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Old 05-19-2011, 04:24 PM   #2656
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Originally Posted by Kevin Marcy View Post
Tc4 is the same as TC5/6 EXCEPT for the size of the hinge pin hole (2.5mm metric vs. 3/32" English). Simple fix with a drill bit. I used them in the early days of the TC5 when parts weren't available yet.
thank you,thats what i thought
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:16 PM   #2657
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Whatcha'll think, just finished up a few hours ago....still have to put the transponder and sensor wire in. I would usually rewire everything w/black wires, but I'm lazy nowadays Gotta pull a body off the shelf and trim it up too.....
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:46 AM   #2658
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Very nice!
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Old 05-21-2011, 08:33 AM   #2659
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Default New tc6 owner

Hi All, I just finished building my TC6 and also have the hinge pin problem that was mentioned quite a few pages back. Im off to buy another set to be able to make sure all the hingepins have the same diameter. There is quite a bit of play in the caster block where the hingepin holding it in the arm is the smaller diamater.

Ive noticed with my kit if you are on the throttle while holding the car in your hand and turn the wheel fully the thing makes a gawdawful noise similar to cogging except its constant while the wheel is fully turned and full throttle is applied. When there is no steering involved the car revs up beautifully.

Will this problem disappear once the suspension has some load on it?

Could this be caused by the smaller diameter hingepin?

Or is there something else i should be checking. Ive tried several things and its driving me crazy trying to figure it out. Im going to the track tomorrow to do my first shakedown with the car, just want to make sure i dont damage anything in the process.

TIA.

Last edited by Mandirigma; 05-21-2011 at 08:47 AM. Reason: added info
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Old 05-21-2011, 10:46 AM   #2660
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The vibration is normal. It comes from extreme angle of the Universals, when combined with a spool. You can reduce vibration by removing the set screw that holds the pin in place in the universal and glue you retaining ring with a tiny drop of CA glue.

You should also try to shy away from ever running full lock on your car. Work on setting up your car a little more aggresively so that you can decrease steering lock helps reducing the vibration as well.

Ultimately, a lot of people end up either using a Gear diff in the front or getting some sort of Double Jointed/ True CVS Shafts if they really want to eliminate the in the front of their car.
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:50 AM   #2661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
The vibration is normal. It comes from extreme angle of the Universals, when combined with a spool. You can reduce vibration by removing the set screw that holds the pin in place in the universal and glue you retaining ring with a tiny drop of CA glue.

You should also try to shy away from ever running full lock on your car. Work on setting up your car a little more aggresively so that you can decrease steering lock helps reducing the vibration as well.

Ultimately, a lot of people end up either using a Gear diff in the front or getting some sort of Double Jointed/ True CVS Shafts if they really want to eliminate the in the front of their car.
I second this. Try to run the steering lock at <70%. You'll also find it gets better as the driveshafts bed in and get a bit of play. Sloppy front driveshafts actually help the chatter.
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Old 05-21-2011, 01:23 PM   #2662
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Default Problem Solved / Tuning Option Added!!

After running a few race weekends I found what others have noticed, a weakness in the arm mount blocks. They easily pivot, have excessive play, with fit between bushing and block, then again at pin. Mine was slop free at assembly but even the tightest I could get them would still move. Others have had the entire arm come loose. I set out to solve this, and as I posted several weeks ago adding a set screw to the block at pin stopped it, but the blocks are too weak to hold the screw.

So onto the REAL fix. I have designed a block that solves the problem, but the quandary was how many blocks to build for tuning options. This could get real expensive fast. So....after long thought, and some drafting work I have resolved that issue and also added a very nice tuning option. I named it Dial-a-Grip because it is just that. A single block that moves the Xray equivalent +/-.75 (.030) mm each direction from the 0 block mount location. Now you can dial a little to full anti / pro dive and anti / pro squat with a single screw adjustment just like droop. This will be fast and handy for quick testing or for changing track temps as you can really fine tune the amount. The travel goes 30% beyond the Kevin Hebert setup that use A3 anti dive in front so it should be all the travel needed for the current popular B0 mount location. Also, they are 1mm thicker per side so standard setup of 1mm shim is NOT needed.

