Community
Wiki Posts
Search

TAMIYA F103 RM

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-19-2009, 02:55 AM
  #1201  
Tech Addict
 
TitaniumR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Singapore
Posts: 534
Default

Originally Posted by mok
the F103R (15th version) has the o-ring suspension so you wont find it on your chassis... but they'd be in the same place as the o-ring suspension is now
Ok Thanks mok. Can you share how you set tweak?
TitaniumR is offline  
Old 01-19-2009, 09:15 AM
  #1202  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,919
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Anyone have a line on:

Tamiya F103 Friction Damper Post & Pole 9805525

I need 2 of the poles. I've upgraded so much I'm putting together 2 spare chassis.
liljohn1064 is offline  
Old 01-19-2009, 09:20 AM
  #1203  
Tech Adept
 
gto0209's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Earth
Posts: 143
Default

John, 3 racing makes a blue aluminum one. Check rcmart or stella models. I also found where the old hot bodies sauber style molds went, Corally! and the bodies are only like 17 bucks! woot woot.

C
gto0209 is offline  
Old 01-19-2009, 09:23 AM
  #1204  
Tech Rookie
 
bowlcutboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2
Default

Originally Posted by liljohn1064
Anyone have a line on:

Tamiya F103 Friction Damper Post & Pole 9805525
Tamiya still carries it:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=9805525
bowlcutboy is offline  
Old 01-19-2009, 09:27 AM
  #1205  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,919
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gto0209
John, 3 racing makes a blue aluminum one. Check rcmart or stella models. I also found where the old hot bodies sauber style molds went, Corally! and the bodies are only like 17 bucks! woot woot.

C
NICE find on the bodies! I ordered 2 of the aluminum poles for the cars, I needed those too. I need the silly steel post that part slides over. The pole is the part that threads into the upper deck and post slides over that.
liljohn1064 is offline  
Old 01-19-2009, 09:29 AM
  #1206  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,919
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bowlcutboy
I have the part number written down. I'll check with the LHS to see if they get a price break. Much Hobby had them in stock but is currently out for $3.50 each.
liljohn1064 is offline  
Old 01-19-2009, 03:01 PM
  #1207  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 8,201
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gto0209
Whoa! switched to the o-ring suspension today and holy crap it drives better, but has more of a push where as the pivot ball has a tendency to load up and transfer all of the weight at once, which ca lead to to the dreaded hook or on power pull. In my opinion the o ring rear susp. is more predictable. Rob how does your car drive with the new chassis from ebay?
I did not put it on yet since I want to stay TCS legal for now. I'll bring the chassis with me if you want to check it out.

I agree with you that the pivot ball can feel strange, but a lot of that is gotten rid of when you do a few things to tune it. The biggest things were tweak screws, removing the washer the instructions tell you to use to space down the t bar (raise rear roll center), and finding the right grease for the damper. You can also put a bushing or washers on the damper post to control how far the car rolls as well. That helps a lot.
robk is offline  
Old 01-19-2009, 03:59 PM
  #1208  
Tech Adept
 
gto0209's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Earth
Posts: 143
Default

Even with the thickest diff oil I could find on the damper, and tweak screws, I could still not get it to handle to my likings on our tight track. I started with the low roll center from the getgo . I guess I am just more accustomed to the o-ring because that is what my kyosho had and I already knew how to tune it good
gto0209 is offline  
Old 01-19-2009, 07:36 PM
  #1209  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
 
414MPH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 989
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by robk
I did not put it on yet since I want to stay TCS legal for now.

You can also put a bushing or washers on the damper post to control how far the car rolls as well. That helps a lot.
I don't think bushings or washers fit the "TCS Legal" rules......

Car King?
414MPH is offline  
Old 01-19-2009, 08:42 PM
  #1210  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 538
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Guys/gals,

Is there any 103rm FAQ and list of "must haves" and "nice to haves" for a 103rm for beginners to read up on to get up to speed (literally!)? Perhaps something like rc-mini.net for the minis?

thanks!

Last edited by stocker; 01-20-2009 at 01:20 AM.
stocker is offline  
Old 01-20-2009, 01:15 AM
  #1211  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
 
VooDooPH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Philippines
Posts: 3,715
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by stocker
Guys/gals,

Is there any 103rm FAQ and list of "must haves" and "nice to haves" for a 103rm for beginners to read up on to get up to speed (literally!)?

thanks!

back here the fast guys are running their kits bone stock.


its us slower guys blinging out our kits so we can go down in style!
VooDooPH is offline  
Old 01-20-2009, 04:07 AM
  #1212  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 538
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by VooDooPH
back here the fast guys are running their kits bone stock.


its us slower guys blinging out our kits so we can go down in style!
I see quite a few differences between the 103RM and the 103R. I do not need bling, but which of the hop ups are needed to bring the RM to the R level for club level asphalt, or is it already?
stocker is offline  
Old 01-20-2009, 04:23 AM
  #1213  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Rogier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Netherlands, EUROPE
Posts: 672
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by stocker
I see quite a few differences between the 103RM and the 103R. I do not need bling, but which of the hop ups are needed to bring the RM to the R level for club level asphalt, or is it already?
I would absolutely recommend the alloy diff.... the plastic kit version is kind harsh. Also the TRF damper is a real addition IMHO.
Rogier is offline  
Old 01-20-2009, 06:42 AM
  #1214  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (51)
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: VA
Posts: 4,192
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by stocker
Guys/gals,

Is there any 103rm FAQ and list of "must haves" and "nice to haves" for a 103rm for beginners to read up on to get up to speed (literally!)? Perhaps something like rc-mini.net for the minis?

thanks!
If you got the RM I'd pick up the following (for both surfaces):

53150 - RC F1 Turnbuckle > (stronger steering rods)
50473 - High Torque Servo Saver > (stronger, quicker more reliable steering)
53901 - RC TRF Special Damper (Center Shock Kit) > (more tuneable than stock shock)
53902 - RC F103GT Aluminum Motor Mount > (for heat dissipation)
54127 - RC F103 Rear Carbon Axle > (less rolling resistance)

For carpet:
54801 - RC F103 Carbon Upper Deck - (Long) > (makes chassis nice and stiff for carpet)

Also, I thought the diff that comes with the RM is alloy?
Apex is offline  
Old 01-20-2009, 08:10 AM
  #1215  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 8,201
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 414MPH
I don't think bushings or washers fit the "TCS Legal" rules......

Car King?
If they are Tamiya??
robk is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.