3LikesTamiya TRF415
05-22-2007, 03:47 PM
Rampal;
No spacer, I just built my car as kit as kit instructions, no issues on that front.
Everyone;
Regarding the servo saver... I've been using a direct link on my car since mid way through last season, when I finally got P'd off with the slop that generates over time with the savers. So far, not knackered a single servo, and I've had some BIG hits (one even broke the chassis, and servo mount screw!). Only issue I have is occasionally, the ball joint pops off, but when that happens I just replace it.
Works for me basically
Wet setups.... if it's fully wet (ie standing water) raise the ride height, stick on some D20 wets, jobs a good un.... D20 wets generate more grip in full wet than just damp.
If it's damp, look into changing your springs and droop, or just simply lay down your front shocks, and stand up the rears. I've always found that in damp conditions, your forever looking for steering, so running a softer front spring, or even a one-way can be a good option.
Oh, and I've attached a pic of my car waterproofed from last season... full standing water, and the car just kept going... MRT's are awesome!
HiH
Ed
No spacer, I just built my car as kit as kit instructions, no issues on that front.
Everyone;
Regarding the servo saver... I've been using a direct link on my car since mid way through last season, when I finally got P'd off with the slop that generates over time with the savers. So far, not knackered a single servo, and I've had some BIG hits (one even broke the chassis, and servo mount screw!). Only issue I have is occasionally, the ball joint pops off, but when that happens I just replace it.
Works for me basically
Wet setups.... if it's fully wet (ie standing water) raise the ride height, stick on some D20 wets, jobs a good un.... D20 wets generate more grip in full wet than just damp.
If it's damp, look into changing your springs and droop, or just simply lay down your front shocks, and stand up the rears. I've always found that in damp conditions, your forever looking for steering, so running a softer front spring, or even a one-way can be a good option.
Oh, and I've attached a pic of my car waterproofed from last season... full standing water, and the car just kept going... MRT's are awesome!
HiH
Ed
05-22-2007, 06:20 PM
New belts and pullys 18t.
Hey all,
Just wanted to give you a heads up that some of the pro drivers at the Reedy will be using a new 18 tooth center pully and (longer)belts for the MRE. The word is you can run the belts looser with the 18 tooth to free up the drive train without them skipping a tooth, even with a mod motor. Of coarse this will change the FDR to 2.0 on the calculated ratio.
The material is slightly different. Looks more like delrin than the yellowish plastic one. Maybe someone can take pictures at the Reedy and post them. I think this will work on my TA05 also!
Just wanted to give you a heads up that some of the pro drivers at the Reedy will be using a new 18 tooth center pully and (longer)belts for the MRE. The word is you can run the belts looser with the 18 tooth to free up the drive train without them skipping a tooth, even with a mod motor. Of coarse this will change the FDR to 2.0 on the calculated ratio.
The material is slightly different. Looks more like delrin than the yellowish plastic one. Maybe someone can take pictures at the Reedy and post them. I think this will work on my TA05 also!
05-22-2007, 06:48 PM
As Max said, there are some pretty neat goodies. Speaking of cool stuff. A friend of mine recently returned from Japan and picked up some of these...are you kidding me? haha 
*edit* these are actually carbon printed lead weights.
*edit* these are actually carbon printed lead weights.
Last edited by rtypec; 05-22-2007 at 10:48 PM.
05-22-2007, 06:50 PM
A lot of the Tamiya drivers here are using Kimbrough Servo Savers with a lot of success.
As for a "wet" set up, I usually change to a colder compound tyre on the rear and lay the front shocks in one.
Works well, am now doing quicker laps than ever before, improved 1 second a lap (from 18 to 17) as an average since moving from the TA05 to the MSX.
As for a "wet" set up, I usually change to a colder compound tyre on the rear and lay the front shocks in one.
Works well, am now doing quicker laps than ever before, improved 1 second a lap (from 18 to 17) as an average since moving from the TA05 to the MSX.
05-22-2007, 07:58 PM
Originally Posted by rtypec
As Max said, there are some pretty neat goodies. Speaking of cool stuff. A friend of mine recently returned from Japan and picked up some of these...are you kidding me? haha
05-22-2007, 09:49 PM
Does anyone know of a place that might be still stocking the base plate/lower deck for a 415MRE?
