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Old 04-10-2012, 06:19 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
last year at Jackson RC (130 ft back straight -- or 40 meter) we ran about a 4.4 fdr with Thunder Power 13.5t motors, blue rotors, 35 degree motor timing and 'blinky' esc.
How did that timing compare with other motors on the same track, i.e. Reedy, LRP etc?
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:31 PM   #182
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How did that timing compare with other motors on the same track, i.e. Reedy, LRP etc?
the Reedy never got farther than the motor dyno. basically the Thunder Power and Reedy appear VERY similar physically, but the dyno says the TP is faster . i also really appreciate the fact that you can buy parts for Thunder Power motors. that in my mind helps set them apart from other manufactures.

i've never owned an LRP x12...

the gearing of any 13.5t motor is within 3-4 teeth of each other. you just have to play w/ them a little bit. otherwise, i was racing with d3, speed passion v3 or duo 1 motors in the past.
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:47 PM   #183
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
the Reedy never got farther than the motor dyno. basically the Thunder Power and Reedy appear VERY similar physically, but the dyno says the TP is faster . i also really appreciate the fact that you can buy parts for Thunder Power motors. that in my mind helps set them apart from other manufactures.

i've never owned an LRP x12...

the gearing of any 13.5t motor is within 3-4 teeth of each other. you just have to play w/ them a little bit. otherwise, i was racing with d3, speed passion v3 or duo 1 motors in the past.
Hey Mike,

Are you finding that 35degrees of motor timing is ideal for blinky 17.5 ?

Thanks

Jake D.

Last edited by Magnet Top; 04-11-2012 at 12:37 AM. Reason: google math
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:32 AM   #184
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Hey Mike,

Are you finding that 35degrees of motor timing is ideal for blinky 17.5 ?

Thanks

Jake D.
Its all about fine tuning. I hate to say it but the biggest challenge with blinky is the differences between the speedos and what ROAR says is legal. The fine tuning (gear, timing, ritor) for the same motor is different between LRP and Tekin today. I suspect other speedos have similar issues. Thankfully all of the options that TP motors (and the consistent availability of these parts) have allow you to make things work.

And with everything you just need to make sure you don't get lost down the wrong setup path. As Jim said.. the red rotor is very good. I'm going to spend more time with it outxiies this summer.
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:47 AM   #185
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
the Reedy never got farther than the motor dyno. basically the Thunder Power and Reedy appear VERY similar physically, but the dyno says the TP is faster . i also really appreciate the fact that you can buy parts for Thunder Power motors. that in my mind helps set them apart from other manufactures.
Have you tried the tuning rotors?
What difference did you see between them on the dyno?
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:14 AM   #186
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Have you tried the tuning rotors?
What difference did you see between them on the dyno?
Yes
the dyno can lie. The dyno is useful for matching motors to each other or from brand to brand. You first need a good motor setup before the dyno is useful. It will never replace track time.

use the track as your settings dyno. The lap time is what is important.
honestly there are too many variables out there. Id really recommend trying them on the track yourself

Guidelines -
- don't immediately give up on one rotor type. Spend at least one race day per rotor trying different things each run.
- test the diff between more gear and more timing
- more timing generates more heat than more gear
- always watch temps at 3m and define a breaking point for yourself. Anything more than 140 f I think is too much and won't survive 5 or 6 min.
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:21 AM   #187
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Yes
the dyno can lie. The dyno is useful for matching motors to each other or from brand to brand. You first need a good motor setup before the dyno is useful. It will never replace track time.

use the track as your settings dyno. The lap time is what is important.
honestly there are too many variables out there. Id really recommend trying them on the track yourself

