23T motor thread
#631
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by dontfeelcold
so you are crushing the brushoods so that you get alot better contact between the hoods and the brush, any other tricks?
so you are crushing the brushoods so that you get alot better contact between the hoods and the brush, any other tricks?
since the brush is about 3.8mm wide for Standup brushes...and when you get the motor new most of the hoods are in the 3.95+~4.1mm range there is a little bit of work to be done there..
as far as other tricks...yes there is a bunch more...but I will post some more after some people have tried these and shown gains..
-Dave
#632
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by jedi
Hi Dave! I align my brushes the same way you do except I use a Big Jim alignment bar instead of something similar to the one you use, which I also have or had and lost. Will get back to you on Monday regarding the motors.
Hi Dave! I align my brushes the same way you do except I use a Big Jim alignment bar instead of something similar to the one you use, which I also have or had and lost. Will get back to you on Monday regarding the motors.
-Dave
#633
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
hey JDM,
i just got my Luna stc-s glory and atlas progress.
the luna came with a spare arm in it... and i had a MVP stock motor so i dropped in the arm and shimmed it in the center... but it doesnt go anywhere near aswell as the actual luna does...
what do i have to do to it??? do i advance timing or decrease or anything
the MVP can is indentical to the luna... without the fancy pink haha
so if you could point me in the right direction with that.... it would be good
thanx
robbie
i just got my Luna stc-s glory and atlas progress.
the luna came with a spare arm in it... and i had a MVP stock motor so i dropped in the arm and shimmed it in the center... but it doesnt go anywhere near aswell as the actual luna does...
what do i have to do to it??? do i advance timing or decrease or anything
the MVP can is indentical to the luna... without the fancy pink haha
so if you could point me in the right direction with that.... it would be good
thanx
robbie
#634
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
also, i read a few posts before and u said to pull up the tab inside the brush hoods...
what does that do??? does it give more power/rpm or anything???
and how far up should it come? i imagine it would make the brushes hard to push in/out if it were up to far
thanx again
robbie
what does that do??? does it give more power/rpm or anything???
and how far up should it come? i imagine it would make the brushes hard to push in/out if it were up to far
thanx again
robbie
#635
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by xray racer
also, i read a few posts before and u said to pull up the tab inside the brush hoods...
what does that do??? does it give more power/rpm or anything???
and how far up should it come? i imagine it would make the brushes hard to push in/out if it were up to far
thanx again
robbie
also, i read a few posts before and u said to pull up the tab inside the brush hoods...
what does that do??? does it give more power/rpm or anything???
and how far up should it come? i imagine it would make the brushes hard to push in/out if it were up to far
thanx again
robbie
-Dave
#636
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by xray racer
hey JDM,
i just got my Luna stc-s glory and atlas progress.
the MVP can is indentical to the luna... without the fancy pink haha
hey JDM,
i just got my Luna stc-s glory and atlas progress.
the MVP can is indentical to the luna... without the fancy pink haha
-Dave
#638
Question
I got a Tamiya Type S, to use in my 2wd Buggy(BK2).
I replaced the bushings with bearings and remove the lock so I could Adjust the timing.
My question is:
What other timing should I start with aside from the standard 24degrees lock timing?
If anyone is using a 23t on their 2wd buggies, what pinion will I use?
Has anyone tried using laydown on the other side and standard brush hoods on the other? What does this do?
Thanks - Lem
I replaced the bushings with bearings and remove the lock so I could Adjust the timing.
My question is:
What other timing should I start with aside from the standard 24degrees lock timing?
If anyone is using a 23t on their 2wd buggies, what pinion will I use?
Has anyone tried using laydown on the other side and standard brush hoods on the other? What does this do?
Thanks - Lem
#639
Tamiya RR versus S
Can anybody say what the difference between these motors are in terms of the way they are built except for the can color and openings? I have a lot of these motors and they all seem to run hot. Anybody have a good brush recommendation?
#640
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Dave,
there are so many 23t motors on the market actually, I would like very much to buy one or two to try.
Which motor do you recommend ?
Should I buy Team Luna, Orion, Yokomo,...
There are so many references, please suggest 2.
What brushes should I buy ?
Thanks for your help.
there are so many 23t motors on the market actually, I would like very much to buy one or two to try.
Which motor do you recommend ?
Should I buy Team Luna, Orion, Yokomo,...
There are so many references, please suggest 2.
What brushes should I buy ?
Thanks for your help.
#641
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by Ralf
Dave,
there are so many 23t motors on the market actually, I would like very much to buy one or two to try.
Which motor do you recommend ?
Should I buy Team Luna, Orion, Yokomo,...
There are so many references, please suggest 2.
What brushes should I buy ?
Thanks for your help.
Dave,
there are so many 23t motors on the market actually, I would like very much to buy one or two to try.
Which motor do you recommend ?
Should I buy Team Luna, Orion, Yokomo,...
There are so many references, please suggest 2.
What brushes should I buy ?
Thanks for your help.
-Dave
#642
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Any of the New Yokomo Based (2004 models) are simply awesome.... Also the newer TOP Based ones are Nice also(Orion's KATANA based motors)... but it seems the 3 port 3mm core ( TQ based Rotor ) Seem to be really good... or the 4mm core 6port Rotor..works well also.
-Dave
Any of the New Yokomo Based (2004 models) are simply awesome.... Also the newer TOP Based ones are Nice also(Orion's KATANA based motors)... but it seems the 3 port 3mm core ( TQ based Rotor ) Seem to be really good... or the 4mm core 6port Rotor..works well also.
-Dave
thanks for the info, but I don't know them at all.
Can you be helpful and give the exact model - reference ?
What about the brushes, which one should I buy ?
thanks
#643
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by Ralf
Hi Dave,
thanks for the info, but I don't know them at all.
Can you be helpful and give the exact model - reference ?
What about the brushes, which one should I buy ?
thanks
Hi Dave,
thanks for the info, but I don't know them at all.
Can you be helpful and give the exact model - reference ?
What about the brushes, which one should I buy ?
thanks
ST (standup TQ)
SR (standup RPM)
LT (laydown TQ)
For the ORION Katana's
TS(standup TQ)
SS(standup RPM)
and the Brushes that come with the New 2004 models are very good...they don"t need to be changed out
-Dave
#645
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by tamiyadriver
het Dave.. any ideas on the "new" 23T Tamiya motor spec'd for the TCS nationals? i just wonder what tuning can be done to them. the one for F201 has standups, and sedan GT1 uses laydowns. the site says that they are new motors to be introduced at the finals.
het Dave.. any ideas on the "new" 23T Tamiya motor spec'd for the TCS nationals? i just wonder what tuning can be done to them. the one for F201 has standups, and sedan GT1 uses laydowns. the site says that they are new motors to be introduced at the finals.
as Far as the RZ laydown RPM motor... I have only 3 packs on this one.. so it"s still a bit green... but it has a good ammount of RPM..similar to the Yokomo LR
-Dave