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Old 01-19-2009, 03:55 AM   #1201
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the F103R (15th version) has the o-ring suspension so you wont find it on your chassis... but they'd be in the same place as the o-ring suspension is now
Ok Thanks mok. Can you share how you set tweak?
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Old 01-19-2009, 10:15 AM   #1202
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Anyone have a line on:

Tamiya F103 Friction Damper Post & Pole 9805525

I need 2 of the poles. I've upgraded so much I'm putting together 2 spare chassis.
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Old 01-19-2009, 10:20 AM   #1203
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John, 3 racing makes a blue aluminum one. Check rcmart or stella models. I also found where the old hot bodies sauber style molds went, Corally! and the bodies are only like 17 bucks! woot woot.

C
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Old 01-19-2009, 10:23 AM   #1204
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Anyone have a line on:

Tamiya F103 Friction Damper Post & Pole 9805525
Tamiya still carries it:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=9805525
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Old 01-19-2009, 10:27 AM   #1205
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John, 3 racing makes a blue aluminum one. Check rcmart or stella models. I also found where the old hot bodies sauber style molds went, Corally! and the bodies are only like 17 bucks! woot woot.

C
NICE find on the bodies! I ordered 2 of the aluminum poles for the cars, I needed those too. I need the silly steel post that part slides over. The pole is the part that threads into the upper deck and post slides over that.
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Old 01-19-2009, 10:29 AM   #1206
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I have the part number written down. I'll check with the LHS to see if they get a price break. Much Hobby had them in stock but is currently out for $3.50 each.
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Old 01-19-2009, 04:01 PM   #1207
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Whoa! switched to the o-ring suspension today and holy crap it drives better, but has more of a push where as the pivot ball has a tendency to load up and transfer all of the weight at once, which ca lead to to the dreaded hook or on power pull. In my opinion the o ring rear susp. is more predictable. Rob how does your car drive with the new chassis from ebay?
I did not put it on yet since I want to stay TCS legal for now. I'll bring the chassis with me if you want to check it out.

I agree with you that the pivot ball can feel strange, but a lot of that is gotten rid of when you do a few things to tune it. The biggest things were tweak screws, removing the washer the instructions tell you to use to space down the t bar (raise rear roll center), and finding the right grease for the damper. You can also put a bushing or washers on the damper post to control how far the car rolls as well. That helps a lot.
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Old 01-19-2009, 04:59 PM   #1208
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Even with the thickest diff oil I could find on the damper, and tweak screws, I could still not get it to handle to my likings on our tight track. I started with the low roll center from the getgo . I guess I am just more accustomed to the o-ring because that is what my kyosho had and I already knew how to tune it good
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Old 01-19-2009, 08:36 PM   #1209
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I did not put it on yet since I want to stay TCS legal for now.

You can also put a bushing or washers on the damper post to control how far the car rolls as well. That helps a lot.
I don't think bushings or washers fit the "TCS Legal" rules......

Car King?
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Old 01-19-2009, 09:42 PM   #1210
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Guys/gals,

Is there any 103rm FAQ and list of "must haves" and "nice to haves" for a 103rm for beginners to read up on to get up to speed (literally!)? Perhaps something like rc-mini.net for the minis?

thanks!

Last edited by stocker; 01-20-2009 at 02:20 AM.
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Old 01-20-2009, 02:15 AM   #1211
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Guys/gals,

Is there any 103rm FAQ and list of "must haves" and "nice to haves" for a 103rm for beginners to read up on to get up to speed (literally!)?

thanks!

back here the fast guys are running their kits bone stock.


its us slower guys blinging out our kits so we can go down in style!
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Old 01-20-2009, 05:07 AM   #1212
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back here the fast guys are running their kits bone stock.


its us slower guys blinging out our kits so we can go down in style!
I see quite a few differences between the 103RM and the 103R. I do not need bling, but which of the hop ups are needed to bring the RM to the R level for club level asphalt, or is it already?
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Old 01-20-2009, 05:23 AM   #1213
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I see quite a few differences between the 103RM and the 103R. I do not need bling, but which of the hop ups are needed to bring the RM to the R level for club level asphalt, or is it already?
I would absolutely recommend the alloy diff.... the plastic kit version is kind harsh. Also the TRF damper is a real addition IMHO.
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:42 AM   #1214
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Originally Posted by stocker View Post
Guys/gals,

Is there any 103rm FAQ and list of "must haves" and "nice to haves" for a 103rm for beginners to read up on to get up to speed (literally!)? Perhaps something like rc-mini.net for the minis?

thanks!
If you got the RM I'd pick up the following (for both surfaces):

53150 - RC F1 Turnbuckle > (stronger steering rods)
50473 - High Torque Servo Saver > (stronger, quicker more reliable steering)
53901 - RC TRF Special Damper (Center Shock Kit) > (more tuneable than stock shock)
53902 - RC F103GT Aluminum Motor Mount > (for heat dissipation)
54127 - RC F103 Rear Carbon Axle > (less rolling resistance)

For carpet:
54801 - RC F103 Carbon Upper Deck - (Long) > (makes chassis nice and stiff for carpet)

Also, I thought the diff that comes with the RM is alloy?
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Old 01-20-2009, 09:10 AM   #1215
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I don't think bushings or washers fit the "TCS Legal" rules......

Car King?
If they are Tamiya??
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