9Likes3racing F109
10-21-2010, 07:35 AM
#1321
Tech Initiate
I managed to break one of the small circlips on the front bulkhead - the 2.6mm ones. It's an odd size, so does anyone know of a suitable replacement?
10-21-2010, 08:35 AM
#1322
I usually squeeze down a larger e clip to size in a jam.
Should hold you over for a bit.
Should hold you over for a bit.
10-21-2010, 08:42 AM
#1323
Tech Initiate
Has anyone tried tapping a grub screw into the suspension arms to hold the hinge pins, either perpendicular to the pins, or from the end, cutting down the pins in the process? I can't say I'm a fan of circlips...
10-22-2010, 03:56 PM
#1324
Tech Master
Has anyone fitted and raced the carbon chassis upgrade? If so how does it affect the handling?
10-23-2010, 12:50 PM
#1325
Haven't tried this on my 109 but I have used grub screws to secure the pins on my ABC Genetic. Drilled some small holes in the bottom shock tower. Mainly did it to get rid of slop but it holds pretty well. I don't know how well it will work on 109 as the arms are pretty thin I think...don't have my car in front of me. Maybe grub screws @ the ends on shorter pins will work.
10-23-2010, 01:41 PM
#1326
Well, first race with my F109 today.
Not bad, started with 13,5T Turnigy brushless + 2S Lipo, qualified 3rd, but wasnt happy with the speed, so I switched for my LRP 10,5T. Since this motor is not used in stock class anymore here, I planned to use it anyway. Speed was OK then, just had to be carefull with the trigger in technical part.
Finished 3rd, lost 3rd (last) final run when fighting for 2nd (also overall), my servo died after not so big race contact, will have to inspect it.
I had 2 problems today, first, e-clip on king pin came off. Luckily, I had set screws in knuckle arm shafts installed, so nothing bad happened. I plan to make king pins with threads at its ends, so e-clips will be replaced with nuts. Second problem was loose screw holding swing ball. Dont forget to apply thread lock here, access is really bad, once you have all your electronic stuff installed.
I am very happy with this car. Running box tyres (CA'd outer sides of front wheels, tyre aditive on rears), I was able to beat Corally cars
Not bad, started with 13,5T Turnigy brushless + 2S Lipo, qualified 3rd, but wasnt happy with the speed, so I switched for my LRP 10,5T. Since this motor is not used in stock class anymore here, I planned to use it anyway. Speed was OK then, just had to be carefull with the trigger in technical part.
Finished 3rd, lost 3rd (last) final run when fighting for 2nd (also overall), my servo died after not so big race contact, will have to inspect it.
I had 2 problems today, first, e-clip on king pin came off. Luckily, I had set screws in knuckle arm shafts installed, so nothing bad happened. I plan to make king pins with threads at its ends, so e-clips will be replaced with nuts. Second problem was loose screw holding swing ball. Dont forget to apply thread lock here, access is really bad, once you have all your electronic stuff installed.
I am very happy with this car. Running box tyres (CA'd outer sides of front wheels, tyre aditive on rears), I was able to beat Corally cars
10-23-2010, 11:30 PM
#1328
10,5T LRP (X11, X12), 2S lipo + some LRP speedo
BTW, winner (that Honda behind my car) is F109 also, LRP 10,5T X11, 2S lipo, LRP Speedo, box tires. Dont know exact versions of accu or speedo.
BTW, winner (that Honda behind my car) is F109 also, LRP 10,5T X11, 2S lipo, LRP Speedo, box tires. Dont know exact versions of accu or speedo.
10-24-2010, 12:29 AM
#1330
A bit 
I think if I had "slower" speedo than SP GT2 LPF, it would be fine. Or proper 13,5T motor, that Turnigy is not good, slow starts and 90°C after run, 10,5T with almost same gear ratio (78 (13,5T) -> 81T (10,5T) spur gear, 15T pinion) is only 44°C.
But since motor is unlimited, Ill stick with 10,5T as long as others do.
Maybe someone will post it on organizers forum, I dont have any video or race photos.
I think if I had "slower" speedo than SP GT2 LPF, it would be fine. Or proper 13,5T motor, that Turnigy is not good, slow starts and 90°C after run, 10,5T with almost same gear ratio (78 (13,5T) -> 81T (10,5T) spur gear, 15T pinion) is only 44°C.But since motor is unlimited, Ill stick with 10,5T as long as others do.
Maybe someone will post it on organizers forum, I dont have any video or race photos.
Last edited by Acid_CZ; 10-24-2010 at 10:24 AM.
10-24-2010, 09:11 AM
#1331
10-24-2010, 06:59 PM
#1332
All you need are the two bearings that fit into F104 wheels. Put one of these bearings onto the F109 front axle, then the other bearing into the rear of the F104 wheel. Now grab a smaller bearing that fits right into the front of the F104 wheel, then tighten with any nut (flanged or non-flanged). I just tried it now and works a treat. Will report back to see how it goes on the track.
10-25-2010, 02:09 AM
#1333
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
Guys, just figured out how to run F104 tyres on my stock F109 without changing front arms (although the front wheels will stick out more than rears which is want I want anyway).
All you need are the two bearings that fit into F104 wheels. Put one of these bearings onto the F109 front axle, then the other bearing into the rear of the F104 wheel. Now grab a smaller bearing that fits right into the front of the F104 wheel, then tighten with any nut (flanged or non-flanged). I just tried it now and works a treat. Will report back to see how it goes on the track.
All you need are the two bearings that fit into F104 wheels. Put one of these bearings onto the F109 front axle, then the other bearing into the rear of the F104 wheel. Now grab a smaller bearing that fits right into the front of the F104 wheel, then tighten with any nut (flanged or non-flanged). I just tried it now and works a treat. Will report back to see how it goes on the track.
F104 rims require 5x10mm bearings on the inside and outside of the rim.... hence you are perfectly correct, with the right bearings, you can use whatever wheels you wish.
10-27-2010, 01:51 AM
#1334
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Cooling for F109
I have a question for all those running a silvercan in their F109. I have seen a posting saying " with cooling people are running this roll out with a silvercan motor" , but there is not a lot of space in the rear pod to put a fan.
Has anyone tried running a fan to cool the motor and where would be the best place for it. I was looking at putting a spacer or two on the rear wing attachment and try sliding a fan up by the rear axle to blow air directly onto the motor.
Just wanted to know if anyone has tried mounting a fan (or two) and where did you mount them?
Has anyone tried running a fan to cool the motor and where would be the best place for it. I was looking at putting a spacer or two on the rear wing attachment and try sliding a fan up by the rear axle to blow air directly onto the motor.
Just wanted to know if anyone has tried mounting a fan (or two) and where did you mount them?
10-29-2010, 04:42 PM
#1335
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-f10...t-p-31154.html
There you go for a look at how some people run fans. That's an F104 motor mount though, so don't go buying that exact item for your f109
There you go for a look at how some people run fans. That's an F104 motor mount though, so don't go buying that exact item for your f109