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Old 03-10-2014, 10:48 AM   #5881
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#1
this will adjust how weight is transferred front/rear and how the car twists around the center post. small changes have big benefits here. you're adjustments should be in 0.1/0.2mm differences. try the adjustments yourself -- or just stick to a 0.2mm gap and call it a day.

totally moving the dt04 collars away from the am49 will produce a ill handling, pushing car.

#2
c18 is a brace, not a top deck. again, this adjust how the car flexes. i haven't tired it, but if it like any of the braces we tried against the C02-1, it will definitely make you loose rear bite under power.
Thank you for the advice.
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:07 AM   #5882
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can anyone point me to some sort of chart or give me a reference point for the dampener and spring settings for the EVO #6 shocks that will help me get my head around what settings on this car are similar to for example and xray with 350cst oil and 2.5 springs? or even yokomo shocks with 500 cst and pink or blue springs... I am just trying to get a reference point from something I understand.

thanks so much!
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:19 PM   #5883
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Originally Posted by gocoogs View Post
can anyone point me to some sort of chart or give me a reference point for the dampener and spring settings for the EVO #6 shocks that will help me get my head around what settings on this car are similar to for example and xray with 350cst oil and 2.5 springs? or even yokomo shocks with 500 cst and pink or blue springs... I am just trying to get a reference point from something I understand.

thanks so much!

I don't know if it's still relevant, but here's what Oleg said about 2 years ago.
Quote:
Suspension stiffness in the cars of Ronald Volker and Jilles Groskamp are as follows according to my calculations:

Front suspension 87-96 gF/ mm
Rear suspension 109-116 gF/ mm
Combine that with the setup PDF and you should be able to get in that ballpark, at least for spring rate. The xray 2.5 springs are probably going to be on the softer range of those measurements.

As far as dampening, I think it's gonna be a feel thing, on the board or on the track if you're trying to get a close match.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:33 PM   #5884
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yah, i agree i will have to adjust to get the right feel... i guess i just wanted some sort of reference point that i do understand (compared to yokomo or xray) as opposed to just copying a set up sheet i find online...

thanks for the help!
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Old 03-10-2014, 02:54 PM   #5885
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Great day of racing yesterday. Ran at a local Trophy race and was able to TQ but due to a migrane i had to leave before the main. The car was awesome. I ran my FFG with a top deck and the car could do no wrong. I also had Hot lap of the day. I have to give big props to Mike Larcher Yesterday was his first day on a used ride 700L and was able to finish 4 in the show after a bump up from the B.
This car handles more like a foam sedan than any other I've driven, its very direct and I hit less stuff, still needed more wrenching time to get the full fairtrace setup on it.
Anyone have tips on a lrp flow to get stronger brakes with a 17.5?
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:48 PM   #5886
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Originally Posted by gocoogs View Post
yah, i agree i will have to adjust to get the right feel... i guess i just wanted some sort of reference point that i do understand (compared to yokomo or xray) as opposed to just copying a set up sheet i find online...

thanks for the help!
Honestly, I think the cars are SO different, it almost doesn't matter which suspension settings other cars have. I felt like I personally wasted a fair amount of time with chasing other cars. The best think I did was hit the track with two cars -- using one as a baseline, and trying to improve with another. I'd switch from car to car until one was better, and then make whole sale changes on the first car.

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This car handles more like a foam sedan than any other I've driven, its very direct and I hit less stuff, still needed more wrenching time to get the full fairtrace setup on it.
Anyone have tips on a lrp flow to get stronger brakes with a 17.5?
HUH? more brakes on an LRP? maybe try setting your end points
i find the LRP to have fantastic brakes -- and after struggling at Critters in a trophy race in Dec/Jan I made the switch to LRP before Snowbirds...
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Old 03-10-2014, 04:10 PM   #5887
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Originally Posted by erchn View Post
I don't know if it's still relevant, but here's what Oleg said about 2 years ago.
"Suspension stiffness in the cars of Ronald Volker and Jilles Groskamp are as follows according to my calculations:
Front suspension 87-96 gF/ mm
Rear suspension 109-116 gF/ mm"
It seems now that the current TC became 20-30% actually softer from those days that I made these calculations.
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Old 03-10-2014, 05:51 PM   #5888
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HUH? more brakes on an LRP? maybe try setting your end points
i find the LRP to have fantastic brakes -- and after struggling at Critters in a trophy race in Dec/Jan I made the switch to LRP before Snowbirds...
Yeah, I guess those belt cars use their drivetrain to drag the car to a stop

I did a one touch at 100%, tried drag at 4 and at 2, prefer 2 actually.
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:20 PM   #5889
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It seems now that the current TC became 20-30% actually softer from those days that I made these calculations.
i think it all depends upon the tires and grip level

rock hard tires need softer settings...
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:45 PM   #5890
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
This car handles more like a foam sedan than any other I've driven, its very direct and I hit less stuff, still needed more wrenching time to get the full fairtrace setup on it.
Anyone have tips on a lrp flow to get stronger brakes with a 17.5?
It seems odd that you're looking for more brakes - I'm not running any drag brake with my LRP Flow, and I find myself reducing the endpoints each week because the brakes are too strong.

