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Old 06-24-2009, 04:06 PM
  #931  
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Hells Yea!!!!! just got mine in today... too bad tho it is in other town. I will have to wait till tomarrow to get it to put it together for race this weekend....
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Old 06-24-2009, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mrrcguy
Step 08

When connecting #mold1-02-1 to mold1-01-1 (ackerman rack) use a 3x8mm screw rather than the supplied 3x6mm screw.

This will allow easy adjustment of the rack without separation of the rack due the the extra few threads.
+1

Another good idea is to glue the nut into the ackerman plate so if you do unscrew it completely it's not a PITA to get back together
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Old 06-24-2009, 05:44 PM
  #933  
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EJ...you have mail...
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Old 06-24-2009, 05:50 PM
  #934  
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anyone know where or when we could get the aluminum steering blocks i've seen in a few pictures?
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Old 06-24-2009, 07:15 PM
  #935  
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Default PHOTON BUILD TIP

Step 23

When installing the tie rods pay special attention to the direction in which to snap them on. One side of the hole is bigger than the other. Snap it on large opening first. This may seem obvious to most, but this is not covered in the manual and for some this may be their first experience with captured ball ends.
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Old 06-24-2009, 07:33 PM
  #936  
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Default Build review

Sorry no pics for now but here are my impressions from the build

The good

The CF chassis is standard but at least the weaving in the CF is straight (not always the case !!).

Nylon parts fit and finish is tamiya-like - no need to re-drill or adjust- or even shim anything !! (impressed especially about that last part).
The durability remains to be tested but the quality of nylon is superior to many brands and comparable to xray or kyosho which are the best in the market today imho.

Diff is totally amazing, large diameter rings to spread pressure.. It s X-ray like and sealed !! just awesome. Be careful when assembling the beville washers..
Front spool is super light ! Make sure you tighten the screws all the way or the front unis will rub when you assemble the front end.
We ll see about durability but it looks healthy !

Steering rack is great, very accessible if needed.. well thought out !
Remakably no play in the ball ends and cups, and no need to pop out since the cups are open. Every suspension feels light and solid at the same time.
The arms look and feel great... very tough !!

sway bar mount is very smart, and acts as the support for the screws for the shock tower. Sway bars are both same front are rear stock.

Shocks are the best.. ever.. tamiya/kyosho tf-5 stallion like.. just perfect.
built mine with zero rebound.

Lipo balancing parts are great, there is also a support for sub-c cells that is specific (nice!).

The bad

The spur gear holder, although smart because it keeps the spur assembly narrow, seems a tad flimsy. I doubt it will support several spur gear mounting/unmounting operations and i m afraid the threads in the nylon will wear out.
For me, this is THE part that might need improvement in the whole car (alum version please).

On the other hand, thank you for making it Kimbrough spurs compatible and not proprietary !

The instructions are awesome and horrible at the same time. Awesome because they are complete, detailed, with setup tips, completely precise and thorough. Horrible because they are not beginner-oriented at all since they are not completely visual. Many operations are to be READ and not SEEN.
Not a big issue for me, but dont build this as your first-ever rc car..

Overall, the car feels very nice because it does not feel like TOP cut corners, or half-baked this.
It has got everything a high end touring car needs and there is nothing that feels like "hmmm , i m not sure about this".

It is perfectly on par to a xray, a 416, or a Cyclone. You really feel like every part has been thought out and many build features are unique.

Very happy about the purchase.. let s see on track next weekend..
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Old 06-24-2009, 08:28 PM
  #937  
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Can Josh r EJ comment on the small 2.5mm top deck screws, that use a 1.5mm driver? The heads are very soft and you cant get a good torque on them, and as a result it feels like it holds a tweak in the chassis.
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Old 06-24-2009, 08:36 PM
  #938  
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Originally Posted by Patriiick
Sorry no pics for now but here are my impressions from the build

The good

The CF chassis is standard but at least the weaving in the CF is straight (not always the case !!).

Nylon parts fit and finish is tamiya-like - no need to re-drill or adjust- or even shim anything !! (impressed especially about that last part).
The durability remains to be tested but the quality of nylon is superior to many brands and comparable to xray or kyosho which are the best in the market today imho.

Diff is totally amazing, large diameter rings to spread pressure.. It s X-ray like and sealed !! just awesome. Be careful when assembling the beville washers..
Front spool is super light ! Make sure you tighten the screws all the way or the front unis will rub when you assemble the front end.
We ll see about durability but it looks healthy !

Steering rack is great, very accessible if needed.. well thought out !
Remakably no play in the ball ends and cups, and no need to pop out since the cups are open. Every suspension feels light and solid at the same time.
The arms look and feel great... very tough !!

sway bar mount is very smart, and acts as the support for the screws for the shock tower. Sway bars are both same front are rear stock.

Shocks are the best.. ever.. tamiya/kyosho tf-5 stallion like.. just perfect.
built mine with zero rebound.

Lipo balancing parts are great, there is also a support for sub-c cells that is specific (nice!).

The bad

The spur gear holder, although smart because it keeps the spur assembly narrow, seems a tad flimsy. I doubt it will support several spur gear mounting/unmounting operations and i m afraid the threads in the nylon will wear out.
For me, this is THE part that might need improvement in the whole car (alum version please).

On the other hand, thank you for making it Kimbrough spurs compatible and not proprietary !

The instructions are awesome and horrible at the same time. Awesome because they are complete, detailed, with setup tips, completely precise and thorough. Horrible because they are not beginner-oriented at all since they are not completely visual. Many operations are to be READ and not SEEN.
Not a big issue for me, but dont build this as your first-ever rc car..

Overall, the car feels very nice because it does not feel like TOP cut corners, or half-baked this.
It has got everything a high end touring car needs and there is nothing that feels like "hmmm , i m not sure about this".

It is perfectly on par to a xray, a 416, or a Cyclone. You really feel like every part has been thought out and many build features are unique.

Very happy about the purchase.. let s see on track next weekend..
Yep! Pretty much.
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Old 06-24-2009, 08:50 PM
  #939  
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Originally Posted by CraigM
+1

Another good idea is to glue the nut into the ackerman plate so if you do unscrew it completely it's not a PITA to get back together
Use rubber cement (shoe goo) C/A tends to crack.
I'm lovin' this car and I don't even have it yet.
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:26 PM
  #940  
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant
Use rubber cement (shoe goo) C/A tends to crack.
I'm lovin' this car and I don't even have it yet.
John, did you get your car yet?
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:33 PM
  #941  
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So, I just finished the shocks...



































Im fairly certain I saw God.
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Old 06-24-2009, 11:24 PM
  #942  
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Originally Posted by mrbighead
John, did you get your car yet?
Just got ordered... I hope.
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:38 AM
  #943  
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I guess it's personal preference but I think the TRF shocks are smoother and easier to build. It's a shame the TOPs are different dimensions because I wanted to use the red caps on my TRFs
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Old 06-25-2009, 06:02 AM
  #944  
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Hi Guys, whats the belt sizes front and rear?

Thanks

Ricky
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Old 06-25-2009, 06:36 AM
  #945  
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Originally Posted by prodriver
Hi Guys, whats the belt sizes front and rear?

Thanks

Ricky
Rear belt is 189mm
Front Belt is 516mm
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