rcko

iTrader: (15)

Second Andrew. Work the front end plastic pieces to get rid of any binding. Also do not overtighten the plastic trailing arms. Polishing the kingpins also helps.

VRacing

Just saw this piece over on the CRC 1/10 Pan thread.http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718944

Has anyone used this on their GenXL? If already using the Long Arm setup would it lead to the minimum camber gain possible on the Pro-Strut FE?

On the CRC website - I just realized we only have 1 GenXL setup from 2010 and 3 from 2009 to refer to? Any other 2010 team setups available? After seeing how many drivers on the 1/10th WGT car are using this "raised" hinge pin setup, I'm just curious if any team drivers are using it on the GenXL this season?

TVMRocket69

iTrader: (9)

Hello all. Is there a new chassis comming out for the GenXL?

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

What are the effects of the different caster blocks(0,5,10)?

Shawn68z

iTrader: (6)

More caster will make the car re-act quicker and give more steering coming into a corner. By using the castor blocks, the caster will decrease as the suspension compresses, thus, removing caster. It will take steering away from the front end, allowing the rear to hook up better, and prevent your car from spinning out on corner exit.

Or so thats the way I understand it.

Shawn.

sg1

iTrader: (79)

Hey guys,
I thought I'd post some pics and the set up I used at the US Indoorchamps.
This set up TQ'ed and won the A main masters

Front:
1.61" magenta, sidewall glued
2 shims on axle to space wheel out
10* castor blocks
stock upper a-arms
.50mm springs with .005" droop
20,000 lube on kingpins
servo flat
3 3/4mm clearance

rear:
1.66" magenta, seam glued
max. width
white side springs, .01" off of bottom plate
20,000 side tube lube
25wt. oil with red spring
1mm droop
4 1/4mm clearance

If you have any questions or comments let me know

WIITA

iTrader: (43)

Thanks for posting your setup. Just out of curiosity what is the best way to tweak you can when having the springs .01 off the bottom plate? Do you use a shim while tweaking or some other method. Also, I see you ran magenta over yellow or gray lows. How did they feel on such high traction? Did they free the rear up or plant it more? Finally, Was the red center spring the new red spring or the old stiffer one? Thanks again!!!!

sg1

iTrader: (79)

I use scales on the front tires to make sure the chassis is balanced, no tweeking then Make sure you take the side tubes off, motor wires and sensor cable need to be off, and back off the side springs. I just look at the L to R weight on the front tires then move my electronics around till the front tires are equal. I have an aluminum spacer that goes under the rear tires to lift them up to the same height as the front.

When all is good I set the car on a flat surface and bring the springs down. I slide a header card (or something approx. .01" thick) under them and let the spring just kiss it, then stop. Then I'll set the rear of the car up on a Niftech tweek bar and see how much the rear pod returns when I push each rear tire down. I'll watch to see how far the bubble is off center each way and fine tune the springs so they're equal. At no time will the bubble center while doing this, the springs are off the bottom plate and won't let the rear pod center.

The red center spring was an old spring (Assoc.)

The magenta rears helped with side traction and seemed to have more forward bite. My car was good with purple fronts and yellow rears, but it "slid" on the carpet in some turns. I changed to magenta fronts and had too much front bite and started to square off. My last change was to magenta rears, which was the perfect balance with the magenta fronts.

Buckaroo

iTrader: (3)

What RX battery pack are you using?

sg1

iTrader: (79)

It's a Team Scream 7.4v lipo 120mah

kaddillac

can someone with chassis knowledge explain to me what difference the short link bars on my genx and the long ones on the xl would be in handling

and also what would be the difference in a thick chassis and a normal thickness chassis on carpet?

And the right person reads this could i get calandra to make me a new chassis to my spec special order?

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I'm not 100% sure what it does to the car physically, but I THINK the short links produce more "rear steer"... almost like 4 wheel steering in a way. It's very slight. The longer links help minimize the effect of the car wanting to come out of line from the centerline of the chassis.

On the track... The longer links make for a more stable and consistent car overall. I ran the old Gen X before the longer links, and I must say I really like the Gen XL with longer links. Much easier to drive.

Stiffer chassis will feel a little more responsive. It will be more consistent in higher grip conditions, and generaly provide better corner speed when the rest of the car is setup correctly. Softer chassis's work good in lower grip conditions and help make the setup window a little bigger. The car can become a little funky to drive when the grip is really high though. It will feel make the car feel somewhat numb to setup changes.

-Korey

Shawn68z

iTrader: (6)

As long as the balls at the end of the links are at the same height (which should be the same height of the pivot ball in the football), then the links will not produce a rear-steer effect.
What does happen though, is as the angle of the link increases (as the front of the chassis rolls), the link effectively becomes shorter. Since it is happening on both sides of the chassis at the same time, to the same angle, it causes a bind in the suspension.
The longer links minimize this effect because they will have less angle for the same amount of chassis role.

Definately use the longer links. :-)

Shawn.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Hence why I said I think :P Thanks! I learned something today!

-Korey

VRacing

Wayne,

Thanks for putting up some new 2010 setup info for us! Congrats on winning your class!

Noticed your flat mount servo position? In the past that has not been a setup promoted by Frank, but to each his own? I'm fairly sure that Brian Bodine runs this servo setup as well and has for quite some time. Could you give us a quick overview of what types of handling or driveability a club driver may benefit by experimenting with this setup over the standard angle mount? Getting the "correct" tie-rod angles is key, no?

Thanks!