288LikesTamiya mini cooper
04-02-2007, 12:48 PM
#3751
Originally Posted by Rysuleod
What is the part number of the bag that has the MA9 shims in it please? I can't find it.
04-02-2007, 10:06 PM
#3752
Tech Fanatic
Tim K: Thanks for the cool picture.....man that thing looks wicked with those chrome wheels and black chassis.
Can you tell us about the aluminum servo mounts? Do they mount the servo down low without the use of some type of spacer? Is there a part number?
I've been using the stock plastic mounts and no matter how careful I am, they strip. Is there a aluminum Tamiya TCS-legal aluminum servo mount?
DFB: After 14 years of racing RC cars, I thought Mini's were just a cult-following.....till I bought one. I got rid of all my off-road stuff and sedans.
Now it's 1/12 scale and mini's for me!
Can you tell us about the aluminum servo mounts? Do they mount the servo down low without the use of some type of spacer? Is there a part number?
I've been using the stock plastic mounts and no matter how careful I am, they strip. Is there a aluminum Tamiya TCS-legal aluminum servo mount?
DFB: After 14 years of racing RC cars, I thought Mini's were just a cult-following.....till I bought one. I got rid of all my off-road stuff and sedans.
Now it's 1/12 scale and mini's for me!
04-03-2007, 03:03 AM
#3753
Originally Posted by Tim K
I had a new set of uni's in the draw, so I put them on, the kit comes with dogbones as usual 
It comes with 6 short white springs (2 have blue dots, 2 yellow and 2 red). They're just painted white to stop people copying your setup
The rear has adjustable camber, but to me it looks like it is exactly the same length as the standard rear link. There is a 0.5mm spacer between the 2 ends on the link, so if you take the 0.5 spacer out, you've got 0.5 adjustment to give you negative camber which you want ... plenty of adjustment for positive camber which you don't want
Front has the same upper links as usual - non adjustable.
Kit tyres are just like the normal radial kit tires with every other kit. No motor either, but you do get a pinion. You get a complete set of the M03M "F Parts" tree in chrome ... and a tub of AW grease to put in the gear diff
Also the new blue alloy knuckles don't use king pins, instead they use a tophat style spacer top and bottom with a standard 3x10mm threaded screw, so at least if the screw falls out it will be easy to find a replacement in your pitbox. And there are now 3 holes for steering linkage adjustment.
The 1.5 degree rear toe in blocks are pretty funky, they have 2 holes for adjustment at the top, and at the bottom they have a threaded hole so you can use a grub screw with a TL01 stainless suspension shaft set and not worry about the clips.
There are (non-blue) turnbuckles for the steering linkage, and blue alloy ball studs at each end. All of the 3x10 self tapping screws aren't stainless, they're that black chrome color finish ... but apart from all of that, the kit is pretty much the same as normal
It comes with 6 short white springs (2 have blue dots, 2 yellow and 2 red). They're just painted white to stop people copying your setup
The rear has adjustable camber, but to me it looks like it is exactly the same length as the standard rear link. There is a 0.5mm spacer between the 2 ends on the link, so if you take the 0.5 spacer out, you've got 0.5 adjustment to give you negative camber which you want ... plenty of adjustment for positive camber which you don't want
Front has the same upper links as usual - non adjustable.
Kit tyres are just like the normal radial kit tires with every other kit. No motor either, but you do get a pinion. You get a complete set of the M03M "F Parts" tree in chrome ... and a tub of AW grease to put in the gear diff
Also the new blue alloy knuckles don't use king pins, instead they use a tophat style spacer top and bottom with a standard 3x10mm threaded screw, so at least if the screw falls out it will be easy to find a replacement in your pitbox. And there are now 3 holes for steering linkage adjustment.
The 1.5 degree rear toe in blocks are pretty funky, they have 2 holes for adjustment at the top, and at the bottom they have a threaded hole so you can use a grub screw with a TL01 stainless suspension shaft set and not worry about the clips.
There are (non-blue) turnbuckles for the steering linkage, and blue alloy ball studs at each end. All of the 3x10 self tapping screws aren't stainless, they're that black chrome color finish ... but apart from all of that, the kit is pretty much the same as normal
how about the wheel hub? gear diff or ball diff?
thanks!
