vr01

The inserts are keyed, so there is no way for them to rotate inside the mount. Go back and check everything - don't worry about the fact they aren't alloy like the drawing in the manual

marcel p

its not that they spin in the mount.
but they turn with the screw about 1/6 of a turn
its not much but we were better of with inserts with a center hole i think
or ame i a tiny to precies

vr01

It could be due to translation but one minute your saying the insert is turning, the next minute your saying it doesn't... It's one or the other, but the answer is that the insert DOESN'T turn inside the mount.

If you are saying that the whole suspension mount turns slightly as you do it up, then I would say that it possible - BUT there is no way it could get to 1/6 of a turn if you have everything mounted. The suspension arm should be in place when you are doing up the screws for the suspension mounts.

Ron Goetter

iTrader: (17)

Actually i had this problem too. It was a simple solution. I was WAY over tightening them. All I needed to do was loosen the screw again then retighten them without over doing it. all is good now.

marcel p

oke thank you .
wil try tightening it les hope it wont come loose
the building is coming to an end my smile is coming back

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

Are those 416 C-hubs?

Rob Burns

iTrader: (4)

I think they're Evo 5 C-hubs. Part number is 51106 for the 2 degree. They're different to the 416WC C-hub.

John St.Amant

iTrader: (1)

If they are steel its because the aluminum ones strip out too easily or are not tough enough. From what Ive seen the inserts have two flat spots to index them to the mounts. And if you look closely you will see that the inserts are drilled off center so that there are more roll center adjustments. Make sure they are oriented correctly. Good luck my friend!.

nocif13

no tbevo4 ms

nocif13

I'm doing a report on the disappointment some changes I made I give you the link

nocif13

PICTURES OF C HUB AND STEERING bloC

Josh Cyrul

iTrader: (1)

marcel - They only turn if you really, really crank down on them. If you tighten them normal then there is absolutly no problem at all. The origional ones (prototype) were softer plastic but with the harder plastic there is no trouble - It's an electric TC, not a real car...lol... Put away the pry-bar!!

nocif - I believe the shoulder for the castor block inserts are supposed to go against the steering blocks. Why do you have the top one put in from the top side of the castor block?? Do you use a servo saver?? I did not at the Reedy Race and had no troubles but on most tracks (with boards) you need to use a servo saver. Of course, we will probably make an alloy version of this part since people are breaking them.

The inserts were made steel for two reasons - #1 The car is incredibly light so we don't need the weight saving. #2 They were a little more safe from bending/crash damage than the aluminum ones. I didn't have any trouble but EJ did when he used some titanium screws in the suspension mount inserts (aluminum ones). I think if you use the steel screws it is perfectly fine but being the low weight of the car we rather be safe. I think TOP will offer the aluminum ones as an optional part.

nocif13

josh

I do it because the plastic modification of these 2 parts for me are very fragile and bad bill for me. my opinion is to me! or nothing to say about all of the photon, I just corrected the negative 2 points that I find preferable to improve
i dont use servo saver
regards
olivier

Josh Cyrul

iTrader: (1)

I don't understand how putting the insert on the top side fixes the problem though?? Now you have a gap/play at the bottom and have to be really careful not to overtighten the ball stud and screw from binding/crushing the castor block......

I'm off to dinner... I'll be back in a bit and then back to the US tommorow.

nocif13

I USE insert and caster block tamiya ,we see a space between the two because I have not finished the wedge