288LikesTamiya mini cooper
11-13-2010, 07:03 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Do you have an ESC, can you afford to buy a body & motor separate? IF you answered yes then I would go with the PRO.... The cost of the bearings and the oil filled shocks (the standard kit comes with plasctic bushings and friction dampers) will balance out the cost of the body and motor. Plus you get all the pretty aluminium bits.
Jay
11-13-2010, 09:11 PM
hey guys, i have a bit of a problem with mini rules and motors, i are running silver can only in our club, so i went and got a 540 motor. when i went home and installed the motor i realized that its a goldish color instead of a silver color like my other one, i looked on tamiya site and all the motors that they list are marked with decals and major writing, is it a standard motor or not or did they change thinks up on the motors, its closed bell like the original. thanks guys.
11-13-2010, 10:23 PM
Better yet, look at the damned box it came in. It says 540J MOTOR on 5 of the 6 sides of the box and it has Tamiya or the Tamiya logo all over it. The lettering is blue. It's item #53689. The motor will be silver or matt silver in color and most of the time will have green and yellow motor leads. The end bell will be black and the can will have Johnson stamped on it.
No silvercan will be gold in color. The Tamiya #53689 is THE Silvercan motor that most racers refer to as a Silvercan.
No silvercan will be gold in color. The Tamiya #53689 is THE Silvercan motor that most racers refer to as a Silvercan.
11-13-2010, 10:39 PM
Tech Rookie
unfortunatly, we here in nz are restricted to tamiya wheels and tyres only, well... as far as im aware, no hopups other than bearings and sway bar, so no shocks, no modifications allowed to shocks etc, its just a basic kit class, its good fun but yeah
i think some aussies should come for our national champs next year.. would be interesting
i think some aussies should come for our national champs next year.. would be interesting
11-13-2010, 11:29 PM
Craig,
Try a new set of M grips on the rear and a worn pair on the front and drop your ride height by decreasing the spacers on the standard shocks. The new M grips son the rear should assist with stopping the back end getting loose.
Another option would be to try S grips on the car, however I am not that familiar with them, as we can run open tyres and most of track surfaces are asphalt.
Regards,
Calvin.
Try a new set of M grips on the rear and a worn pair on the front and drop your ride height by decreasing the spacers on the standard shocks. The new M grips son the rear should assist with stopping the back end getting loose.
Another option would be to try S grips on the car, however I am not that familiar with them, as we can run open tyres and most of track surfaces are asphalt.
Regards,
Calvin.
11-13-2010, 11:46 PM
Bearings are essential, the kits springs are too long for the oil shocks, the kit steering rod is too short, and I've already bent a rear upright. My car will be M-05 PRO spec soon enough, and have cost me more money to do it!
Looks to me like an M-05 PRO kit with TRF or black CVA super minis is the perfect way to start Mini racing.
11-13-2010, 11:49 PM
I have to agree, value for money is the MO5 Pro kit. By the time you add the other parts to your standard kit, you have surpassed the value of a PRO kit.
Regards,
Calvin.
Regards,
Calvin.
11-14-2010, 12:31 AM
I personally wouldnt go a pro kit, because in australia we can use aftermarket parts so knuckles arent that expensive and to me one of the few worth while thing which comes to mind in the pro kit.
Ooops just noticed yeah you need to get a bearing kit, but you can get a bearing kit cheap....
You still have to upgrade the aluninium steering rack, not convinced the motor plate makes that much difference. You dont need the alloy rear hubs or the rear adjustable camber links. I got a car which runs great with stock hubs and rear camber links.
The adjustable servo rod is bling (i dont think ive ever adjusted mine). Cant think of what else comes in the kit....
The stock shocks which come in the pro kit break easily, you are better off with mini cvas or an alloy shock.
You have to buy a body. Note body can make a big difference to performance.
Best tamiya bodies are swift for the medium and for the long mini cooper and mito are good (i suspect the mito is a better body that then bmw mini, but i havent run it) out of tamiya's short wheel base shells i have only run the mini cooper.
Generally for someone new you are best going with a long wheel based car.
If you are struggling for cash some kits come with a cheap esc to get you started, note you have to check the kit to see if it comes with an esc its the same box its just sometimes it has a little flouro coloured sticker on it to say it includes an esc (you need to look for the sticker and check what it says a mechanical speedie is NOT what you want).
Ooops just noticed yeah you need to get a bearing kit, but you can get a bearing kit cheap....
You still have to upgrade the aluninium steering rack, not convinced the motor plate makes that much difference. You dont need the alloy rear hubs or the rear adjustable camber links. I got a car which runs great with stock hubs and rear camber links.
The adjustable servo rod is bling (i dont think ive ever adjusted mine). Cant think of what else comes in the kit....
The stock shocks which come in the pro kit break easily, you are better off with mini cvas or an alloy shock.
You have to buy a body. Note body can make a big difference to performance.
Best tamiya bodies are swift for the medium and for the long mini cooper and mito are good (i suspect the mito is a better body that then bmw mini, but i havent run it) out of tamiya's short wheel base shells i have only run the mini cooper.
Generally for someone new you are best going with a long wheel based car.
If you are struggling for cash some kits come with a cheap esc to get you started, note you have to check the kit to see if it comes with an esc its the same box its just sometimes it has a little flouro coloured sticker on it to say it includes an esc (you need to look for the sticker and check what it says a mechanical speedie is NOT what you want).
11-14-2010, 01:29 AM
Tech Addict
going from 1/10 to mini required a big shift in driving habits. The other guys racing minis indoors werent rolling, so I knew the problem was my driving style, as all cars MUST be the same as per NZ rules.
The only thing that helped me was S-grips on front , M-grips on rear (on my M05), and slowing down & coasting around the corners.
