Xray T1
#2056
It's a little tough to build with no rebound, but can be done. I have talked with a lot of top racers and they call recommend no rebound. By not having rebound youy oil and piston are used for dampning only. With rebound it acts as a spring also. Basically it seems to allow the piston-oil-spring to all do their "OWN" part.
Hope this helps,
Rob Love
Hope this helps,
Rob Love
#2057
ya i was thinking that if i were to have rebound since i run mainly on carpet it may make it seem a little more responsive. when i first built the kit i managed to build the shocks with no rebound but when i went to change oil i was having problems. i guess ill just need some more practice building them. thanks
#2058
No problem.
I run carpet with foam tires and I like 50 weight Losi oil best. Seems to give a good all around dampning and with the clickers you can really get it fine tuned.....
Rob
I run carpet with foam tires and I like 50 weight Losi oil best. Seems to give a good all around dampning and with the clickers you can really get it fine tuned.....
Rob
#2059
i was trying 55wt orion oil up front and 50 in the rear with number 2 adjustables all around but i need to try with no rebound now. i run stock on foams.
#2060
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Hi guys just made a pinned diff/spool for the front of my car, i have never played around with these before, but we have an exhibition race this weekend on a tight twisty polished concrete track, so i expect the traction to be way down, i am used to driving with a oneway so im just wondering what things i am likely going to have to change to get the car to still turn in as hard as with a oneway?
#2061
besercoe the front spool was used by barry baker and those guys cause the front oneway couldent be used for those races they ran with it. it provides the very same results as a oneway powering out of the corner. the only thing different is the turn in. with the spool you loose a little bit of turn in so you might add a little toe out. but if in this race the oneway is not outlawed i would run the oneway. cause you wont have any advantage if anything you'll be at a little disadvantage cause of the loss of turn in you'll have to tune for while the other guys will be getting track time with thier already proven set-ups. remember just an opinion. keep the rubber side down and put another win on the x-ray side
#2062
Need help
Hi guys I need a few pointers. I have an first edition xray and I'm running the standard setup with the exception of front one way, sway bar and moving the lower rear shock to position 2. I was wondering what would be a good setup for a very tight carpet track with rubber tires. I don't have a vip card so I can't get into the room to chech it out. If you guys can help me out that would be great.
Thanks E-volo
Thanks E-volo
#2064
You know me Mr. Lee. count me in.
Thanks,
Rob Love
Fleeeeeeeeeeeetwoooooooooooooooood
Thanks,
Rob Love
Fleeeeeeeeeeeetwoooooooooooooooood
#2066
Tech Regular
I`m game!
#2069
Tech Apprentice
Returning to on-road R/C. Need a car???
Hi guys. I've been out of on-road electric r/c for a little while, but I'm looking to get back in. I've decided on everything except a car so I'm soliciting your help. I realize that this is a forum for Xray enthusiast so I expect some bias. But that's ok, because I'm going to post the same question to the Tamiya site, since my only other consideration (right now) is the 414MII.
Anyway, I'm looking for a car to race primarily in the stock class, with rubber tires on an asphalt parking lot road course. I want a complete car! I don't want to have to purchace swaybars, one way diffs etc. down the road (or at least keep upgrades to a minimum).
I like the quality look of the Xray, and the many battery setup options. The price is a little steep, but since Hudy had some involvement, I'm sure that it's a high quality chassis. I used to have Hudy diamond lathe, tire truer, and hex tools.
Anyway, I'm hoping that you guys can share with me some of the positive and negative aspects of this car. Keeping in mind that while I'm not a pro, my driving/tuning skills are above average.
Questions:
- Is this a good asphalt car? The chassis looks stiff, and that's usually better on carpet.
- What about parts breaking? Are there any parts that I should keep in my tool box?
- I've heard/read that the chassis is pre-built, is this true?
Any other information or suggestions you can offer are welcomed.
Thanks.
Anyway, I'm looking for a car to race primarily in the stock class, with rubber tires on an asphalt parking lot road course. I want a complete car! I don't want to have to purchace swaybars, one way diffs etc. down the road (or at least keep upgrades to a minimum).
I like the quality look of the Xray, and the many battery setup options. The price is a little steep, but since Hudy had some involvement, I'm sure that it's a high quality chassis. I used to have Hudy diamond lathe, tire truer, and hex tools.
Anyway, I'm hoping that you guys can share with me some of the positive and negative aspects of this car. Keeping in mind that while I'm not a pro, my driving/tuning skills are above average.
Questions:
- Is this a good asphalt car? The chassis looks stiff, and that's usually better on carpet.
- What about parts breaking? Are there any parts that I should keep in my tool box?
- I've heard/read that the chassis is pre-built, is this true?
Any other information or suggestions you can offer are welcomed.
Thanks.
#2070
Deacon both cars are very good for what you want to do.
i lean a little twords the x-ray of coarse. the t-1 is a stiff chassis, but the evo-2 is more flexable and forgiving. as far as parts breakage i got one of the first t-1 kits and one of the first evo-2 kits and between the 2 cars i havent spent $50 bucks on replacement parts. that says something. the diffs between the two cars is something you want to look at. tamiya are open and to me feel kind of gritty even new as the x-ray diffs are sealed and feel smooth. on my t-1 i'm sill running the origanal diffs still smooth as silk. my daughter has a ta04 pro as its not a 414m2 it still uses the same diffs and i've rebuilt them 3 times and this last time i used carbide diff balls although it dont feel as gritty its still not as smooth as the x-ray. i could go on and on but its what you are compfortable with and what you can spend. i think the up front cost of the x-ray is more but in the long run is cheaper. just my 2 cents worth
p.s. glad to see you come back even if you dont get an x-ray
i lean a little twords the x-ray of coarse. the t-1 is a stiff chassis, but the evo-2 is more flexable and forgiving. as far as parts breakage i got one of the first t-1 kits and one of the first evo-2 kits and between the 2 cars i havent spent $50 bucks on replacement parts. that says something. the diffs between the two cars is something you want to look at. tamiya are open and to me feel kind of gritty even new as the x-ray diffs are sealed and feel smooth. on my t-1 i'm sill running the origanal diffs still smooth as silk. my daughter has a ta04 pro as its not a 414m2 it still uses the same diffs and i've rebuilt them 3 times and this last time i used carbide diff balls although it dont feel as gritty its still not as smooth as the x-ray. i could go on and on but its what you are compfortable with and what you can spend. i think the up front cost of the x-ray is more but in the long run is cheaper. just my 2 cents worth
p.s. glad to see you come back even if you dont get an x-ray