04-03-2007, 04:02 AM
#3754
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Its here...the M03R.. The most anticipated new Mini arrival for some time. You've seen Tims preview pics online, now click here to read our full review with ALL the info you need.
04-03-2007, 05:16 AM
#3755
Originally Posted by Rnold
Hi Tim K: does it come with full bearings? hollow carbon gear shaft?
how about the wheel hub? gear diff or ball diff?
thanks!
how about the wheel hub? gear diff or ball diff?
thanks!
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/rc/rcmanual/49417m03r.pdf
04-03-2007, 05:31 AM
#3756
Originally Posted by Graphitedust
Tim K: Thanks for the cool picture.....man that thing looks wicked with those chrome wheels and black chassis.
Can you tell us about the aluminum servo mounts? Do they mount the servo down low without the use of some type of spacer? Is there a part number?
I've been using the stock plastic mounts and no matter how careful I am, they strip. Is there a aluminum Tamiya TCS-legal aluminum servo mount?
DFB: After 14 years of racing RC cars, I thought Mini's were just a cult-following.....till I bought one. I got rid of all my off-road stuff and sedans.
Now it's 1/12 scale and mini's for me!
Can you tell us about the aluminum servo mounts? Do they mount the servo down low without the use of some type of spacer? Is there a part number?
I've been using the stock plastic mounts and no matter how careful I am, they strip. Is there a aluminum Tamiya TCS-legal aluminum servo mount?
DFB: After 14 years of racing RC cars, I thought Mini's were just a cult-following.....till I bought one. I got rid of all my off-road stuff and sedans.
Now it's 1/12 scale and mini's for me!
Rnold - yes, full metal shielded bearings. No hollow carbon shafts. Plastic wheel hubs and only a gear diff
Lucky it has plenty of blue alloy
04-03-2007, 07:28 AM
#3757
Tim K,
Looks great. Thanks for the pics! Adjustable rear link eh? It sounds like there's nothing stopping us from putting it on the front. What do you think?
Looks great. Thanks for the pics! Adjustable rear link eh? It sounds like there's nothing stopping us from putting it on the front. What do you think?
04-03-2007, 07:44 AM
#3758
Originally Posted by Graphitedust
Can you tell us about the aluminum servo mounts? Do they mount the servo down low without the use of some type of spacer? Is there a part number?
I've been using the stock plastic mounts and no matter how careful I am, they strip. Is there a aluminum Tamiya TCS-legal aluminum servo mount?
However, I think that the best trick is to wedge something underneath the servo case, between the servo case and the chassis, to minimize the the give that is inherent in the plastic tower servo holder. When using a futaba mini digital servo and the alum. servo mounts, I found that the thickness of the standard AMB personal transponder with one layer of sevo tape is just the correct height to wedge in there. This prevents the servo from twisting back and forth in the plastic servo tower mounts, for more precise steering, and tends to minimize the tendency of the servo tower support brackets twising & cracking in a bad crash. It gives you a good stable and protected place to mount the transponder anyway. And it is TCS legal.
04-03-2007, 04:22 PM
#3759
Sim600 - I'm not sure if you could get the adjustable links short enough to run on the front … couldn't hurt to try
Minidriver - those are good tips!
I have been using the longer TG10 alloy servo mounts, which lowers (wedges) the servo onto the top of the chassis, but then the stock servo saver scrapes, so I have to use Tamiya 51000 hi-torq servo saver - the downside is that these are very weak, I've broken about 3 in a year, never broken a stock item.
Minidriver - those are good tips!
I have been using the longer TG10 alloy servo mounts, which lowers (wedges) the servo onto the top of the chassis, but then the stock servo saver scrapes, so I have to use Tamiya 51000 hi-torq servo saver - the downside is that these are very weak, I've broken about 3 in a year, never broken a stock item.
04-03-2007, 11:10 PM
#3760
Tony / Tim ...
I see the fr. alum upright quite interesting .. Tamiya never made it before (AFAIK start from TA-series) ....
