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Old 06-01-2010, 08:30 AM   #16
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I have an I-Gauss and four Duo2 rotors. The strongest tested at 1425 and the weakest around 1250 (year old motor).
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Old 06-01-2010, 09:16 AM   #17
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Fading? Weren't these things supposed to last forever with no maintenance? Weren't they all supposed to be the same?

When I saw the Novak graded rotor thing, I almost fell out of my chair laughing....

Sorry, I couldn't resist.....

Later EddieO
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Old 06-01-2010, 09:20 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
I have an I-Gauss and four Duo2 rotors. The strongest tested at 1425 and the weakest around 1250 (year old motor).
will you have it with you a kissimmee
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Old 06-01-2010, 09:44 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieO View Post
Fading? Weren't these things supposed to last forever with no maintenance? Weren't they all supposed to be the same?

When I saw the Novak graded rotor thing, I almost fell out of my chair laughing....

Sorry, I couldn't resist.....

Later EddieO
Who is to say the weaker rotor didn't start weaker? There is a decent variance in brand new rotors/motors. I have gotten brand new rotors in the low 1300 range.

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will you have it with you a kissimmee
I sure will, you are welcome to use it.
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Old 06-01-2010, 11:49 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieO View Post
Fading? Weren't these things supposed to last forever with no maintenance? Weren't they all supposed to be the same?

When I saw the Novak graded rotor thing, I almost fell out of my chair laughing....

Sorry, I couldn't resist.....

Later EddieO
Its true.........they're all the same till you run them.
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Old 06-01-2010, 01:35 PM   #21
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Well, I am gonna beg to differ they are all the same till you run them. I pulled apart 10 21.5 Pulse's and the rotor strength was all over the map.....5 Novaks were the same way......if your theory was correct, how could Novak sell graded rotors? They flat out admit that anything under 1300 goes into a regular motor.....so obviously they are different before ever seeing an drop of current.


M-Technic, and I know some start weaker....that's what I said 6 years ago....and 5, 4, 3 too, but the big brushless adopters of the early days maintained they were all the same and we would not see the variances like we did from one brushed stock motor to the next.....there will always be production tolerances and variances......and that's why we see stuff all over the map.....

I just couldn't help giving syndrome a hard time...our debates over these subjects go way back Fun times!

Later EddieO
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Old 06-01-2010, 03:02 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by EddieO View Post
Well, I am gonna beg to differ they are all the same till you run them. I pulled apart 10 21.5 Pulse's and the rotor strength was all over the map.....5 Novaks were the same way......if your theory was correct, how could Novak sell graded rotors? They flat out admit that anything under 1300 goes into a regular motor.....so obviously they are different before ever seeing an drop of current.


M-Technic, and I know some start weaker....that's what I said 6 years ago....and 5, 4, 3 too, but the big brushless adopters of the early days maintained they were all the same and we would not see the variances like we did from one brushed stock motor to the next.....there will always be production tolerances and variances......and that's why we see stuff all over the map.....

I just couldn't help giving syndrome a hard time...our debates over these subjects go way back Fun times!

Later EddieO
That was a tonque in cheek statement. LOL. The only thing that is really controlable is the machined steel shaft of the rotor, of similar types. The whole process in the making of the magnet is really amazing that they can get them even realatively similar in guass readings. And thats probably why the distributers have a number range for what goes where, otherwise they would go broke. But I'm sure your'e well aware of all of this. SOOOO no argumnet here............all the same, LOL.
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Old 06-01-2010, 06:00 PM   #23
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Ok, you got me.....you didn't smile in yer post or anything, so I thought you were a dead serious brushless fanatic!

Later EddieO
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Old 07-29-2010, 09:07 PM   #24
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anyone tested the lrp x-12 rotors on a gauss meter?
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:21 AM   #25
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Thought I would see if this thread/conversation is worthy of reviving.

Anyone have any new information that they would like to share with the latest motors & rotors??? on meter vs. on track??

Thanks in advance for your reply!
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:44 AM   #26
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Default Wanna test rotors

Facts Machine for sale here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ican-case.html
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Old 02-10-2012, 06:14 PM   #27
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I've got one of those fact machines. Very good.

Interesting to note the difference in strength for N and S showing if the rotor is balanced. Balanced is good.

I run boosted so whether the rotor is 1190 (Novak) or 1930 (Graupner) it doesn't make a huge difference to outright performance if you are able to find the ultimate timing map.

As a note my experience (in 13.5 TC) is whilst stronger magnets produce torque, they do not accept a lot of timing well, particularly at the bottom end (LRP Graupner Corally) and can get very hot indeed, and fade, so yes they're quick but you can't push them as hard. Quite the opposite view from another poster.

I've got a Corally, 4 Graupners, 3 Novaks, 2 GM's. All are very quick on all layouts over 5 min with completely different rotor strengths, provided the timing map and gearing is spot on perfect.

The Novak with its weak 1190 gauss rotor runs relatively cool and can be pushed outrageously hard in terms of the timing map..get the rip by a combination of end bell timing, gearing and midrange timing map, then the weak rotor comes into its own on the straight giving massive top end..

On paper its rubbish..but its not. Its the fastest of the lot if you get it right according to the speed gun I used. Great motor. Sometimes racing makes no sense at all
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:56 AM   #28
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Hey guys does the facts machine measure wattage output as well?
And for that matter, does the wattage output come into play when selecting your stators and rotors???
I want to get a decent measuring setup so just asking if there is any do it all type if machine that incorporates dyno, gauss, wattage, etc.
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Old 12-06-2013, 11:26 AM   #29
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I will say this about the I-Gauss meter . the reading will very depending on the battery voltage . I changed my battery in mine after some use and noticed my # went up +100 points and the original battery was still good . so when checking with this unit make sure Ur reference # r done recently or same time . this way u know the #s r consistent during ur comparison
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Old 12-06-2013, 11:30 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R1wurks View Post
anyone tested the lrp x-12 rotors on a gauss meter?
I realize that this is an old post but it's been brought up again so I thought I would stick out there the info that I have on the X12 motors. Keep in mind that I didn't use the same meter as others here are, in fact I used a meter that I built so the readings are on a different scale but they are repeatable using my setup so that's all I care about. These are averaged numbers for both N and S poles. All rotors were very close between the poles even the cooked stock spec rotor. Some were closer than others but not enough to note here.

Also, as others have mentioned you can't compare from brand to brand the rotor numbers are meaningless without taking into account the entire motor design. So, comparing one rotor to the next is only good with the singular motor you plan to use it in.

x12/20 rotors
12.5mm mod1 used but good-568
1s 12.25mm-465 new
1s 12.25mm-used but good 460
12.0mm works-588 (new)
12.0mm sintered, not works 513 (new)
stock spec 12.4mm -290 (overheated in 10.5)
Stock spec 12.4mm - 494 - used in good condition
13.0mm new - 600
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