RC Champ have sold out, haven't heard back from R10 yet, RC Mart only has the 415MSXX and Speedtech RC has none in stock.
RC Champ have sold out, haven't heard back from R10 yet, RC Mart only has the 415MSXX and Speedtech RC has none in stock.
05-22-2007, 10:16 PM
Stellamodels.net is where I got my two from 
05-22-2007, 10:49 PM
Originally Posted by nexxus
Stellamodels.net is where I got my two from
05-22-2007, 11:51 PM
Originally Posted by belgianchamp
Thx Guys 4 the short arms answers...
Eirik was Marc and Victor using the short arms last weekend in Motodrom race(Germany)????Pls post the setup when u have him!
What have they done with the front suspension block where the front belt passes??They dont used a bridge block and they cutted alu bleu away.
Eirik was Marc and Victor using the short arms last weekend in Motodrom race(Germany)????Pls post the setup when u have him!
What have they done with the front suspension block where the front belt passes??They dont used a bridge block and they cutted alu bleu away.
He will be back on Tuesday, I will give him a call then and find out what they have been running....
They where using the narrow X block's and in the front you will have to remove some material to make clearance for the steering rod.
I heard they where running really narrow cars, like 180mm or so, hmmm.
Not sure what arms they used, but I will find out.
05-23-2007, 01:09 AM
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by maxepower
Hey all,
Just wanted to give you a heads up that some of the pro drivers at the Reedy will be using a new 18 tooth center pully and (longer)belts for the MRE. The word is you can run the belts looser with the 18 tooth to free up the drive train without them skipping a tooth, even with a mod motor. Of coarse this will change the FDR to 2.0 on the calculated ratio.
The material is slightly different. Looks more like delrin than the yellowish plastic one. Maybe someone can take pictures at the Reedy and post them. I think this will work on my TA05 also!
Just wanted to give you a heads up that some of the pro drivers at the Reedy will be using a new 18 tooth center pully and (longer)belts for the MRE. The word is you can run the belts looser with the 18 tooth to free up the drive train without them skipping a tooth, even with a mod motor. Of coarse this will change the FDR to 2.0 on the calculated ratio.
The material is slightly different. Looks more like delrin than the yellowish plastic one. Maybe someone can take pictures at the Reedy and post them. I think this will work on my TA05 also!
http://www.racing11.net/shop/product...roducts_id=886
05-23-2007, 01:25 AM
Originally Posted by maxepower
Hey all,
Just wanted to give you a heads up that some of the pro drivers at the Reedy will be using a new 18 tooth center pully and (longer)belts for the MRE. The word is you can run the belts looser with the 18 tooth to free up the drive train without them skipping a tooth, even with a mod motor. Of coarse this will change the FDR to 2.0 on the calculated ratio.
The material is slightly different. Looks more like delrin than the yellowish plastic one. Maybe someone can take pictures at the Reedy and post them. I think this will work on my TA05 also!
Just wanted to give you a heads up that some of the pro drivers at the Reedy will be using a new 18 tooth center pully and (longer)belts for the MRE. The word is you can run the belts looser with the 18 tooth to free up the drive train without them skipping a tooth, even with a mod motor. Of coarse this will change the FDR to 2.0 on the calculated ratio.
The material is slightly different. Looks more like delrin than the yellowish plastic one. Maybe someone can take pictures at the Reedy and post them. I think this will work on my TA05 also!
05-23-2007, 05:14 AM
Hi, guys. My TRF ball diff have a problem i hold diff joint (L,R) but i can still rotate (loose) the diff pulley i already change diff plate, diff pulley, screw, spring, trust bearing and try to tight the screw but is not work. what should i do? Thanks
05-23-2007, 05:57 AM
perhaps the retaining nut or whatever it is called...is worn out
05-23-2007, 06:11 AM
Replace the retaining nut that the lock nut bolts into, it's in the parts bag that contains swing shaft protectors. Failing that, replace the lock nut.
05-23-2007, 06:11 AM
Originally Posted by KoE
perhaps the retaining nut or whatever it is called...is worn out
Also, the pulley will be a bit loose between the outdrives, as it is desinged to be like that. You should be able to rock it side to side slightly. If the pulley can't move, it's too tight and will affect the action of the diff.
HiH
Ed