Guidelines -
- test the diff between more gear and more timing
- more timing generates more heat than more gear
- always watch temps at 3m and define a breaking point for yourself. Anything more than 140 f I think is too much and won't survive 5 or 6 min.
OK.
Mine is normally 140degF after a completed run.
The only time it ended above that was 174degF, and I had to replace the stator, I think I had too much timing.
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:07 AM   #188
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What we have found is the taller the gear the less timing you need to use. In non boost 35deg seams to be the magic number. I wouldn't go more that 38deg. As all it will do is cause heat. We also run fans on the motors here connected direct to the battery. this helps keep the motors in the temp range you need. I know guys like to crank 40 into the motor, and all it does it cause heat and will burn up. The best is stick with 35-38deg and play with gear. Remember car set up is also important as if your car pushes your you will feel like the motor has no power and will cause higher temps. You almost need a car on the edge of free and keep it rolling forward. If you can do this then you can take advange of the higher rpm's the motor makes.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:02 PM   #189
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Thanks Mike and Jim,

I had some success with 37.5 degrees of timing ( TP 17.5 / green rotor / blinky ) which is why I asked if 35 was a hard stop or not. With the stronger (green) rotor I'm assuming that efficiency goes up ( less heat ) which is why a tick more timing is possible ? but maybe it is a wash since RPM goes down ( due to the stronger rotor ), which requires more gear for the same top speed ( compared to the standard rotor ). Will keep it rolling Jim! ah... the minutia of racing !

Can't wait for the Reedy race, see you both there !

Cheers,

Jake D.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:26 PM   #190
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
Thanks Mike and Jim,

I had some success with 37.5 degrees of timing ( TP 17.5 / green rotor / blinky ) which is why I asked if 35 was a hard stop or not. With the stronger (green) rotor I'm assuming that efficiency goes up ( less heat ) which is why a tick more timing is possible ? but maybe it is a wash since RPM goes down ( due to the stronger rotor ), which requires more gear for the same top speed ( compared to the standard rotor ). Will keep it rolling Jim! ah... the minutia of racing !

Can't wait for the Reedy race, see you both there !

Cheers,

Jake D.
Correct on your assumptions when using the green rotor. I was able to run at 40* geared at 96/48 or 49 (17.5) with a fan blowing on the back of the motor and came of beween 135* - 140* after 6 min at WCRC. But as Jim pointed out car setup is key in ensuring that you are able to take advantage of the RPM of our motor.
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:27 AM   #191
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Hi guys,just wondering if anybody has any good starting settings for medium size outdoor track running 21.5 boosted tc. Hobbywing esc,xray t3 2012. What would be a good ballpark FDR as I am new to this motor,track has two medium size straights and two technical infields.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
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Old 04-18-2012, 01:23 PM   #192
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Any body here running the 10.5 with boost ? what timiing is a good starting point and any other info would be great
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:31 PM   #193
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Originally Posted by ThunderPowerRC View Post
What we have found is the taller the gear the less timing you need to use. In non boost 35deg seams to be the magic number. I wouldn't go more that 38deg. As all it will do is cause heat. We also run fans on the motors here connected direct to the battery. this helps keep the motors in the temp range you need. I know guys like to crank 40 into the motor, and all it does it cause heat and will burn up. The best is stick with 35-38deg and play with gear. Remember car set up is also important as if your car pushes your you will feel like the motor has no power and will cause higher temps. You almost need a car on the edge of free and keep it rolling forward. If you can do this then you can take advange of the higher rpm's the motor makes.
What motor timing would you recommend in boosted 13.5??
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Old 04-18-2012, 07:33 PM   #194
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What motor timing would you recommend in boosted 13.5??
with a hobbywing I ran 25.
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Old 04-21-2012, 12:14 PM   #195
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Default Pan Car 13.5 blinky roll out

Looking for some help regarding roll out of a 13.5 in a mardave pan car. These are slower and less grippy than a proper 12th scale and typically have to run 5-10mmpr lower than I would in my 12th so any advice from 12th car can be altered to suit my car.

Track is 12*21m and has a lap time of around 12seconds. I initially ran a roll out of 60mmpr with the standard 20 degrees timing on the motor. Speedo is in blinky mode. Car was good but felt a bit overgeared and sluggish. I then went down 2 teeth to 55mmpr and turned the timing up to 30 degrees. Car was now revving as you could hear the motor and it was easier to drive but possibly lacking a bit of launch out the corner until it spooled up.

Just wondering where other people have geared this motor and whether I need to gear up or down to get the best from it.

Thanks in advance.
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