Originally Posted by Conrad
Nice, but gear diff's mean silicone oil and I hate that more than ............... (insert something suitable yourself I don't want to upset anyone
It's not that I'm putting crazy power through the diffs, 10.5t blinky. It's just they wear alot quicker than the diff's in my Schumacher. I can run the Schumacher every week for a year and they are still smooooooth
The main difference is slightly larger t/c balls, thrust washers for adjusting tension and it's a belt t/c. As I said I think it is the no give direct drive action from the shaft that causes most of the damage but I think the spring is alot to do with it as well.
Just looking through sold old posts, DaveW you were running losi front hubs and carriers, were they xxx-s parts or jrxs? Just I was thinking to try the LCD drive shafts that Bertrand has mentioned a few times. Obviously the jrxs carriers will be larger to accommodate the LCD driveshaft coupling but do they fit in the tc4?
Yeah i feel ya. Ive never been fond of gear diffs for the same reason. But im slowly coming around. The amount of run time i can have a solid consistent diff with gear/fluid is far greater than ball diffs. To me, consistent laps and track time are far more important than bench time.
In my 1/8th truggy i got over 8 hours of collective wheeltime before i had the front diff blow out a seal. 8 HOURS of wheeltime. Now, its nothing to stand on the drivers stand for 20+ minutes without needing to walk down and marshal my own truck. Consistent feel, no breakdowns. Just recharge and run again.
Im not convinced they are the ticket for 1/10 lower powered classes, or 1/10 offroad... i think a ball diff reigns supreme there. But anytime you go up in power/grip or size of the car... the gear/fluid diff seems to become mandatory. Even in boosted 17.5 TC i would blow out rear ball diffs a lot sooner than i would in brushed mod classes of years past. I think its just the nature of the beast.
Losi used spring washers in their 1/10 diffs years ago. They were always smooth. But that same 1/10 ball diff was put in a gas truck and it couldnt handle the HP. Gas engines dont have anywhere near the amount of on hand TQ brushless motors do. So you can imagine how hard it is on a ball diff in a high grip condition when youre just dumping the throttle to go because you have the grip to do so. Its having to handle more power to propel the car forward and still do its regular job of balancing power to the wheels.
In theory, bigger balls would offer more friction on drive rings than small balls. BUT the difference comes in as to how many balls fit in the given area. If the coefficient of friction between 12 small balls and 8 large balls is the same... then there wouldnt be any real advantage in that area (except heat dispersion). It seems that ring and ball material would be a greater influence on the longevity of the diff feel. Maybe AE's rings are too soft? Maybe the Schuie's rings are harder? Its hard to tell...
Yeah the Losi parts were XXX-S then. The steering parts are the same as what you can find on the TypeR Losi still has on the market. There is an extra ackerman hole on the newer steering block parts... looks like a little leg coming off... but the upper hole is the same as what i had on my Tc3/4. I used the Losi carriers front and rear and the steering blocks. As with all of the older AE kits... there was minimal fitment involved to make everything smooth... but no major modifications.
If i remember right the front Losi carriers and steering block narrowed the front end almost 3mm total, which was great for adding a little steering and direct feel to the front. The Tc4 steering block widened the front back out with the Losi or AE carriers. One you get a pair, take a Losi steering block and Tc4 steering block and stack them on top of each other with the kingpin holes lined up. Compare bearing offset, youll see what i mean.