I have several sets going to Reedy for further testing but am entirely confident this IS the cats meow!
These sets are already reserved so please don't ask as I have very limited quantities. There will be a few sets extra I'll put up next week, but thats it for now until I can make the production run.

Don't ask how much...they cost me a bundle to make, and I'm looking at another way to tool to save machine time...for now thats just a small hurdle.

Here is a link to the design followed with pics...welcome to Dial-a-Grip.

http://www.ppdbillet.com/TC6-LOCK-BLOCK.pdf




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Old 05-21-2011, 03:23 PM   #2663
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I second this. Try to run the steering lock at <70%. You'll also find it gets better as the driveshafts bed in and get a bit of play. Sloppy front driveshafts actually help the chatter.
I've reduced the steering on my transmitter down to about 65% yet the problem persits. When on a set up board and using a toe gauge and fully turning the wheel to one side I've set it up to have about 13degrees of steering at full lock on both sides. Is this too much steering?

So the noise isn't that I built it wrong or could damage the car? Whew.

Hopefully the noise will reduce once things loosen up. This is the first time ive run a spool so the noise really scared me.

Many thanks.
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Old 05-21-2011, 03:33 PM   #2664
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
The vibration is normal. It comes from extreme angle of the Universals, when combined with a spool. You can reduce vibration by removing the set screw that holds the pin in place in the universal and glue you retaining ring with a tiny drop of CA glue.

So im guessing from this you dont put the set screw back after you add a bit of CA glue to retaining ring?
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Old 05-21-2011, 03:48 PM   #2665
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No, don't use the set-screw anymore.
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Old 05-21-2011, 04:00 PM   #2666
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Very, very nice work Kevin. Can't wait to start using 'em!!!
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Old 05-21-2011, 04:41 PM   #2667
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Very, very nice work Kevin. Can't wait to start using 'em!!!
Thanks JayBee, yours I'll send off Monday.

Just had a look at your new build, and as always, first class looking work there bud. Now comes the real fun.
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:42 PM   #2668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
After running a few race weekends I found what others have noticed, a weakness in the arm mount blocks. They easily pivot, have excessive play, with fit between bushing and block, then again at pin. Mine was slop free at assembly but even the tightest I could get them would still move. Others have had the entire arm come loose. I set out to solve this, and as I posted several weeks ago adding a set screw to the block at pin stopped it, but the blocks are too weak to hold the screw.

So onto the REAL fix. I have designed a block that solves the problem, but the quandary was how many blocks to build for tuning options. This could get real expensive fast. So....after long thought, and some drafting work I have resolved that issue and also added a very nice tuning option. I named it Dial-a-Grip because it is just that. A single block that moves the Xray equivalent +/-.75 (.030) mm each direction from the 0 block mount location. Now you can dial a little to full anti / pro dive and anti / pro squat with a single screw adjustment just like droop. This will be fast and handy for quick testing or for changing track temps as you can really fine tune the amount. The travel goes 30% beyond the Kevin Hebert setup that use A3 anti dive in front so it should be all the travel needed for the current popular B0 mount location. Also, they are 1mm thicker per side so standard setup of 1mm shim is NOT needed.

I have several sets going to Reedy for further testing but am entirely confident this IS the cats meow!
These sets are already reserved so please don't ask as I have very limited quantities. There will be a few sets extra I'll put up next week, but thats it for now until I can make the production run.

Don't ask how much...they cost me a bundle to make, and I'm looking at another way to tool to save machine time...for now thats just a small hurdle.

Here is a link to the design followed with pics...welcome to Dial-a-Grip.

http://www.ppdbillet.com/TC6-LOCK-BLOCK.pdf
OK these are cheating
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:13 PM   #2669
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It's not cheating if everyone knows about it, LOL
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Old 05-21-2011, 08:13 PM   #2670
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OK these are cheating
So much for cheaters never prosper. Got a little morning push from lower temps??....1/2 turn "kickup", check droop...and go grap your morning hot dog.
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