Rotor magnet test I-Gauss or others
06-01-2010, 08:16 AM
#17
Fading? Weren't these things supposed to last forever with no maintenance? Weren't they all supposed to be the same?
When I saw the Novak graded rotor thing, I almost fell out of my chair laughing....
Sorry, I couldn't resist.....
Later EddieO
When I saw the Novak graded rotor thing, I almost fell out of my chair laughing....
Sorry, I couldn't resist.....
Later EddieO
06-01-2010, 10:49 AM
#20
Its true.........they're all the same till you run them.
06-01-2010, 12:35 PM
#21
Well, I am gonna beg to differ they are all the same till you run them. I pulled apart 10 21.5 Pulse's and the rotor strength was all over the map.....5 Novaks were the same way......if your theory was correct, how could Novak sell graded rotors? They flat out admit that anything under 1300 goes into a regular motor.....so obviously they are different before ever seeing an drop of current.
M-Technic, and I know some start weaker....that's what I said 6 years ago....and 5, 4, 3 too, but the big brushless adopters of the early days maintained they were all the same and we would not see the variances like we did from one brushed stock motor to the next.....there will always be production tolerances and variances......and that's why we see stuff all over the map.....
I just couldn't help giving syndrome a hard time...our debates over these subjects go way back
Fun times!
Later EddieO
M-Technic, and I know some start weaker....that's what I said 6 years ago....and 5, 4, 3 too, but the big brushless adopters of the early days maintained they were all the same and we would not see the variances like we did from one brushed stock motor to the next.....there will always be production tolerances and variances......and that's why we see stuff all over the map.....
I just couldn't help giving syndrome a hard time...our debates over these subjects go way back
Fun times!Later EddieO
06-01-2010, 02:02 PM
#22
Well, I am gonna beg to differ they are all the same till you run them. I pulled apart 10 21.5 Pulse's and the rotor strength was all over the map.....5 Novaks were the same way......if your theory was correct, how could Novak sell graded rotors? They flat out admit that anything under 1300 goes into a regular motor.....so obviously they are different before ever seeing an drop of current.
M-Technic, and I know some start weaker....that's what I said 6 years ago....and 5, 4, 3 too, but the big brushless adopters of the early days maintained they were all the same and we would not see the variances like we did from one brushed stock motor to the next.....there will always be production tolerances and variances......and that's why we see stuff all over the map.....
I just couldn't help giving syndrome a hard time...our debates over these subjects go way back Fun times!
Later EddieO
M-Technic, and I know some start weaker....that's what I said 6 years ago....and 5, 4, 3 too, but the big brushless adopters of the early days maintained they were all the same and we would not see the variances like we did from one brushed stock motor to the next.....there will always be production tolerances and variances......and that's why we see stuff all over the map.....
I just couldn't help giving syndrome a hard time...our debates over these subjects go way back
Fun times!Later EddieO
06-01-2010, 05:00 PM
#23
Ok, you got me.....you didn't smile in yer post or anything, so I thought you were a dead serious brushless fanatic!
Later EddieO
Later EddieO
07-29-2010, 08:07 PM
#24
anyone tested the lrp x-12 rotors on a gauss meter?
02-10-2012, 05:14 PM
#27
I've got one of those fact machines. Very good.
Interesting to note the difference in strength for N and S showing if the rotor is balanced. Balanced is good.
I run boosted so whether the rotor is 1190 (Novak) or 1930 (Graupner) it doesn't make a huge difference to outright performance if you are able to find the ultimate timing map.
As a note my experience (in 13.5 TC) is whilst stronger magnets produce torque, they do not accept a lot of timing well, particularly at the bottom end (LRP Graupner Corally) and can get very hot indeed, and fade, so yes they're quick but you can't push them as hard. Quite the opposite view from another poster.
I've got a Corally, 4 Graupners, 3 Novaks, 2 GM's. All are very quick on all layouts over 5 min with completely different rotor strengths, provided the timing map and gearing is spot on perfect.