NZ rules means NO MODIFICATIONS to standard shocks or springs and 10mm ride height
But some guys and weights into their minis to help stop rollovers.
And put the RX/esc into the chassis(if possible) to keep weight lower down.
11-14-2010, 05:21 AM
I personally wouldnt go a pro kit, because in australia we can use aftermarket parts so knuckles arent that expensive and to me one of the few worth while thing which comes to mind in the pro kit.
Ooops just noticed yeah you need to get a bearing kit, but you can get a bearing kit cheap....
You still have to upgrade the aluninium steering rack, not convinced the motor plate makes that much difference. You dont need the alloy rear hubs or the rear adjustable camber links. I got a car which runs great with stock hubs and rear camber links.
The adjustable servo rod is bling (i dont think ive ever adjusted mine). Cant think of what else comes in the kit....
The stock shocks which come in the pro kit break easily, you are better off with mini cvas or an alloy shock.
You have to buy a body. Note body can make a big difference to performance.
Best tamiya bodies are swift for the medium and for the long mini cooper and mito are good (i suspect the mito is a better body that then bmw mini, but i havent run it) out of tamiya's short wheel base shells i have only run the mini cooper.
Generally for someone new you are best going with a long wheel based car.
If you are struggling for cash some kits come with a cheap esc to get you started, note you have to check the kit to see if it comes with an esc its the same box its just sometimes it has a little flouro coloured sticker on it to say it includes an esc (you need to look for the sticker and check what it says a mechanical speedie is NOT what you want).
Ooops just noticed yeah you need to get a bearing kit, but you can get a bearing kit cheap....
You still have to upgrade the aluninium steering rack, not convinced the motor plate makes that much difference. You dont need the alloy rear hubs or the rear adjustable camber links. I got a car which runs great with stock hubs and rear camber links.
The adjustable servo rod is bling (i dont think ive ever adjusted mine). Cant think of what else comes in the kit....
The stock shocks which come in the pro kit break easily, you are better off with mini cvas or an alloy shock.
You have to buy a body. Note body can make a big difference to performance.
Best tamiya bodies are swift for the medium and for the long mini cooper and mito are good (i suspect the mito is a better body that then bmw mini, but i havent run it) out of tamiya's short wheel base shells i have only run the mini cooper.
Generally for someone new you are best going with a long wheel based car.
If you are struggling for cash some kits come with a cheap esc to get you started, note you have to check the kit to see if it comes with an esc its the same box its just sometimes it has a little flouro coloured sticker on it to say it includes an esc (you need to look for the sticker and check what it says a mechanical speedie is NOT what you want).
The shocks that come with the pro are crap. I like the plastic rear uprights better than the shiny blue ones because they have more toe in. Bearings are cheap and most folks have a speed controller laying around or can get one for not much cash.
11-14-2010, 05:36 AM
I suppose it all comes back to what makes you happy. For me the Pro was the way to go, as it was released first. The shocks are the weakest part of the kit and mine are still in there packaging.
Marty,
You forgot the bling servo saver.
I prefer the alloy rear hubs to the plastic 2 degree rear hubs. I have started to experiment with running zero toe blocks from the original MO3 kit on the MO5.
I think the car can work without requiring rear toe in.
Something else to test in the future.
Anyway, it comes back to a personal choice. I have both a Pro kit and a standard kit which has been blinged to a Pro.
I still believe though that the original Tamiya hopup parts are the way to go, except for a couple of bits from after market suppliers. I have had a few of the cheaper bling bits distort after a knock on a board.
Anyway, enough of my dribble.
Catch ya,
Calvin.
Marty,
You forgot the bling servo saver.
I prefer the alloy rear hubs to the plastic 2 degree rear hubs. I have started to experiment with running zero toe blocks from the original MO3 kit on the MO5.I think the car can work without requiring rear toe in.
Something else to test in the future.Anyway, it comes back to a personal choice. I have both a Pro kit and a standard kit which has been blinged to a Pro.
I still believe though that the original Tamiya hopup parts are the way to go, except for a couple of bits from after market suppliers. I have had a few of the cheaper bling bits distort after a knock on a board.
Anyway, enough of my dribble.
Catch ya,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 11-14-2010 at 05:41 AM. Reason: spelling
11-14-2010, 08:01 AM
Youre not that old that you are dribbling everywhere!
Actually yeah the high torque servo saver is much better than the stock plastic thing it comes with, which i think is pretty bad. I never used it on the M05 i think one of my cars has a kimborough servo saver and the other was the m05 pro kit which i won so it has the high torque servo saver.
Not sure if you need the alloy horn though :P
Yeah the tamiya aluminium is better than the rest of the stuff out there, but of the aluminium parts which come in the pro kit i think the only usefull upgrade are the knuckles.
If it came with an alloy steering rack i would suggest the pro (and i think its really disappointing that the pro doesnt have those parts).
But to each their own
Actually yeah the high torque servo saver is much better than the stock plastic thing it comes with, which i think is pretty bad. I never used it on the M05 i think one of my cars has a kimborough servo saver and the other was the m05 pro kit which i won so it has the high torque servo saver.
Not sure if you need the alloy horn though :P
Yeah the tamiya aluminium is better than the rest of the stuff out there, but of the aluminium parts which come in the pro kit i think the only usefull upgrade are the knuckles.
If it came with an alloy steering rack i would suggest the pro (and i think its really disappointing that the pro doesnt have those parts).
But to each their own
11-14-2010, 09:26 AM
Does the Tamiya Aluminum Steering Post give any extra benefit over the stock item ?
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54193
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54193
11-14-2010, 12:22 PM
Has anyone used the 3 racing aluminum steering rack? Its a lot cheaper than the tamiya, but I know how some of the aftermarket stuff bends easily?
11-14-2010, 12:37 PM