I also see (in Jap mag) their TRF driver (Satoshi) use same kind (look) of arm on his 415MSX ...
Could it be this fr. upright, but I'm wondering 'cause the bearing size is 1050 ???? ..... I thought it suppose 950 for MSX, right .... ????
I see the fr. alum upright quite interesting .. Tamiya never made it before (AFAIK start from TA-series) ....
I also see (in Jap mag) their TRF driver (Satoshi) use same kind (look) of arm on his 415MSX ...
Could it be this fr. upright, but I'm wondering 'cause the bearing size is 1050 ???? ..... I thought it suppose 950 for MSX, right .... ????
04-04-2007, 01:03 AM
#3761
Tech Rookie
newbie buying mini...
Hi, I am relatively new to RC, I currently have an electric 1/10th stadium racing truck that I use for bashing, have taken it down to the local off road track a few times but have never properly raced it, but I am thinking of getting into racing minis, as it seems a bit more casual, track is closer, can practice in a car park, less time etc
To this end I was thinking of getting an M-03R chassis and also possibly a M-04 as well, (Alfa romeo - it just looks cool), with a view to racing these cars, as well as being able to drive them on the road out the front of my place.
I have spare radio gear, servos and escs and two tamiya sports tuned motors both in good nick, plus batteries and charger, so I intend to use these on the mini (s?).
So a couple of questions...
Is it worth getting both?
For the M-03, is it worth getting the M-03R, or should I get the Suzuki Swift, or just a rover mini and get bearings at the start but other hop ups later on?
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
To this end I was thinking of getting an M-03R chassis and also possibly a M-04 as well, (Alfa romeo - it just looks cool), with a view to racing these cars, as well as being able to drive them on the road out the front of my place.
I have spare radio gear, servos and escs and two tamiya sports tuned motors both in good nick, plus batteries and charger, so I intend to use these on the mini (s?).
So a couple of questions...
Is it worth getting both?
For the M-03, is it worth getting the M-03R, or should I get the Suzuki Swift, or just a rover mini and get bearings at the start but other hop ups later on?
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
04-04-2007, 08:51 AM
#3762
Originally Posted by muahdib4
A lot will depend on the grip on carpet and different things work for different people. On my SWB M03 I run...
TRF Shocks (optional) Super CVA Mini Shocks work great too
Ride height: 3.5mm front and rear
Shock Oil: 35 weight front and rear
Springs Front: White Tamiya Short Tuned (not from set)
Springs Rear: Red Tamiya Short Tuned (not from set)
Tires Front: S-Grip
Tires Rear: M-Grip
Stabilizer Front: Silver
Stabilizer Rear: NONE
Differential: Gear Diff works great on Carpet. Shim it with 4xMA9, that's the large washer in the kit...put 2 on EACH side of the diff and tighten it down. There should still be a little diff action but it will be really tight allowing for better acceleration out of corners. Run the Diff dry with MAYBE a quick squirt of silicon oil but just a little.
With Tires, experiment there. My setup is working for me but another guy at the track runs M-Grips up front and Type A slicks in the back and that works well for him. Some of that will depend on your driving style. Same with springs. Some use the Blue Tamiya Short Tuned (not from set) in the front instead of the harder white.
TRF Shocks (optional) Super CVA Mini Shocks work great too
Ride height: 3.5mm front and rear
Shock Oil: 35 weight front and rear
Springs Front: White Tamiya Short Tuned (not from set)
Springs Rear: Red Tamiya Short Tuned (not from set)
Tires Front: S-Grip
Tires Rear: M-Grip
Stabilizer Front: Silver
Stabilizer Rear: NONE
Differential: Gear Diff works great on Carpet. Shim it with 4xMA9, that's the large washer in the kit...put 2 on EACH side of the diff and tighten it down. There should still be a little diff action but it will be really tight allowing for better acceleration out of corners. Run the Diff dry with MAYBE a quick squirt of silicon oil but just a little.
With Tires, experiment there. My setup is working for me but another guy at the track runs M-Grips up front and Type A slicks in the back and that works well for him. Some of that will depend on your driving style. Same with springs. Some use the Blue Tamiya Short Tuned (not from set) in the front instead of the harder white.
