ZER01

You measure your total caster by calculating it, if you have 2 degrees of anti-dive(front arms leaning downward 2 degrees) with 6 degree caster blocks then your total caster is 4 degrees. If you have 4 degrees of kickup(front arms kickedup) with say 0 degree caster blocks then your total caster is 4 degrees.

I'm confused on what you mean by main block. If you are talking about the block that captures the hingepins then no, that is not your total caster, that is how much kickup you will be putting on the car but the numbers are differant if you use the losi low roll centers. I beleive if you use the losi low roll centers that the numbers are decreased by 2 when using the bottom holes on the bulkhead.

Cardboard, do you have a G+ kit? Do you know what roll centers are on the car?

Cardboard

no, i have the standard kit. The roll centers are stock. By caster block, you mean the pivot block, right? So if i have standard roll centers, then there is no anti-dive? Just kickup from the pivot block?

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

The caster blocks are at the end of the arms and the spindles sit in them. I'm sure that even in the standard kit you have 0f 2f and 4f blocks that will allow you to adjust anti dive. I suggest getting some low roll center blocks to get a better variety of tuning options as well.

Cardboard

ok, thanks all, i think i finally understand it.....

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I recommend getting the XXX Main sedan setup guide, it's really complete and will help you learn to tune your car quick.

Brandon R

I agree with Randman...I never have even looked at a t/c up close untill i got a xxx-s off ebay so I got that book as well and helped out real big...I run gas truck and even helped me out on that too! XXX Main book is really worth the 15 or so bucks it cost

Cardboard

can someone give me the exact measurement(length) of a .36 shock body?(entire shock body)

racer-oZ

iTrader: (2)

Well, finally got the black belt in at my lhs and got it installed. It does free the drive train up. I am going to wait to cut every other tooth off the belt until I get a backup belt. Can't wait to yank the trigger on this thing! Been way to long waiting for onroad season in Wichita.

racer-oZ

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

You wont break the belt any easier when you cut the teeth off, just dont cut into the fibers running through the outside of the belt.

Brandon R

gotta bone stock graphite plus...what kinda hop ups should i get?

racer-oZ

iTrader: (2)

it really doesn't need much for hop ups... front and rear sway bars are good to have... i'd buy some 2 degree and 4 degree hub carriers for the front... and some 1/2 degree rear hub carriers so you can increase or decrease rear toe-in based on track conditions... if you are running on asphault make sure you have full sets front and rear of purple, green, blue and silver springs... if you are on carpet they have 3 springs that are super stiff for carpet.

Hope this helps

racer-oZ

racer-oZ

iTrader: (2)

Here's my ride

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Aluminum screws are cool to drop some weight... I also bought the black belt kit.

racer-oZ

iTrader: (2)

alright, i give, how do you reduce a picture to 80x80 pixels so you can add an avatar to your posts?

racer-oZ

racer-oZ

iTrader: (2)

well i figured it out!

racer-oZ