The Novak with its weak 1190 gauss rotor runs relatively cool and can be pushed outrageously hard in terms of the timing map..get the rip by a combination of end bell timing, gearing and midrange timing map, then the weak rotor comes into its own on the straight giving massive top end..
On paper its rubbish..but its not. Its the fastest of the lot if you get it right according to the speed gun I used. Great motor. Sometimes racing makes no sense at all
Interesting to note the difference in strength for N and S showing if the rotor is balanced. Balanced is good.
I run boosted so whether the rotor is 1190 (Novak) or 1930 (Graupner) it doesn't make a huge difference to outright performance if you are able to find the ultimate timing map.
As a note my experience (in 13.5 TC) is whilst stronger magnets produce torque, they do not accept a lot of timing well, particularly at the bottom end (LRP Graupner Corally) and can get very hot indeed, and fade, so yes they're quick but you can't push them as hard. Quite the opposite view from another poster.
I've got a Corally, 4 Graupners, 3 Novaks, 2 GM's. All are very quick on all layouts over 5 min with completely different rotor strengths, provided the timing map and gearing is spot on perfect.
The Novak with its weak 1190 gauss rotor runs relatively cool and can be pushed outrageously hard in terms of the timing map..get the rip by a combination of end bell timing, gearing and midrange timing map, then the weak rotor comes into its own on the straight giving massive top end..
On paper its rubbish..but its not. Its the fastest of the lot if you get it right according to the speed gun I used. Great motor. Sometimes racing makes no sense at all
12-06-2013, 09:56 AM
#28
Hey guys does the facts machine measure wattage output as well?
And for that matter, does the wattage output come into play when selecting your stators and rotors???
I want to get a decent measuring setup so just asking if there is any do it all type if machine that incorporates dyno, gauss, wattage, etc.
And for that matter, does the wattage output come into play when selecting your stators and rotors???
I want to get a decent measuring setup so just asking if there is any do it all type if machine that incorporates dyno, gauss, wattage, etc.
12-06-2013, 10:26 AM
#29
I will say this about the I-Gauss meter . the reading will very depending on the battery voltage . I changed my battery in mine after some use and noticed my # went up +100 points and the original battery was still good . so when checking with this unit make sure Ur reference # r done recently or same time . this way u know the #s r consistent during ur comparison
12-06-2013, 10:30 AM
#30
I realize that this is an old post but it's been brought up again so I thought I would stick out there the info that I have on the X12 motors. Keep in mind that I didn't use the same meter as others here are, in fact I used a meter that I built so the readings are on a different scale but they are repeatable using my setup so that's all I care about. These are averaged numbers for both N and S poles. All rotors were very close between the poles even the cooked stock spec rotor. Some were closer than others but not enough to note here.
Also, as others have mentioned you can't compare from brand to brand the rotor numbers are meaningless without taking into account the entire motor design. So, comparing one rotor to the next is only good with the singular motor you plan to use it in.
x12/20 rotors
12.5mm mod1 used but good-568
1s 12.25mm-465 new
1s 12.25mm-used but good 460
12.0mm works-588 (new)
12.0mm sintered, not works 513 (new)
stock spec 12.4mm -290 (overheated in 10.5)
Stock spec 12.4mm - 494 - used in good condition
13.0mm new - 600
Also, as others have mentioned you can't compare from brand to brand the rotor numbers are meaningless without taking into account the entire motor design. So, comparing one rotor to the next is only good with the singular motor you plan to use it in.
x12/20 rotors
12.5mm mod1 used but good-568
1s 12.25mm-465 new
1s 12.25mm-used but good 460
12.0mm works-588 (new)
12.0mm sintered, not works 513 (new)
stock spec 12.4mm -290 (overheated in 10.5)
Stock spec 12.4mm - 494 - used in good condition
13.0mm new - 600