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Old 12-07-2004, 06:25 AM
  #1861  
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JBrake - Depends on when the new parts come in, hopefully really soon!!

Tom V - Yep, Associated oil, I used double pink in the rear double pink orange in the front. Xray actually makes a very long aluminum ball stud for that camber link position.
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Old 12-07-2004, 06:50 AM
  #1862  
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Josh, our local track has moved and now has a carpet track under construction. The guy that is going to be setting up the track tried contacting you to get info on installation of the barriers. If you could, would you email me the info and I can forward the email. Include how you mounted (only velcro?), what material you used for the "bumpers" and how to fasten them, and any other trick/tops you have. I know you are a busy man, so if you can, thanks alot!
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Old 12-07-2004, 07:19 AM
  #1863  
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Thank you for your answers. One more.

The new sheet does not list how far back to put the rear arm. Your previous national sheet says max, with the 6mm box checked. Are we to place both spacers in front of the arm to move the arm back the maximum, or just place the 6mm spacer in front of the arm, with the smaller spacer behind.
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Old 12-07-2004, 08:05 AM
  #1864  
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Josh did you ever try the red spring setup you were on about at cleveland???? You know the one you wanted to try from yuour fuely car idea.

John
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Old 12-07-2004, 08:08 AM
  #1865  
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Originally posted by Josh Cyrul
kid - The camber is what gives you the traction in the corner when the car rolls - if you run less camber, then you are on more of the orange which will cause the car to push....
Thanks for answering my question and congrat on David's victory at the 1:12 BRCA Plymouth Nationals.
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Old 12-07-2004, 02:19 PM
  #1866  
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Josh you are one hell of a driver and a great inspiration to many of us racers. Keep up the good work. Is there a problem with the CEFX.net website as I cannot log on from 2 different computers. I wanted to peek at your Cleveland set-up for 1/10th. Thanks.
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Old 12-07-2004, 05:19 PM
  #1867  
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Josh I got my T1 pretty much there, I am just curious to what rear camber link location you like best. I have tried all of em. Long, short with new peices up an down, and I find the shorter seems better, but which is faster! lol... let me know what you think?
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Old 12-07-2004, 08:22 PM
  #1868  
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Rob - Go to www.cefx.net and the contact page and send me an e-mail....

Tom - They really messed up the set-up sheet I sent in...lol.. I used the max wheel base setting.

John - I tried it but it understeered too much into the corner - it had great on-throttle steering though. I tried it in the 2nd round of qualification at Cleveland but it was just too lazy through the chicanes....

kid - Thanks!!

Jamie - Thanks!! The site I guess was down but it's back up and running now. I don't have the set-up posted on the site as of yet but I will get to that soon.

Corey - I like the short links down. Faster, I don't know but it's what I prefered when I tested.....
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Old 12-08-2004, 07:50 AM
  #1869  
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Josh, I want to try out your Nats setup for 19T/foam, but can I do it to a "T" aside from the battery layout? I'm using a BMI 350 chassis. I assume that the 70wt/35wt oil you used is still Associated? Thanks in advanced! Tommy
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Old 12-08-2004, 10:39 AM
  #1870  
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Hey Josh:
Here's one that I was asked, and didn't know how to answer it. "How does the position, forward or back, and the angle of the shock effect handling?"
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Old 12-08-2004, 03:19 PM
  #1871  
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Originally posted by Josh Cyrul
Rob - Go to www.cefx.net and the contact page and send me an e-mail....

Tom - They really messed up the set-up sheet I sent in...lol.. I used the max wheel base setting.

John - I tried it but it understeered too much into the corner - it had great on-throttle steering though. I tried it in the 2nd round of qualification at Cleveland but it was just too lazy through the chicanes....

kid - Thanks!!

Jamie - Thanks!! The site I guess was down but it's back up and running now. I don't have the set-up posted on the site as of yet but I will get to that soon.

Corey - I like the short links down. Faster, I don't know but it's what I prefered when I tested.....
Hey Josh,

You said this in response to a question I asked earlier:

trackdesigner71 - We are testing the 1/12 oval car again. I built it back up today and as we are starting to run oval now at Halo I can test it to get it ready for this years Snowbirds. We won't be doing 1/10 cars though... More info on that one later...

Now does that mean that you picked up a new sponsor for racign 1/10 pan cars or does XRAY have something nice up their sleeve? Or is that a company secret...
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Old 12-08-2004, 08:56 PM
  #1872  
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kid - It is Asc oil and you can run the set-up with the batteries in the standard position instead of moved up like mine - you will loose some steering though....

Darryl - Moving the shocks forward or back changes the spring base (I don't know the technical term). Basically, while the roll would remain the same, if you moved the front shocks .5" farther forward, you would reduce front dive as the pitch of the chassis would have a greater effect on the shock travel. That's why 2wd off-road cars have the shocks in front of the rear arms as they want a shorter spring base to gain more rear traction - more transfer under acceleration. You wouldn't get that if the shocks were on the back side of the a-arms like a TC...... Other wise, you always want the shocks to be 90 degrees to the a-arms - including if you are running anti-squat or anti-dive.....

trackdesigner71 - Actually, I will be using a Custom Works 1/10 oval car at this years Snowbirds. This way CEFX can focus our effort on the 1/12 cars and bodies for the 2005 season.
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Old 12-09-2004, 07:42 AM
  #1873  
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Originally posted by Josh Cyrul
Darryl - ...... Other wise, you always want the shocks to be 90 degrees to the a-arms - including if you are running anti-squat or anti-dive.....

Randy - Dremel the rear a-arm and then re-drill the hole so the threads are deep enough.
Josh, I tried the rear a-arm dremel tip you gave Randy in order to avoid 28mm rims from rubbing the shock end. But as stated to Darryl, how do you keep your shocks at 90*? Mine looks like it leans back another 4* or so.
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Old 12-09-2004, 10:08 AM
  #1874  
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Originally posted by Josh Cyrul
kid - It is Asc oil and you can run the set-up with the batteries in the standard position instead of moved up like mine - you will loose some steering though....

Darryl - Moving the shocks forward or back changes the spring base (I don't know the technical term). Basically, while the roll would remain the same, if you moved the front shocks .5" farther forward, you would reduce front dive as the pitch of the chassis would have a greater effect on the shock travel. That's why 2wd off-road cars have the shocks in front of the rear arms as they want a shorter spring base to gain more rear traction - more transfer under acceleration. You wouldn't get that if the shocks were on the back side of the a-arms like a TC...... Other wise, you always want the shocks to be 90 degrees to the a-arms - including if you are running anti-squat or anti-dive.....

trackdesigner71 - Actually, I will be using a Custom Works 1/10 oval car at this years Snowbirds. This way CEFX can focus our effort on the 1/12 cars and bodies for the 2005 season.
Hey Josh can u PM me Takei email, I lost all my emails, thanks later.
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Old 12-09-2004, 08:00 PM
  #1875  
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kid - Are you running the long wheel base setting?? When the car is in long wheel base then the shocks are about right....

Chris - E-mail me and I'll forward it to you...
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