I use the Super Mini CVA (plastic) shocks. What is your preference on shock rebound with your setup?
How many holes in your pistons in the above setup?
When running at such a low ride height my rear hub carrier almost touches the rear body mounts. Is this what you experience also?
My ozite carpet setup:
M-03M Suzuki Swift Kit
TA03 Ball Diff - tightened all the way down
Tamiya kit ESC - ESC and receiver inside rear pod to lower CG
Orion 3200 Lipo - no extra weight added to car currently - Cheater!
S-Grips front and rear - HPI Yellow Soft 26mm inserts (they fit perfectly) - Paragon inside of fronts and all rear
Super Mini CVA plastic shocks - 3 hole pistons - 80wt all around - 5 o r6mm internal limiters (forgot!) - fast rebound, no ride height adjusters above springs.
Springs - Front Red short tuned, Rear yellow short tuned
No sway bars
Ride height: It's as low as the springs allow it to sit.
edited to add setup info.
Last edited by Rysuleod; 04-04-2007 at 11:21 AM.
04-04-2007, 09:06 AM
#3763
Originally Posted by Rysuleod
I have a couple questions:
I use the Super Mini CVA (plastic) shocks. What is your preference on shock rebound with your setup?
How many holes in your pistons in the above setup?
When running at such a low ride height my rear hub carrier almost touches the rear body mounts. Is this what you experience also?
My ozite carpet setup:
M-03M Suzuki Swift Kit
Tamiya kit ESC
Orion 3200 Lipo - no extra weight added to car currently - Cheater!
S-Grips front and rear - Paragon inside of fronts and all rear
Super Mini CVA plastic shocks - 3 hole pistons - 80wt all around - fast rebound, no ride height adjusters above springs.
Springs - Front Red short tuned, Rear yellow short tuned
No sway bars
Ride height: It's as low as the springs allow it to sit.
I use the Super Mini CVA (plastic) shocks. What is your preference on shock rebound with your setup?
How many holes in your pistons in the above setup?
When running at such a low ride height my rear hub carrier almost touches the rear body mounts. Is this what you experience also?
My ozite carpet setup:
M-03M Suzuki Swift Kit
Tamiya kit ESC
Orion 3200 Lipo - no extra weight added to car currently - Cheater!
S-Grips front and rear - Paragon inside of fronts and all rear
Super Mini CVA plastic shocks - 3 hole pistons - 80wt all around - fast rebound, no ride height adjusters above springs.
Springs - Front Red short tuned, Rear yellow short tuned
No sway bars
Ride height: It's as low as the springs allow it to sit.
04-04-2007, 11:20 AM
#3764
Thanks for the ideas.
I tried running without tire sauce but the front end kept planting on high speed to low speed transitions causing me to wash out (oversteer?). I haven't tried no sauce on S-Grips yet. Part of my problem could be related to the use of the lighter lipos.
My car is the same way 2-3mm travel tops. At that small distance I wonder if the oil in the shock really does anything at all. I had 40wt in my rear shocks with 3 hole pistons and there was very little resistance so I upped it to 80wt. I figure at best what I am doing is controlling the shock rebound in a miniscule way by going from 40-80. I know rc-mini.net (awesome site btw guys) says the friction shocks work just fine and now after futzing with the cheapo plastic ones I wonder if I'd even notice a difference.
I tried running without tire sauce but the front end kept planting on high speed to low speed transitions causing me to wash out (oversteer?). I haven't tried no sauce on S-Grips yet. Part of my problem could be related to the use of the lighter lipos.
My car is the same way 2-3mm travel tops. At that small distance I wonder if the oil in the shock really does anything at all. I had 40wt in my rear shocks with 3 hole pistons and there was very little resistance so I upped it to 80wt. I figure at best what I am doing is controlling the shock rebound in a miniscule way by going from 40-80. I know rc-mini.net (awesome site btw guys) says the friction shocks work just fine and now after futzing with the cheapo plastic ones I wonder if I'd even notice a difference.
04-04-2007, 03:48 PM
#3765
Woo-Hoo....looks like I'm the first one in the States to get mine...or at least the first one to post...