288LikesTamiya mini cooper
10-04-2011, 11:40 AM
Hey guys,
I noticed a while back some posting about the "ring of death" that occurs on the mini front tyres with the standard links, and if there's any way to stop it. Well, I thought I'd pass on this tip given to me a while ago.
Basically, you make some adjustable upper links for the front of the car
What you need are;
TAM53892 3x10mm turnbuckle shaft
TAM53662 TT01 turnbuckle tie-rod set
Then you need to take the 4 of the 5mm connectors from the TT01 set, and remove from the end 3mm of material. Then thread in the 10mm turnbuckles, and waa-la, you have a very short adjustable upper link. Set the overall length of the link to 24mm, and you'll still have a ~1° negative camber when the car is on the ground, although this can be altered a little if you cut off more of the connector joint. Then just mount the link up using the ball connectors supplied in the TT01 set, and your good to go. (pic 1)
Having the longer front link removes most of the negative camber present on the front, this is pretty much the big contributor to the very biased front tyre wear. I've attached a pic showing how the my new front S-Grips are wearing... with the normal setup, you'd expect most of the inside treads to be worn. However, with the longer front link, the wear is smack down the middle of the tyre
Another good thing is this aids forward traction, simply as the tyre is more upright when in use, meaning more the contact patch can be used for acceleration. A benefit for sure with a FWD. In my eyes though, the bigger benefit is the more even wear, so longer life from the tyres
I've also done this to the rear of my car too, can't stand having loads on the rear... I didn't cut down the connectors thoguh, just have screwed the tunbuckle up tight. As I have an M03-R, I also have the 1.5° toe in uprights, which offer two positions for the link, so I'm going to try running it in the lower position sooner... should make the car less likely to snap on the rear.
Moving on, had a good little run just now with the mini in the parking lot outside my house. 20mins of blasting around on one pack can't be beaten
. Only downside is I had an arguement with a kerb, so the Sqaure front bumper is now in 5 pieces (third pic) 
I'll make up a new bit with a flat carbon plate, so shouldn't be too much of an issue.
Regards
Ed
I noticed a while back some posting about the "ring of death" that occurs on the mini front tyres with the standard links, and if there's any way to stop it. Well, I thought I'd pass on this tip given to me a while ago.
Basically, you make some adjustable upper links for the front of the car
What you need are;
TAM53892 3x10mm turnbuckle shaft
TAM53662 TT01 turnbuckle tie-rod set
Then you need to take the 4 of the 5mm connectors from the TT01 set, and remove from the end 3mm of material. Then thread in the 10mm turnbuckles, and waa-la, you have a very short adjustable upper link. Set the overall length of the link to 24mm, and you'll still have a ~1° negative camber when the car is on the ground, although this can be altered a little if you cut off more of the connector joint. Then just mount the link up using the ball connectors supplied in the TT01 set, and your good to go. (pic 1)
Having the longer front link removes most of the negative camber present on the front, this is pretty much the big contributor to the very biased front tyre wear. I've attached a pic showing how the my new front S-Grips are wearing... with the normal setup, you'd expect most of the inside treads to be worn. However, with the longer front link, the wear is smack down the middle of the tyre
Another good thing is this aids forward traction, simply as the tyre is more upright when in use, meaning more the contact patch can be used for acceleration. A benefit for sure with a FWD. In my eyes though, the bigger benefit is the more even wear, so longer life from the tyres
I've also done this to the rear of my car too, can't stand having loads on the rear... I didn't cut down the connectors thoguh, just have screwed the tunbuckle up tight. As I have an M03-R, I also have the 1.5° toe in uprights, which offer two positions for the link, so I'm going to try running it in the lower position sooner... should make the car less likely to snap on the rear.
Moving on, had a good little run just now with the mini in the parking lot outside my house. 20mins of blasting around on one pack can't be beaten
. Only downside is I had an arguement with a kerb, so the Sqaure front bumper is now in 5 pieces (third pic) I'll make up a new bit with a flat carbon plate, so shouldn't be too much of an issue.Regards
Ed
Assuming that no cutting is involved-would this "upgrade" be TCS legal?
10-04-2011, 12:36 PM
Tamiya makes an adjustable upper arm set for M chassis already. (54182) Why not just use that? It will work with M-03 and M-05.
10-04-2011, 12:52 PM
10-04-2011, 01:13 PM
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Why is this man talking to a Frog? Perhaps the heat in Singapore finally got to him?