My preferred settings for 17.5 are 0,4,0,0, and 3 for the LiPo cutoff. Modes 5 and 6 are disabled. Endpoint on the transmitter is set to 86% on an M11x.
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Last edited by oeoeo327; 03-10-2014 at 07:55 PM. Reason: Added ESC settings...
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:54 PM   #5891
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Originally Posted by Oleg Babich View Post
It seems now that the current TC became 20-30% actually softer from those days that I made these calculations.
So hypothetically speaking, let's say I wanted to calm my car down a bit for
Higher bite surfaces... On my other TCs, one way I could do that would be to increase the dampening rate (go from 350 to 450wt), but I clearly wouldn't be required to change the spring rate.

As I read the section in the manual that explains the shock settings, the "A" adjustment is used to adjust the dampening AND the spring rate simultaneously, however the "B" adjustment is used to just adjust the spring rate. So if I didn't want to adjust the spring rate, but instead just increase the dampening, would I make the "A" value larger and the "B" value smaller to reach my desired setting?

Further, using another hypothetical situation... Let's say I wanted to get a little less steering/more rear bite mid corner... One way I would get that with my normal TC would be to lay the front shocks in a hole or stand the rear shocks up a hole... But that adjustment isn't an option with this car... What might I do to have a similar affect with this car given matching front and rear suspension geometry?
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:38 AM   #5892
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Further, using another hypothetical situation... Let's say I wanted to get a little less steering/more rear bite mid corner... One way I would get that with my normal TC would be to lay the front shocks in a hole or stand the rear shocks up a hole... But that adjustment isn't an option with this car... What might I do to have a similar affect with this car given matching front and rear suspension geometry?
DARN good question, I was actually wondering about a similar theoretical myself...

Quote:
This car handles more like a foam sedan than any other I've driven, its very direct and I hit less stuff...
The very first time I had the car on the track (using the "base" setup recommended in the instruction book) it felt amazing. Same tires, body, etc... my T4'14 would "float" (not sure how else to explain it) through every corner, sometimes hugging the board, sometimes pushing out a foot or two... very inconsistent. The EVO, however, was glued - I seemed to hit every line I aimed for, every time - extremely consistent. I actually left the spring/dampening alone and just worked on my camber/caster and toe angles the entire first day of practice, and at the end of that day I was consistently .3 sec quicker than with my T4. That seems to be a pretty common phenomenon among new Awesomatix owners.
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:57 AM   #5893
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Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
It seems odd that you're looking for more brakes - I'm not running any drag brake with my LRP Flow, and I find myself reducing the endpoints each week because the brakes are too strong.

My preferred settings for 17.5 are 0,4,0,0, and 3 for the LiPo cutoff. Modes 5 and 6 are disabled. Endpoint on the transmitter is set to 86% on an M11x.
I have a Dx3r and always left throttle at 100/100, maybe it will respond better to higher endpoints, and its not that they are really bad by any means, maybe I've just been driving too much offroad where the brakes make you spin out
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:12 AM   #5894
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Originally Posted by gocoogs View Post
So hypothetically speaking, let's say I wanted to calm my car down a bit for
Higher bite surfaces... On my other TCs, one way I could do that would be to increase the dampening rate (go from 350 to 450wt), but I clearly wouldn't be required to change the spring rate.

As I read the section in the manual that explains the shock settings, the "A" adjustment is used to adjust the dampening AND the spring rate simultaneously, however the "B" adjustment is used to just adjust the spring rate. So if I didn't want to adjust the spring rate, but instead just increase the dampening, would I make the "A" value larger and the "B" value smaller to reach my desired setting?

Further, using another hypothetical situation... Let's say I wanted to get a little less steering/more rear bite mid corner... One way I would get that with my normal TC would be to lay the front shocks in a hole or stand the rear shocks up a hole... But that adjustment isn't an option with this car... What might I do to have a similar affect with this car given matching front and rear suspension geometry?
You can change damping only by using the editable set up sheet. Put in your current shock settings and take a note of the wheel rate. Now put in the new damping value and change the spring value until you reach the same wheel rate as before. By doing this you have changed the damping only and the spring should remain constant.

Laying a shock down is like going to a slightly softer spring and damping rate. You can achieve this by changing the damping value only and leaving the spring as is. However this isn't a direct translation, I find the damping change is greater than the spring change so you may have to tweak both to get the desired result.
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:19 AM   #5895
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I felt lost in setting up the car after converting to FFG...before with traverse mount motor, with the AM19 on 4 corners mounting the links at the outside holes and using the recommended setup the car ran quite good on my track which is outdoor aspault with good grip and wide bends. However, once converted to ffg, again following the recommened setup at first, the car became so understeer at mid corner that i had to let it roll all the way through the corner. Then I began to change the A and B position but now i found myself even more lost. Any help appreciated
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