Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Is it loosing front traction? Rear? Or both?

I you develop a major push later in the run, try Black or grey front tires instead. They pick up less junk off the track and give much more consistent performance through the run. They do wear a little more though.

TrevCoult

How much were the yellows wearing by? It sounds like you are running out of additive at the rear. Try keeping the rear additive on for longer, and if that doesn't work swap to pink rears, also keeping the additive on for longer.

Trev

RDOUBLEDAY

iTrader: (10)

It keeps the steering, Just looses the rear traction. I am keeping additive on for about 10-15 minutes. Thanks.

jarkko

On our carpets in this part of the world "Jack" is well known for doing just that around the 6 minutes mark. Try CS High Grip or Speedtech additive if the are available. Both remain more consistent through the 8 minute race.

Having additive on for 10-15 minutes is a little bit short time, too.

avs

iTrader: (2)

in their tire insert, CRC mention a new family of foam tires, the G3 rubber. i don't see them mentioned anywhere else, have they not been released yet?

Aaron Buran mentioned using 'hard pinks' some months ago, is that the same tire?

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

We run on medium bite carpet and in boosted 13.5 I experienced the same thing. I went to white rears and the problem went away. Saucing for a longer time is also a good idea. I did get a bit of a lecture about not over driving the car trying to hot lap every time around. Todays 13.5 boost is yesterdays mod, and I seem to remember the fast guys building up to their fast lap and just rolling it around from time to time. To be honest, I think a good 12th will allow you to push it hard every corner and finish strong, but its hard to disregard the advice of a multi-national champion. In the end this weekend the whites let me push hard the whole 8 minutes. I tried the yellows in practice over and over and they always went away between the 5-7 minute mark. I haven't confirmed this more than just casully, but I think a softer center spring and raising the side springs a bit takes some stress of the rear tire sauce and allows it to remain longer. May not be an option if it induces a push though.

madhammer

iTrader: (32)

I battled the same problem on a medium bite carpet track and i was using paragon. I ran black fronts and yellow rears and the car was awesome for 6 minutes. Second round I put on fresh yellows, same thing. Third round put on pink rears, same thing, car was .2 faster but fell off about 5 or 6 minutes. For the main I put the yellows back on and went from a 12# to 10# center spring and the car was tighter from center of corner off, but lasted a little longer. I ordered some white rears and will try them with the setup I started with yesterday.

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

Try making a akramin change it will help with the loosing the rear problem.

madhammer

iTrader: (32)

White tires were the trick for me too, I also put lilacs on the front to keep the steering in the car. Car was on rails on a still green track. This car is great, I was able to convince a buddy of mine to get one too.

V12

iTrader: (1)

Yes the motor bulkhead works very good on the left side. This is what one guy here is using also on all of his CRC cars. No broken lower pod plate anymore also stiffer pod.

What is that custom top plate youīre talking about? Who makes this? I think a lot of guys would prefere running this instead of the open pod. For 1S the open pod may work but especially on the 1/10th car when running 2S (used alot outside of the USA) the open pod isnīt really good. Here a lot of guys went away from the Gen-X 10 as itīs too brittle for 2S racing. The new LE version looks much better in this direction with the new chassis arrangement but a closed pod is what still is needed. Actually it isnīt much work as just a new top plate would be needed. It doesnīt matter if CRC makes this or someone other makes a custom top plate.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

McKune...?

Jeppi

HI all,

Just received my crc gen xl. I took the optional pro-strut graphit brace (3277) plus the optional long arms (3348).

I am surprised to see that there is no instruction to incorpore those in the kit. You have to figure it out by yourself. Once you do it seems that with the red screws that come with the pro strut you can only build it with short arms.

Seems that i need 4 locknut plus 4 short button head screws to build it in long arms configuration. Is that correct? are those avalaible in one of the optional screw set? We use metric screws where i live.

On another note the 4 washers on the shaft of the upper arm are too big for it to go in his location. what ajustement do i have to do to make it fit? Is there any tutorial about preparing this part of the car well?

thanks in advance for the help.

Pablo Diablo

iTrader: (3)

What part of the world are you from?

Most people only use 3 teflon caster spacers each side. All setups I have seen show only 3. A little filing or dremelling may be needed.

The locknuts you need are the same as the front wheelnuts, 4-40 UNC thread. Same thread needed on the short button head screws.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I don't know what the CRC part # is, but yes, you will need 4 short button heads, and 4 4-40 locknuts. As mentioned above, you should have 3 clearish or white shims to use in adjusting your castor. I found that a little TLC with a 2mm drill bit through the arm's inner hingepin holes helped get the upper arm free. In my understanding of the way it should work, the upper 4 bolt cap should lock the pin into place against the castor block, and the arm should rotate around the pin. The two things that can bind up the upper arm are the arm pin holes not being free (use the 2mm bit to get them free but not loose) and the cap and castor block (0, 5, or 10) binding against the shims and thus the upper arms. If the arm rotates freely with no castor shims, but binds when assembled (the upper arm should fall under its own weight IMHO) then you know the culprit is the cap or castor block. I chose to shave mine down patiently and gingerly with a dremel at the lowest setting, fitting, testing and refitting until the upper arm did not bind with the cap tightened down and the shims installed, and yet there was no fore/aft play allowing unwanted castor changes.

Hope that helps. In the end the goal of any 1/12th front suspension (again IMHO) is for each upper arm to fall under its own weight with the kingpin and axle installed through the pivot ball, obviously minus the lower e-clip and spring.

Hopefully one of the fast team guys will come correct me if I am wrong...

Jeppi

Thanks for the help, i'll try my best to prepare it well and then run it this week end. I'll use the short arms for now.

It could work with M3 screws to secure the graphite brace but i am still missing the 4 buton head screws.

BTW I am from France Pablo Diablo.