olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

No go
chassis is not in stock.

jimjav

iTrader: (1)

I have some questions,

In the moment of the release, they published that there will be plastic c-hubs of 2 and 6 degrees, when are they going to be available?? I have always use more caster than other drivers and sometimes I notice that I need a bit more and I don't want to buy the alu ones, their price is so high.


regards

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

Motor Mount.

can someone give me the pros and cons of running the
one piece motor mount.

thank you very much.

Jim Frahm

iTrader: (68)

Pain in the a$$ to change pinion or set gear mesh. For that reason alone I switched back to the two piece mount. I didn't notice a difference in handling either.

valk

iTrader: (13)

depends on class. in stock, i run two peice cause its easier to pull the entire motor mount and change the massive pinions than fiddle with the pinion in car. serpent should REALLY do somthing about that. like... the hole in the bottom for tightening pinions is stupid.. only my half size 1.5 fits in there and not well. need to fiddle with it at an angle. and this would be the only car id use a small 1/16 so prob not buying one.
make the hole bigger, or move it. or somthing..

i run the one peice mount in my mod car to save gears. the two peice allows too much movement in an impact, or if you get really agressively on the throttle.

not sure of handling difference. both my serpents are pretty different. TE vs first gen with some te parts. different plates, ect.

JAM Racing

iTrader: (2)

handling is improved in and it let the back loosen up a bit i agree that in mod its a necesesity as the number of dead spurs tells a story

it does depend on your class your racing in as well in 21.5 it not really an issue
i agree about the hole but 21.5 it easier to pill the motor mount half so yes it sux but the pinions are so big that we run 63 spurs so without the hole in the gears missing so become a chore

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I personally never liked the feel of the car with the two-piece mount, rear end doesn't feel as locked down, so I only run the one piece mount, albeit with differeing centre mounts depending on situation/track.
Even with my stock car thats the same... as for changing gearing, I agree it's a pain on the one-piece with big pinions/small spurs, but not that much of a chore. Take the top deck off, undo the centre axle mount, then move the motor back and forth until correct mesh... then do the front motor screw up, pop out the spur, and do the back one. Easy enough really

orcadigital

iTrader: (61)

I use a 2mm ball end wrench and have no issues with setting gear mesh running anything from a 78 spur up to a 96 (VTA, 21.5 TC, or 17.5TC). I do remove the top deck, but that is because the pinions won't physically clear it to get them on. That seems to be common with most current TC's.

I am using mostly RW and Xray spurs though which have the holes in them for the motor screw. They are very high quality and I have yet to have a failure with one.

I use exclusively the 1 piece mount now, as it keeps the mesh where it needs to be, but still allows all of the options for top deck screw tuning (removing certain screws for more/less flex).

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I also prefer the one piece mount with the tuning option of the front leg and the better duarability to keep the mesh.

Haven't had a issue with the motor screws, but again, I would reconmend using button head screws to mount the motor, as the shaft for the required tool will have a smaller diameter so it gives you a little more room to get thru the gear and set the mesh.

As far as the pinion set screw access goes, I don't think I ever use the small hole in the bottom of the chassis. I usually run the pinion wrench up along side the spur gear, thru the big cutout for it (spur), and set the in/out of the pinion thru there. This gives me tones of room to access the pinion setscrew. I also mark my pinions with a sharpie on the face of the pinion, where the setscrew lines up, so I can tell where it is on the blind side of the gear.

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

How did you guys take care of ball stud binding? Most of the ball stud-ball cups are too tight as I built the car(now only shock's left) that it worries me. I don't seem to have proper tool to widen the inner diameter of the cups. On the serpent website under building tips, the guy seems to say the binding will go away as I adjust the setting(the manual's lengths of the links are too short that it causes binding) and as I drive the car a few times. Is it true?
I even piled the sus arm holes with the HUDY tools because two out of four were too tight to suspension holders.

valk

iTrader: (13)

I try to limit top deck removal as its very easy to rush putting it back
And have a tweaked car. Shimming it up a mm or 2 might be a sensible option. Then enough room for 50+ pinions to Actually clear it.
Though with a 96 spur i find 49/50 being the biggest pinion my
Tekin gen2 likes.

Funny
I
Find the 411 rear end almost too safe. Lots of traction but doesnt whip around corners like my team magic did. Ah well. Still getting used to it.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

If you find the cups too tight on the ball studs, you can mount one of the ball studs in a dremel, and at low speed run them till it loosens up a bit. Make sure you use low speed or you'll mely the cups. They will eventually free up from usage, but it does take a while. You can also polish the ball studs as your doing this. Reaming the arms is not reconmended as the pins should only float in the suspension mount bushings, the free arm movement on the pin is not required. The too short measurements are caused when you make the link too short and the threaded end starts to cave the inner plastic of the cup onto the ball stud.

Its all true, everything I wrote in that article........lol.

Timmah

I haven't gone through and read all 359 pages on this thread obviously, so sorry if this has been covered.

Has anyone had any experience with the Serpent 411 rtr?

http://www.serpent.com/product/400007

Im fairly new to the whole touring car thing, and this looks like a fairly cheap way to get involved. Is this thing going to be even close to competitive if i was to race it on a fast outdoor track?

Any thoughts/opinions would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Tim.

performula

iTrader: (4)

Definitely

Timmah

Definately it will be competitive?

Or was that directed at someone else. It just seems outrageously cheap compared to other kit form tourers.