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Old 02-03-2004, 11:45 PM   #8641
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Quote:
Originally posted by pro3racer
thanx, if you have looked at paul lemuiex's car in the novak pictures, that little plack case that goes around a bunch of wires, what is that, and how do you solder abnd stuff like that.
I'm guessing you are talking about the Novak "super diode" for the GT7?
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Old 02-04-2004, 02:29 AM   #8642
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Quote:
Originally posted by futureal
I took a close look at Kinwald & Lemieux's cars just now here at the Snowbirds, they are running a ton of new and prototype stuff. Should have pics up a bit later.

Among other things, they are running the new belt, tensioner and idler pulley, new towers, the BK bones of course, and a bunch of little stuff. Kinwald always has his own spin on stuff so that's worth a look no matter what.

great! we'll definitely be waiting in anticipation...
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Old 02-04-2004, 05:56 AM   #8643
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i looked at a pic of the gt7 thing, and the component on pauls car, and it isn't the same, i'm pretty sure. How big of an improvment is using one of the diode styles. Okay, i'm getting mad, i guess i'll go out and buy a transponder finally!
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Old 02-04-2004, 11:43 AM   #8644
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Default rear toe in is wrong

Have anyone else discovered that the rear toe in on the xxx-s is wrong. It`s a bit more toe in on the left side. Someone have a idea what to do. Some people say that it helps to buy a new diff cover in the rear...

Please help!!

Have anyone any experience with any modification on the chassi? Battery position more to the middle and so on
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Old 02-04-2004, 12:51 PM   #8645
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If you actually measure the toe in in the rear you will find that it's actually an optical illusion that makes it appear that there is more toe in on one side than the other...

I would recommend using a straight-edge to measure it in favor of those elaborate "set up fixtures" that many people sell... they seem to be off more than they are right
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Old 02-04-2004, 01:07 PM   #8646
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there is no way the toe in is right. It`s about 1 - 1.5 degrees wrong. The toe in on the motorside has the most toe in. Please other racers check this on your cars... If I had a camera I could show it.
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Old 02-04-2004, 01:14 PM   #8647
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yea i have noticed this too on my car. and ill check it out tonight when i have time, the thing that bothers me is that does this affect the car in any way

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Old 02-04-2004, 01:20 PM   #8648
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I`ve problems with my car. When the traction is low, the car seems to have less grip in the right hand corners. I think the toe in problem can be reason
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Old 02-04-2004, 02:47 PM   #8649
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What a lot of people have done is run a 1/2 degree on one side and a 0 degree on the other side. This will help you get equal toe in the car. I just through out the 0 and 1/2 degree hubs because your situation might be different.
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Old 02-04-2004, 05:56 PM   #8650
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Quote:
Originally posted by Barry White
You should get the Tech-Racing one way. These are bullet proof. They have one piece metal outdrives and 6mm one way bearings.

Where can I get ahold of a Tech-Racing one-way?? Also are the outdrives secured to the one-way?? I'm tired of looking around for outdrives when the front end brakes and the cvd can't hold it in
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Old 02-04-2004, 06:00 PM   #8651
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I think you can get them from SpeedtechRC.com. They may not be on the website but if you call him you may be able to get one.
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Old 02-04-2004, 06:54 PM   #8652
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Quote:
Originally posted by Poppa Ray
Where can I get ahold of a Tech-Racing one-way?? Also are the outdrives secured to the one-way?? I'm tired of looking around for outdrives when the front end brakes and the cvd can't hold it in
I do want to use this option one-way instead of the orgianl losi one-way kit.
I always lost the ring after broken the arm (the ring is hold the cup of the losi orginal one-way).
now I didn't install that ring coz I already lost one side.

If change this Teah-Racing one-way, you need to change the joint axis (with TC3 joint axis)

I believe that 6mm one-way is much better the losi orginal one-way.

Here is my Losi
http://kkkwan.no-ip.info/gallery/album07

I love it very much!
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Old 02-04-2004, 07:06 PM   #8653
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i want to instal a little computer fan allong side my motor, wondering what two wires do i tap into to get the fan going, and is it worth it in stock racing, the fan is the one out of a old mega peak.
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Old 02-04-2004, 07:21 PM   #8654
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one more thing, i run the plain old cyclone with the stock capacitor. I was wondering if i add the tc2 capacitor along with the stock one, will it help. Or should i just swap the two, the tc2 is the larger one.
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Old 02-04-2004, 07:22 PM   #8655
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Default Rear Toe Fix

Guys quit sweatin about the rear toe as there's a very easy fix for this both on the front and rear arm mounts.

On the the front simply place a .010" metal shim inbetween the left inner mount and the chassis, this will help correct the innertoe when you tighten up the inner block. I used a trinity brass motor shim and a pic is below.

On the rear it is more simple than the front, Simply take off both rear arms leaving nothing but the inner blocks. Now loosen both inner blocks about three quarters of a turn so that they are fairly loose. Next tighten up the left rear inner block like it is(no hingpin in it)just tighten the block up snug. Now take a hinge pin and place it in the right inner block and push it towards the center of the chassis and hold it there WHILE you tighten up the right inner block and make sure you fully tighten the block up-this will correct the rear toe without using differant hubs. Also I used a bit of force pushing the hinge pin towards the center of the chassis while I tightened up the block but it wasn't much to hurt anything.

The reason there is a a tad of toe off when you don't do this is because the inner mount twist towards the outside as you tighten up the inner block due to the screws wanting to twist the block with it-even with the outer block on.

I now have correct toe on each side via Hudy setup system with the same hubs on each side.
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