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08-16-2010, 11:43 AM

#121

jonrg

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We're picking and packing as fast as is humanly possible, I'm on a tea break now, been in work since 6.45am. If it didn't catch the post today it will tomorrow.

08-16-2010, 12:32 PM

#122

BlackedOutREVO

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I really want to try a set of these on the front of my car but after running the mi4 with aluminum axles they always bent. Are these stronger?

08-16-2010, 12:49 PM

#123

Owen RaCing

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jonrg

The material we use is L160 which is the aerospace & defence release version 7075T6 which is ultrasonically tested for any impurities and is generally used by them in high stressed areas..

From all the testing we think they are brilliant so much so we offer a warranty

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO

I really want to try a set of these on the front of my car but after running the mi4 with aluminum axles they always bent. Are these stronger?

Hanging out with the real rock crawler people, I learned 7075T6 is supposed to be a flexible material. If it flexes, it will flex back to its original shape. They use it for 4 link suspensions to get flex, and flex back.

08-16-2010, 01:15 PM

#124

spongerX

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How do these joints handle a dirty track?

If they're open and packed with grease do they bind if run in less than perfect conditions where small bits of grit could stick to the grease and potentially work their way into the joint?

08-16-2010, 11:12 PM

#125

Airwave

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Have you planned to make some stainless steel front kit?

08-17-2010, 01:45 AM

#126

Gav-

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Ordered some T3 ones yesterday. Will run them shortly and share my experience!

08-17-2010, 04:25 AM

#127

Skiddins

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Jon, whats the purpose of the rubber bit that has to be installed?

Skiddins

08-17-2010, 04:45 AM

#128

TheCoolCanFanMan

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Skiddins

Jon, whats the purpose of the rubber bit that has to be installed?

Skiddins

Hi Damo
You need to cut the rubber and put a piece into ur outdrives to reduce the movement of the driveshaft to aprox 1mm wen in situ

Cheers Malc

08-17-2010, 05:33 AM

#129

Skiddins

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan

Hi Damo
You need to cut the rubber and put a piece into ur outdrives to reduce the movement of the driveshaft to aprox 1mm wen in situ

Cheers Malc

So it is to stop the 'dogbone' section from moving further into the axle, which would make the driveshaft blades start to come out of the diff cups?

Err, does that make sense?

Skiddins

08-17-2010, 06:22 AM

#130

jonrg

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Damien, the "backlash" adjustment is done with the blades already attached to the dog bone. It does become pretty obvious when you set them up. With each set we do give a very detailed setup guide and diagram.

Hope that makes sense

Jon

08-17-2010, 07:03 AM

#131

TheCoolCanFanMan

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Skiddins

So it is to stop the 'dogbone' section from moving further into the axle, which would make the driveshaft blades start to come out of the diff cups?

Err, does that make sense?

Skiddins

Yea, its to take up the shaft float, so the shaft don't go in n out.........that's just sounds wrong lol

Cheers Malc

08-17-2010, 07:14 AM

#132

JCarr

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Quote:

Originally Posted by spongerX

A good question that seemed to get skipped. Are there any plans for a boot to go over the joints?

08-17-2010, 01:45 PM

#133

erchn

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Have the CVS orders shipped? My order status hasn't changed from "picking".

08-17-2010, 02:29 PM

#134

BILKO1

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Quote:

Originally Posted by erchn

Have the CVS orders shipped? My order status hasn't changed from "picking".

08-17-2010, 03:45 PM

#135

jonrg

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Location: Norfolk, England

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I'm hoping the rest of the orders will be dispatched tomorrow, we've just been snowed under and carefully building each CVS does take a bit of time.
With regard to boots we are looking at various options, but really haven't cracked that nut yet.

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