Read Tims full report on the Tamiya Asia Cup Finals, written as only Tim can...HERE.
Read Tims full report on the Tamiya Asia Cup Finals, written as only Tim can...HERE.
10-04-2011, 03:26 PM
That pretty much kills it.
10-04-2011, 06:02 PM
does anyone know if for, USA TCS, the roll cage is require on the M05??
I didn't see anything that specifically said it was forbidden, but then again....
I didn't see anything that specifically said it was forbidden, but then again....
10-04-2011, 06:14 PM
Its the first sentence in the chassis rule. You cannot alter the design or structure of the chassis in any way. I built my car without it not to save weight but, because I think it looks cooler. Then I read the rules. The transponder stay is optional though. Also if your planning on taping your batteries in you need use the lightweight aluminum battery mounts. Taping is required.
10-05-2011, 07:29 AM
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Droop settings
May be an idiot question ,but anyone try to control the diffing out of the mini useing droop?
And I think the rule on tape only on the alum batt mounts is ludicrus.WTH--
And I think the rule on tape only on the alum batt mounts is ludicrus.WTH--
10-05-2011, 08:17 AM
Its the first sentence in the chassis rule. You cannot alter the design or structure of the chassis in any way. I built my car without it not to save weight but, because I think it looks cooler. Then I read the rules. The transponder stay is optional though. Also if your planning on taping your batteries in you need use the lightweight aluminum battery mounts. Taping is required.
as far as the taping rules, didn't see them at all - I know it was mentioned in the article Tony grey posted, but i understood that was for Singapore only..I use the battery holders, anyways...
and of course, the TCS rules aren't available on Tamiya's site right now to double check my blindness
10-05-2011, 08:37 AM
Go to tamiyausa and all the way down is the link.
I'm just assuming about taping in batteries. Removing the plastic ones is altering the design.
I'm just assuming about taping in batteries. Removing the plastic ones is altering the design.
10-05-2011, 12:01 PM
Read Tims full report on the Tamiya Asia Cup Finals, written as only Tim can...HERE.
The rules in Switzerland at the Euro Finals 3 weeks ago were simple & fiercely enforced. Ra mini parts were not allowed. Right part for right car, including diffs having to be correct - MO5 ball or gear. The tires were also control so no choices. This made things very simple and even.
Cars were stripped completely by tech after all rounds (randomly and leaders), if you were unlucky you could be rebuilding your car a few times a day. Tech were precise down to no shims if the manual didn't have any. There were complaints but it keeps things even and was appreciated by all in the end.
10-05-2011, 12:12 PM
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And this is precisley what Tims Postscript at the bottom of the article is talking about.
Different rules, different interpretations, all over the world. And if you somehow make it through to the finals in Japan, it's all different again!
I'm actually glad TCS in Australia got canned all those years ago, I think we're better off without it.
Different rules, different interpretations, all over the world. And if you somehow make it through to the finals in Japan, it's all different again!
I'm actually glad TCS in Australia got canned all those years ago, I think we're better off without it.
10-05-2011, 12:25 PM
Yes, but my reply was meant in a more positive view...
As it is, worst case its 4 diff series (US,EU, SEA, JP) and only the 1st placers in selected chassis make it to JP anyway, so that means it's a disadvantage for about 12 people globally who win tickets to JP. For the majority it's consistency of local series rules that counts, so as long as regionally its consistent, the more of that the better. Much like the rules in Oz infact (ie. consistent application).
Having grown up racing in the S'pore TC series, and doing that last 8 in Europe, my feeling is it's getting better and more uniform every year.
As it is, worst case its 4 diff series (US,EU, SEA, JP) and only the 1st placers in selected chassis make it to JP anyway, so that means it's a disadvantage for about 12 people globally who win tickets to JP. For the majority it's consistency of local series rules that counts, so as long as regionally its consistent, the more of that the better. Much like the rules in Oz infact (ie. consistent application).
Having grown up racing in the S'pore TC series, and doing that last 8 in Europe, my feeling is it's getting better and more uniform every year.
10-05-2011, 01:05 PM
had to go thru the link on the 2011 NA finals
10-05-2011, 02:40 PM
Anyone have a link to the Japanese rules? I'm interested to see how a series that demands factory parts, right down to the screws, could allow chopping the chassis to pieces.