Hpi Pro 4
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
Mine's been pretty sturdy, although I've been through a few front bevel gears. Other than that, it's a great car, very quick...
My car has always been pretty stiff. I had bad, bad glitching one day, and a glitch sent my car into the barrier, it flipped over a did somersalts (sp?) like it practiced daily. Just a broken knuckle and a bent hingpin.
-Josh
-Josh
Originally Posted by Aurra Sing
been trying out this new asphalt setup, its been working extremely good. low traction/high traction, VHT, soda, you name it... almost always the fastest car or one of the fastest. too bad the driver hasnt been driving consistenly lately
setup influenced by recent setup trends of the JRX-S, which is to have a high front roll center.. it has a lot of steering and rounds corners well
(front/rear)
springs: gold/silver or silver/silver (or harder overall depending on track)
sway bar: copper OR silver/no rear sway bar (again varying on track)
oil: 50/40
piston: #3/#3
damper positions on shock tower: #2/#4
camber: -1deg/-1deg
droop: 6mm/5mm (measured using HPI droop guage)
inboard toe: 1.5deg/3deg
roll center:
f/f: 2mm
f/r: 2mm
r/f: 0mm
r/r: 0mm
inner camber link spacing: 3mm/2.5mm
- camber link mounted on inside hole on rear hub
- one way
- mazda 6 body
- use short wheel base for tight tracks
- 2mm chassis
setup influenced by recent setup trends of the JRX-S, which is to have a high front roll center.. it has a lot of steering and rounds corners well
(front/rear)
springs: gold/silver or silver/silver (or harder overall depending on track)
sway bar: copper OR silver/no rear sway bar (again varying on track)
oil: 50/40
piston: #3/#3
damper positions on shock tower: #2/#4
camber: -1deg/-1deg
droop: 6mm/5mm (measured using HPI droop guage)
inboard toe: 1.5deg/3deg
roll center:
f/f: 2mm
f/r: 2mm
r/f: 0mm
r/r: 0mm
inner camber link spacing: 3mm/2.5mm
- camber link mounted on inside hole on rear hub
- one way
- mazda 6 body
- use short wheel base for tight tracks
- 2mm chassis
been wondering, has anybody been trying this setup out? i raced my pro 4 again and it was very good on the high traction parking lot i raced on today.
Originally Posted by xxxkat
floodo1..My car was really fast today.. 10.4's,changed bodys,tried a nemesis today,really freed up the car..
i realized this yesterday, im fighting oversteer off power, which is the main effect of running oneway...huge off power steering. i just dont have a 2nd diff
i know im giving up easily .2 on the straigh because i have to slow down soooo early otherwise i will madly oversteer.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
True..but you are still the "car" to beat,out of everyones car your Pro4 still looks the best.. Just changing bodys made such a huge difference in the way my car worked,I have been running a Mazda 6 but the Pro4 i just got had a nemesis body on it so I had to try it,really freed the car up,With the mazda 6 on it it still felt a bit bound up in a few corners,It's alot easier to change bodys than..you know make changes on the suspension..
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
John Warner,I would rate the durability of the Pro4 at a 7,put a pdub bumper on it and it goes up to an 8.5,If you run a oneway and hit stuff you will break gears..maybe not every time but you will break them,same with a spool.I race on carpet so I run a diff up front and dont really have a gear breakage problem,Front end..I do break c hubs and steering blocks(see pdub bumper..I dont have one yet)I dont break often,but when you race at a track with boards you will break if you hit them hard enough.I have not broken any a arms..yet,Rear end..I have not broken anything on the back of the Pro4..yet.If your racing an evo4 the Pro4 is as tough if not tougher and parts are(IMHO)easier to get and as a rule dont cost as much..and the Pro4 is faster than a evo4..
Tech Master
Guy's I appreciate your input. I'm presently driving the Tamiya EVO IV, but am considering switching to the Pro4, and was curious about any problems the car may have. Does the bevel gear problem go away if I were to run a diff in the front instead of the one-way?
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
John that would be a yes.. I have been told that you can use the tc3/tc4 gears in the car as well,I have not tried it out but i have been told that it does work.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by John Warner
Guy's I appreciate your input. I'm presently driving the Tamiya EVO IV, but am considering switching to the Pro4, and was curious about any problems the car may have. Does the bevel gear problem go away if I were to run a diff in the front instead of the one-way?
I've been running the Pro 4 for about 1 1/2 years now once a week and with a ball diff in the front I have not once broken any gears.
I ONLY run a spool on asphalt. stock, 19, and mod, Spool is almost always the fastest way to get around the track. BUT you can't just put a spool in your car and be fast. It takes a few weeks of testing and practice to find a good setup. A good setup works good on just about every type of track. Minor changes are needed when you go to a new track. Also, a spool will let you brake entering turns and make inside passes. Another plus is that when you and a guy with a one-way rub, he will always come out worse than you. Not that your hacking, but accidents happen
Try a spool on asphalt. You WILL get faster
Try a spool on asphalt. You WILL get faster
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
How well does a spool work on carpet.
Tech Master
Well, it looks like I'm leaving the Tamiya camp, and joining HPI's.
Originally Posted by xxxkat
How well does a spool work on carpet.
Terrible with foamies. I've tried it. I believe most run a front diff with foams on carpet.
I've never ran rubber tires on carpet. Maybe someone can comment.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
Anyone have a carpet setup foam?