Tamiya TRF415
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
I feel like my carpet setup got descent by the mains, literally changed the entire setup on the first 3 runs lol. I think it still needs more steering though to get the same laptimes as the XRay cars are capable of, I just had no practice before the race, so needed a smoother setup. I'll keep working on it in the next few weeks, and post it soon.
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I feel like my carpet setup got descent by the mains, literally changed the entire setup on the first 3 runs lol. I think it still needs more steering though to get the same laptimes as the XRay cars are capable of, I just had no practice before the race, so needed a smoother setup. I'll keep working on it in the next few weeks, and post it soon.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Originally Posted by TFR
How about a picture of your ride? Alway liked to see your car, alway have a clean layout.
MRE Bottom Plate (Ebay)
Originally Posted by TryHard
Well.... The main reason is, I can't get hold of an MRE plate.
The differences will be in the lay-ups. Currently (and this is only from stripping down some old tamiya carbon bits), I believe the chassis are made purely from longitudinal (0 direction) and transverse (90 direction) fibres. Also these are mainly Uni Directional (UD) fibres. The two outer plys are woven though... they are tougher (UD's can be easily split), but more expensive.
Now having a chassis made up from UD's in the 0/90 directions means that it will be very strong in thoose directions, try bending the chassis plate in only the longitudinal direction, pretty strong. Now twist it, and it's less stiff... as there are no diagonal (45/-45 direction) fibres....
My intention is to just play around with the lay-ups of the fibres, utilising some material we use at work that goes into the big wind turbine blades. It's pretty heavyweight (actually a bit heavier than I'd like... but gives enough plys to play with) UD fibre mainly in the 0, and 45/-45 directions. Also, where in the laminate the fibres go affects how much they affect the laminate.
For example, if I was to make a plate with purely 45/-45 fibres, it would be very stiff when twisted (good for foams?)... and still pretty stiff longitudinally (although probably not as good as the current chassis).
So by experimenting with all these factors, I should be able to make a chassis plate that is the same thickness, but stiffer, or thinner and the same stiffness, or just simply exactly the same as the current one.
So thats the intention... just need to get some woven fibre for the outer plys.... and get hold of the CNC maching company for cutting costs.
The differences will be in the lay-ups. Currently (and this is only from stripping down some old tamiya carbon bits), I believe the chassis are made purely from longitudinal (0 direction) and transverse (90 direction) fibres. Also these are mainly Uni Directional (UD) fibres. The two outer plys are woven though... they are tougher (UD's can be easily split), but more expensive.
Now having a chassis made up from UD's in the 0/90 directions means that it will be very strong in thoose directions, try bending the chassis plate in only the longitudinal direction, pretty strong. Now twist it, and it's less stiff... as there are no diagonal (45/-45 direction) fibres....
My intention is to just play around with the lay-ups of the fibres, utilising some material we use at work that goes into the big wind turbine blades. It's pretty heavyweight (actually a bit heavier than I'd like... but gives enough plys to play with) UD fibre mainly in the 0, and 45/-45 directions. Also, where in the laminate the fibres go affects how much they affect the laminate.
For example, if I was to make a plate with purely 45/-45 fibres, it would be very stiff when twisted (good for foams?)... and still pretty stiff longitudinally (although probably not as good as the current chassis).
So by experimenting with all these factors, I should be able to make a chassis plate that is the same thickness, but stiffer, or thinner and the same stiffness, or just simply exactly the same as the current one.
So thats the intention... just need to get some woven fibre for the outer plys.... and get hold of the CNC maching company for cutting costs.
Hope this helps Ed.
Off to Uni today guys, just thought I'd put a final quick heads up about my 415 for sale. If any ones got any questions or is interested, PM me and we'll try and work something out. I'll respond as fast as I can, but can't garauntee I won't be under the influence....
415MSX
Cheers all
D C
415MSX
Cheers all
D C
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Cheers Jun....
And Dan, good luck... I'm sure you'll love it (I know I did, some of the best and worst times of my life... all good)
And Dan, good luck... I'm sure you'll love it (I know I did, some of the best and worst times of my life... all good)
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Just finished building my MRE , the quality is so much better than the R2. The bad thing is i've got to wait a week to use it (my rubber carpet car)
Charles
Charles
Tech Champion
iTrader: (264)
Ok gentlemen. I need a little help. The car I will be running will be using the Tamiya Suspention mounts. I am not sure how many different ones there are and what the differences are. I see there is a A,B,C,D and E. I also see there is a XA,XB,XC,XD and XE. I also notice there is a 1 printed on the block also. Like 1 XA. What do all this mean? I did print out the chart on THard.co but I am still a little confused.
Originally Posted by RC Old Man
Ok gentlemen. I need a little help. The car I will be running will be using the Tamiya Suspention mounts. I am not sure how many different ones there are and what the differences are. I see there is a A,B,C,D and E. I also see there is a XA,XB,XC,XD and XE. I also notice there is a 1 printed on the block also. Like 1 XA. What do all this mean? I did print out the chart on THard.co but I am still a little confused.
see pix..
Tech Champion
iTrader: (264)
Ok that answers the A,B,C,D thing what about XA ect?
Thanks for all your help.
Where did you find that photo?
Thanks for all your help.
Where did you find that photo?
CARPET SETUPS
CAN SOMEONE DIRECT ME TO SOME CAPET SETUPS FOR THE MSX OR SHOOT ME SOME LIKS
THANKS
THANKS
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by RC Old Man
Ok that answers the A,B,C,D thing what about XA ect?
Thanks for all your help.
Where did you find that photo?
Thanks for all your help.
Where did you find that photo?
Tech Master
Originally Posted by eddie10
CAN SOMEONE DIRECT ME TO SOME CAPET SETUPS FOR THE MSX OR SHOOT ME SOME LIKS
THANKS
THANKS
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by RC Old Man
Ok that answers the A,B,C,D thing what about XA ect?
Thanks for all your help.
Where did you find that photo?
Thanks for all your help.
Where did you find that photo?
Blocks they are quite simple, honestly.
They range from widest to narrowest
E, D, C, B, A, X, XA, XB, XC, XD
and between each block is 0.5deg difference in toe-in.
This method also allows the adjustment of track width, without changing the toe setting.
Ie. a combination of XA/D gives 2.5deg of rear toe-in, as does XD/A. However the XD/A Combination results in a narrower rear track.
HiH
Ed
Tech Champion
iTrader: (264)
Thanks! It all makes sence now.