R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

What is everyone using for servo savers?

I can't stand the horns anymore, one tap and they're stripped.

The xray tc one works but limits steering throw by quite a bit.

Steve S

iTrader: (5)

I use Tamiya #51000 with the 3racing 18mm horn:
http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4113

Very close to the same length as the kit horn.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

John, I run the 4 spring Xray servo saver, just removing the material on the right side so as to get full lock to lock steering if needed.

valk

iTrader: (13)

ive been using standard 1/12 servo savers for the most part. not ellegant but they work.

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

So Jeff, I'm debating between Eryx vs T4 vs BD7 to buy. I know you had Spec R1 some time ago too. Reading posting about Spec R1, it seems that it could be a big headache off of trying to save some bucks. So I dropped the idea. I own T3 '10 and it's getting old and getting behind. What can you say is better about Eryx than the other competitors like T4 or BD7?

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

Elli, you mean downstop when you're saying droops right?

jeff jenkins

iTrader: (84)

Good Question, for me the spec-r was a great car but the Eryx is flat out more consistent. as for the BD7 and the T4 i have not had those cars, but have seen and know people that do have them. the bd7 is a nice car as well as the T4. but for me it comes down to the little stuff. all three cars are superior quality to the rest of the field. i feel the serpent and xray surpass the BD7 in terms of quality tho. BD7 is like any other car out there. but where the xray and serpent stand out is the lower CG. that they are trying to achieve going with the shorter shocks and towers. but here is what i like best about the ERYX that the xray is lacking. True floating servo mount, spring steel spool outdrives that are double pinned to the spool, aluminum shocks. narrow chassis , ability to tune the motor mount via standoffs as a kit standard. amazing kit build (xrays have excellent kit builds as well) . the ability to use standard length springs is a big plus! Hell I even like the ball stud and ball cup combo. no options ar needed to be competitive. The diff is also very nice. no leaks to report and still very smooth.

like i said its the little things that count.

tak4

Finally ran my new Serpent Eryx today.

Quite impressed at its drivability out of the box but the car suffers from more understeer than I would like during slow on-power corners.



Will spend some time playing around with the set up and see how it goes.

My old ride (Xray T3'12) was a bit easier to drive but the Eryx seem to handle fast corners more confidently.

Here is a vid of our track... I had no involvement in it but I am super proud of it, especially as the RC community in the country does not exceed 50 people.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMqqcU_VlM0

P.s. Another Eryx crashed on its first day and broke the upper deck into three pieces >.< You would make a killing selling upperdecks in Brunei now. Everyone is breaking them left right and centre.

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

paolo morganti running eletric TC

+ YouTube Video

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Next on my list to try is short wheel base. Having built the car with all shims forward at the front and a 2/4 fr spacing in the rear I'm noticing a lot of sweep in the drive shafts and shocks. I've fixed the shock issue with 1mm of shim under each of the bottom mounts but I'm wondering if this driveshaft angle is detrimental to handling at all? I had no issues running the car 3/1 front and 3/3 rear with the same arm sweep in the front and rear and I figure serpent would have tested the car with the extremes of the cars set up range and not given us the option to run it if it was bad.

Team_Elli

yes that's correct

andyw2

iTrader: (1)

A bit of confusion by me on setup. The V1 manual states using inverted suspension blocks on the front rear with 4mm spacers underneath. Some of the setups use 0.5 or 1mm under the hinge pin blocks. I assume the hinge pin block is the same as the suspension block and by using 1mm do they imply using 4mm + 1mm under the front rear?

Thanks in advance for any help
Andy 17.5 blinky VTA (a local thing due to large track)

Akhor

iTrader: (8)

3MM is the 0 point on the front rear block.

If you are matching 1 MM front front shim under the block then the front rear would need 4.
If you are matching .5 MM front front shim under the block then the front rear would need 3.5

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

Serpent America
website is down
need to place an order, any other options to order parts?

i need a EYRX chassis, #401590

gdiddy

try stormerhobbies.com or amainhobbies.com