pyro18t

iTrader: (1)

On a side note, some people can't use the 3Racing rack because it doesn't fall in line with TCS rules. Make sure you check with you local track.

Jay

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

I was trying to get one for ages, was really hard to get one a little while back.

Ended up using the yeah racing one, which isnt bad. But from what i have seen the 3 racing one is better than the yeah one and really tough like their new knuckles and almost as good as the tamiya one.

With regards to whether the alloy steering rack is better, people kept saying it was a must, a little while back. I got rid of the plastic stuff straight away. But someone was saying the plastic one isnt too bad, but if you hit things then the plastic will warp quickly. Although the nature of the M05 is such that in my opinion even if you are a good driver you will hit things initially while you sort the car out. Generally the best thing is to run a massive amount of toe out on the front M05.

1101

Most importantly,(except for the better steering saver..), the pro doesnt have a body($40 there) , still has the horrid tyres, no usefull upgrade like perhaps the steering upgrade , no steering bearings
Bling hubs for the rear only , ????, !!!!
No esc or motor, (could of sold em for some spare cash)

I did get the Pro, made me happy regardless.
-------------------
Ive sorted my M05 steering issues: torque steer type o thing on full power. Not perfect but much much better now.
Abit more toe out,
run a loose diff (perhaps that why some say the issues goes away after a while, diff getting looser??)
many thanks to all for the advice .

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

1101,

I already had a blinged out MO3R, so it was easy to just combine parts from both to get the MO5 I wanted. Same wheelbase etc made the decision easier for me at the time.

However, I do know beginners need a baseline to start with. A standard MO5 kit is the cheapest way and I have seen some of the better mini drivers run all plastic parts on there cars because they are lighter.

I just get dazzled by the need for bling...

Later,

Calvin

scribbler

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking of replacing the plastic cross brace in the steering of my M05 with the graphite one from Tech racing. Does this put stress on any other parts of the steering rack? Do I need to replace other parts?

Thanks

Zac_with_no_K

Can someone post the parts that break easily that I should stock up on?


Thanks.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Dont know if there are really parts worth buying.

Maybe knuckles ball studs, kingpin screws knuckle (and front suspension for M03). If you are worried about a breakage at a race meet, this might sound stupid but in my opinion you would be better off having a second kit.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

The only part I have broken on my MO5 Pro is a c hub, which is on the F parts for the MO5. This was from tapping a wall. The rest of the car is resilient, although I have heard of others breaking a front plastic knuckle.

The diff outdrives are the only other parts that wear.

Later,

Calvin.

MICHAEL BROWN

iTrader: (8)

I have found that the alloy steering parts bend and stay bent.
Whereas the plastic bits flex and return.
Also a slight bend in the alloy rack for example, could cause erratic ackermann settings and be difficult to notice.
I have only broken one plastic steering block, bent/broken cv shafts.
My car has had some epic barrier crashes, these cars are tough !

I recommend buying a full kit for spares, they're so cheap that way !!

1101

Bling is nice, allways fell better/go faster with a sexy looking car
2nd M05 I bought was the std M05 kit
std kit for racing
M05Pro + 9T brushless just for fun.

Its a vicious cycle once you start buying RC bling upgrades. Seen some TT01's that had $700(yes, thats $NZ1000) spent on them- garrrh.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Yes alloy does bend, especially the really cheap ones. I have had a yeah racing ones, and generally speaking they have been tough. It's been driven at windsor too, so i can guarantee you its had some really big hits.

As i stated before the 3racing ones are really good but tamiya would have to be the best.

People swear by the tamiya knuckles and i have to say the ones ive got from my pro kit have been great for ages. Ive also had the current 3racing knuckles and they seem really tough and I havent had problems with them. I even bought a whole bunch of them expecting them to bend but havent had to swap them out.

Also i think you probably need to take into account that a mini with the speeds and style of driving arent particularly fussy about a touch of tweak.

duneland

Anyone know where to get M-class foam tires? Preferably in the states..

hairy

iTrader: (1)

Personally I have a M05 Pro and race it quite often and have yet to break a part. Mine is set up for TCS rule racing and I love it!

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

Chassis ..... broken 2 of them in the last 3 weeks

1st was where the stearing system screws in one crash and it destoyed the screw hole

2nd was where to front upper arm screws to the chassis snapped it clean off the new 1 week old chassis

just unlucky i think (hope)

trerc

iTrader: (89)

Ditto for me with the mo3, I find keeping it off the boards helps.