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Old 12-01-2010, 02:58 PM   #781
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Alright great! what a relief..... Maybe that manual should be taken down from the site until it is corrected? Are you guys planning on correcting the book and/or PDF?
We have been making corrections as we find errors, it's amazing how many people and times you can look at something and still miss items.
I probably can get them to post the corrected version on-line, but I think we have a couple thousand already printed that have to be used up first.
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Old 12-01-2010, 03:12 PM   #782
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
We have been making corrections as we find errors, it's amazing how many people and times you can look at something and still miss items.
I probably can get them to post the corrected version on-line, but I think we have a couple thousand already printed that have to be used up first.

Online PDF update would be fantastic! Most if us carry laptops with manuals, setup sheets, etc in PDF format. Heck I even have copies on my iPhone!

Thank you again Sean.. You are the man!
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Old 12-01-2010, 03:16 PM   #783
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looking for an explanation of why gear diff over ball diff in this case, and what about 17.5 racing is the gear diff still the way to go?
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Old 12-01-2010, 03:26 PM   #784
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Speaking with one of the AE drivers in Aus, he was saying you need to open the out drives a bit more. So drilling a larger penning in the cup. A light sand wouldn't do much. Ill test this out over the weekend when i build my kit up.
The reason why I was thinking a light sand was for it to just fit the blade inside rather than having huge gaps from a dremel. Again, this is without actually seeing one in front of me. Thanks for the response and I await your findings

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The driveshafts are the same as the tc5 i did not have to modify anything with the spec-r bd5 diff in my tc5.I am getting my tc6 thursday i will let you know that night.
Sweet. I'll be playing in the dirt and hope to hear your good news once I log on when I get home

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Yes a drop in fit. It is snug but to problems
You have the Yokomo one not the Spec-R correct? Sedan is going to be really fun this year.(2011) I wish I was running it now but didn't feel like running carpet this year so I got a buggy instead
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Old 12-01-2010, 04:30 PM   #785
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Just found some luck! Managed to get my hands on 2 Yokomo gear diffs! I'm in business now, supposedly they are backordered everywhere. Just need to wait 5 days for them to get here. Grabbed the last 2 they had. Going to run it in Mod and also try it in 17.5 spec.
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Old 12-01-2010, 05:24 PM   #786
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Originally Posted by twk-b View Post
+1

this was never a problem (without the thurst ball assembly) while running 17.5 stock and boosted, but as soon as I switched to 13.5 the slipper was coming undone all the time... when I asked around all the TC5 guys at the track run with the thrust assembly...

-b
That explains much. Just reassembled with the balls, couldn't get a thread to catch. Substituted a nut from an ASC6575, worked perfectly. I'll try it at the track this week. Thanks everyone for pointing me in the right direction.

Back to the TC6: Wasn't there some sort of update sheet about the freeing up the new open ended ball links? What's the secret there?

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Originally Posted by i1justin View Post
looking for an explanation of why gear diff over ball diff in this case, and what about 17.5 racing is the gear diff still the way to go?
+1
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Old 12-01-2010, 05:37 PM   #787
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Originally Posted by mos-leung View Post
i also have TC5 and consider to buy spec-R BD5 diff.
Please post some photos for your diff in TC5...
Any extra spacers needed?

i used stock shims and plastic ones only because i didnt have enough of the standard ones i think you can use about 5 on each side here is the link on the tc5 forum.
hope this helps


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Old 12-01-2010, 06:27 PM   #788
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Ok guys, I was looking at setup sheets for the TC6 and Kevin Hebert show he is using a 1,1,1.5 shock piston. I'm thinking he is drilling his own, but does he mean 2 #1 hole an 1 hole between #1 and #2. Or are they 1mm and 1.5mm holes?

Thanks
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Old 12-01-2010, 07:25 PM   #789
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we have been drilling the blank pistons (#6463) with 2- 1mm holes and 1- 1.5 mm holes. Hopes this helps.
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Old 12-01-2010, 07:29 PM   #790
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Whats the deal with the body brace using a shock tower is that going to be a part?
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:16 PM   #791
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Whats the deal with the body brace using a shock tower is that going to be a part?
To stop the body getting caught on the rear wheels in a rear end collision.
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:14 AM   #792
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Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
We have been making corrections as we find errors, it's amazing how many people and times you can look at something and still miss items.
I probably can get them to post the corrected version on-line, but I think we have a couple thousand already printed that have to be used up first.
Another error in the manual:

The ackerman table on page 23 isn't correct; it includes steering link positions C (which don't exist) but doesn't have bellcrank positions C.
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:28 AM   #793
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
That explains much. Just reassembled with the balls, couldn't get a thread to catch. Substituted a nut from an ASC6575, worked perfectly. I'll try it at the track this week. Thanks everyone for pointing me in the right direction.

Back to the TC6: Wasn't there some sort of update sheet about the freeing up the new open ended ball links? What's the secret there?



+1
Pop them on the ball stud and then squeeze them with a pair of pliers. It might take a couple of attempts to get them free.
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:27 AM   #794
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Originally Posted by Scooter79rs View Post
To stop the body getting caught on the rear wheels in a rear end collision.
Thank you i did already know that was just checking to see if it is available.
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:34 AM   #795
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*completes order*

ahh... amainhobbies.com has stock on the tc6 for anyone else looking.... 374.99US$

-b
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