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Old 12-09-2010, 10:00 PM
  #931  
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Originally Posted by i1justin
as the others just said that nut needs to be well seated in the plastic, it goes down i would say 3mm at least, so you can see plastic side walls after the nut, if the nut is flush with the top of the plastic its not down far enough.
Bingo
thats right on the money ,I thought the nut went in further but didnt want to mash the tube .
thanks for the help guys ,rc tech always gets me fixed up ..
Matt
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:08 PM
  #932  
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Originally Posted by Kevin K
I just helped a friend build one this last weekend and he had the same issue. Make sure that the nut is fully seated in the black plastic holder. I used a 3.5mm allen driver to push the nut fully into the black plastic holder. Place the plastic holder on a hard surface and put the nut inside and then press down with the allen driver while pressing on the nut so it fully seats the nut and you are ready to go.
You guys got it right! I have built a couple kits now. Carefully place the nut in the plastic holder(31166) by hand, then use a flat head screw driver to push it flush with the top of the holder. Next, lay the holder flat on the work place. Use a 3 to 3.5mm allen driver to slowly push the nut into the holder. Push it strait down until it stops. It may take a little more pressure to push it down than expected. It fits tight. This is good because the holder will hold up over time, since it is under significant pressure when you hit something, as well as the fact that the slipper-spool needs to be tightened a few times while the pads break in. also. It is still good to check it once in a while.

The new outdrives and ball diff are awesome!

I hope this helps!

Last edited by Maybell; 12-10-2010 at 09:08 AM.
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:13 PM
  #933  
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Can some tell me if Xray spurs fit on the TC6??
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:17 PM
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yes they do, just make sure you get them the right way around otherwise they will rub on the belt and come too close to the top deck, i would tell you which way is the right way but i don't have the car infront of me and its not that hard to sort out yourself. lol
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Maybell
You guys got it right! I have built a couple kits now. Carefully place the nut in the plastic holder(31166) by hand, then use a flat head screw driver to push it flush with the top of the holder. Next, lay the holder flat on the work place. Use a 3 to 3.5mm allen driver to slowly push the nut into the holder. Push it strait down until it stops. It may take a little more pressure to push it down than expected. It fits tight. This is good because the holder will hold up over time, since the slipper-spool needs to be tightened a few times while the pads break in. also, the holder is under significant pressure when you hit something. It is still good to check it once in a while.

The new outdrives and ball diff are awesome!

I hope this helps!
Thank you Maybell
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:46 PM
  #936  
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i dont know hwat kind of controller you have but what you can do is get the same reciver for the two trucks and there should be and option about choseing which truck
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:54 PM
  #937  
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Just finished my TC6 build. Easiest fix for the diff nut- just splurge and spend $2-3 for a stealth tranny diff screw and t-nut. (part #6575)

Honestly, I think AE needs to ditch the 2-piece design and go back to the tried and true diff nut from the stealth tranny.

Other than swapping out the diff nuts, the only issue I had was with the c-clip on the steering bellcrank. Why not use the same size e-clip as the layshaft in this area? My first try snapping on the small c-clip sent it into orbit, never to be seen again. I know it was my fault, but I really wish they would have used an e-clip here, as I have a ton of various size e-clips sitting around. For now I modified a lock washer with my dremel to make a make-shift c-clip until I can order a replacement.

Can't wait to get this thing on the track this weekend.
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Old 12-09-2010, 11:04 PM
  #938  
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Originally Posted by Serzoni
Just finished my TC6 build. Easiest fix for the diff nut- just splurge and spend $2-3 for a stealth tranny diff screw and t-nut. (part #6575)

Honestly, I think AE needs to ditch the 2-piece design and go back to the tried and true diff nut from the stealth tranny.

Other than swapping out the diff nuts, the only issue I had was with the c-clip on the steering bellcrank. Why not use the same size e-clip as the layshaft in this area? My first try snapping on the small c-clip sent it into orbit, never to be seen again. I know it was my fault, but I really wish they would have used an e-clip here, as I have a ton of various size e-clips sitting around. For now I modified a lock washer with my dremel to make a make-shift c-clip until I can order a replacement.

Can't wait to get this thing on the track this weekend.
I can see this method working for a while, but eventually, due to the "ears" on the 6575 being smaller than a AE blade, I can see the ears eventually breaking due to backlash against a plastic material. The "locknut holder" design is sound IMO.
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Old 12-09-2010, 11:26 PM
  #939  
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diffs are done and the ball diff is smooth like butter
onto step 8 ...
cheers
Matt
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Old 12-10-2010, 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by azz187
Can some tell me if Xray spurs fit on the TC6??
Yes, they fit.
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:24 AM
  #941  
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Default hey yall

hey yall how has anyone tried the box stock setup for asphault? \

I could try another setup if they are posted elsewhere.
I’m about to pick up my tc6 kit tonight cant wait to get it together, its not often AE releases a kit unlike other brands, which I find annoying
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:53 AM
  #942  
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Default still running bessie my tc4

i have saw the tc5 heard about the tc6. driven the tc5 quiet a bit. then ill put my tc4 which is modded as much as can be even with fabricated after market made up parts lol. and i swear my tc4 drives and runs better than the tc5 it handles better,im running foam tires 35ish shore 26mm front 30mm rear. this thing is crazy at the track it seems to almost go by its self. i will gi to the play spot and run 4 cell lipo in it and ive had it to 89 mph. just geared 21 pinion. 72 spur. i race with 2s lipo and i cant even run the tc5. my friend is trying to sale me his tc5 at a real good price. i cant make myself buy it because my tc4 is just to sweet. it looks like a new car.how can i make myself move to another car. im racing against the newest stuff out there. im still finishing top 5 almost every time.
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:49 PM
  #943  
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Default MAMBA MAX COMBO

WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST MAMBA COMBO FOR THE TC6 ON A LONG TRACK. ANY HELP PLEASE
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Old 12-10-2010, 01:04 PM
  #944  
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Originally Posted by mugenize1
WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST MAMBA COMBO FOR THE TC6 ON A LONG TRACK. ANY HELP PLEASE
in my opinion the mamba max pro 5700kv it has plenty of power on the top end and on the bottom end. works good on a big track. put a smaller gear and it runs good on short tight tracks. good all around combo
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Old 12-10-2010, 01:37 PM
  #945  
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Originally Posted by razorsteve
in my opinion the mamba max pro 5700kv it has plenty of power on the top end and on the bottom end. works good on a big track. put a smaller gear and it runs good on short tight tracks. good all around combo
AND WHAT MAMBA MAX ESC? I HAVE TWO OF THEM ONE IN BLACK WITH A FAN AND THE OTHER ONE HAS THREE ROUND CANS AND GREEN FINS I ALSO HAVE THE 5700KV AND THE 6900KV MOTOR.
MUGENIZE1,
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