me what my rollout should be for 17.5 blinky? I heard from 90-100mm, and i was trying to get a ball park figure. Looking to run on a track similar to snowbirds. Thank you

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Wrong thread. Post your question here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-12-forum.html

RoyU

iTrader: (2)

Speedzone used to sell them.

TracySlatten

Ok, moving right along! The last few steps took a bit of doing, but seems I may be closer to a test drive. I know the resistor looks a bit off, but I took a chance and twisted the angle of the barrel. (blasphemy you may say...I know I had to look at it for a day or two to get over the different look.) For now I have the mount secured to the radio tray with a single AE 8-32 alum screw.

At this angle the barrel changed little in weight distribution. The wiper arm is stock and flat. The wiper buttom has optimal travel across the resistor surface in the middle of the bands. The resistor sits higher up with the parma mount but not by much, so I made an offset spacer that served two functions. Height change and added strength.

First, the wiper does not have to be tweaked much to get a the right angle and pressure at the button and secondly the servo disc/horn will not suffer from repeated loosening or tigthening of screws into the disc itself. I have though bolted the disc to the spacer, use only 2 holes, to preserve flatness and strength of the disc. On the top side I have 2 more holes for the wiper itself with ample surface area to hold the wiper down. Amazingly, the Novak servo disc with 21 splines...for the nesa-1a/kraft 33N on this car was and is the hardest part to obtain. For anyone using the classic novak servos, the servo horns and discs seem to be elusive. Novakpleasemakesomemore

I have been using a rx battery up to this point to test/tune the radio/servos. I set up the pinion and spur, turned on the radio, and ran the thottle up and down. She's back to life again! Next up, radio plug and diode, body, paint...

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

I haven't seen that much Novak orange on a chassis in a long time.

TracySlatten

Ya gotta go with the classic orange! This setup is surprisingly responsive. The servos are quite fast for being 25-30yrs old!

I finished setting up the power to the radio via a dropping diaode though an "orange" novak switch to the RX. The saying was, that the futaba's needed 2 diodes...and the novak's could get away with one. I come off of the positive side with diode to reduce voltage to the radio slightly from the higher 6 cell voltage. The stock AE radio harness for 12i had 2 diodes. Seems to work fine. Still have to figure out the rate trims for the radio...

Mounted up a Osella PA-9 from Stormer! Thanks to Stormer/Parma for the killer vintage body! The other choice if you can't find a TOJ. These are a little tougher as well.

And wings; another hard to find 12th scale part. I am going to use one of the Kawada's, it has the best shape for the Parma body. I had a graphite wing at one point but haven't seen one in quite sometime. Paramapleasemakesomemore

Bob-Stormer

iTrader: (8)

You are very welcome.

Puts a smile on my face to see your car. Nice work.

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

I don't know if your planning on racing it hard but if you are here are some things you might want to think about. I raced that car for quite awhile in the 80's in so cal. Make sure you use a ride height adjuster if your track is bumpy. we used the clear plastic ballcup that dubro made with a pen spring. The rod went into a hole drilled into the aluminum screw that goes thru the top motor plate. Associated also came out with a chassis stiffener that was made of kydex that u glued to the chassis front to back. U can make that yourself if u feel u need it. Last the motor plate hole needs to be reemed top a bigger diameter and the rear chassis slots need to be extended forward from where they are about a half inch. All this will increase rear bite and make your 12i so much easier to drive.
Of course with the new tires they make now you might be ok. But a ride adjuster is a must because that chassis always sagged without it. If your looking to be vintage the only body u can run is a TOJ that's all we ran in socal These are all suggestions good luck

Jake Gutierrez

bakaguyjean

iTrader: (1)

I hosted a little 1/12 get together 2 weeks ago with a nice mix of older chassis 1/12th cars.
Most cars were run but some chassis were also just for display.

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

I've decided to let go a few NIB kits because I really don't feel the need for having them anymore.

They are:

ABC Carrera FW-121
Kyosho Impress R951
Kawada M300RSW

All are NIB. If anyone is interested, make me a fair offer. I just want it to go to a good home.

mrbeno

Hey all,

This is my RC 12L and getting ready to run it next week with Novak T1-X and brushed motor. I am also getting a new body for it sometime next weeki, but will probably run it with the old one until it is delivered and painted.

I also have a 1/12 Tamiya Newman Porsche 956, it can run, but I need to get a bottom radio chasis, it has been rigged to run with some mods though since I bought it at a garage sale back in the 80's and installed metal brakets to brace the bottom chasis that is cracked.

TracySlatten

Those look like rubber capped tires! So smooth looking...

T

TracySlatten

Thanks for the tips, I have the ball cup/spring setup from the rollers, just about the the last thing I did, I have it on the car now. And thanks for the tip about opening up the motor plate hole, I can see where it would bind up. Your last comment about the TOJ made me open up a NIB TOJ w/paint. I could not resist. I am still in the process of painting the other bodies...will post up soon. Not sure about the tires though, I have a few different compounds to try...

As far as running it...We have a great indoor carpet program in the winter here in Seattle, so I'll be gettting a few runs this winter with other club members who want to try thier hand with the old futaba radio.
And a some runs this summer at the local tracks to try it out on the asphalt.

I have a modern car for racing, but can't wait to play with this in practice from time to time, and to let others who may have run old 12ths to try a resistor car again. Truthfully, at this point I still don't know how the radio will behave. "On throttle" glitching, hanging throttle, random glitching, low voltage were the car starts runnning circles on its own...those where the days.

I have a big, semi clean, fairly new asphalt parking lot, already picked out for the "check it out with nothing else around" run.

Tracy

mrbeno

The rubbers are off of the Tamiya Newman Porsche 956. Still got that one too, but this one will run better since it is in tact and just needs some greese and a cleaning, (the chassis break on the 956 is rigged to run though, but have metal brackets supporting the engin on the bottom chassis plate).

The rubber tires used to keep the 12L from spinning back in the day (and ran foam on the front) and remember clocking it around 40-50 MPH on asphalt. I should have some live footage within a week or so even if the Gopro doesnt come in the mail yet.

I am getting a Go Pro nextweek and gona try to mount it to it ( I know it will be slower but still could be cool).

Quick edit sorry, also I got my Newman Porsche from a garage sale and came with two sets of rims, one had the rubber and the other foam. Just remembering now it probably was in 1986-87ish when I bought it for $around 50 bucks so not sure of the correct tires that came with it and such but the rubber ones were a second set and installed from when I bought her. Still got the all the electronics too. I also remeber it going at a nice speed and still go the blue bell black can enduance motor. I will probably put that in the 12L to boot with the Kyosho Highspeed Lemans motor. Sorry for rambling.