Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#7744
Thats good question. Those racers on track told me there are 2 type of ceramic balls one should aware.
1. ceramic coated
2. fully ceramic
For the issue I am having, I did called the owner of the shop. They cannot answer the question. They tell me to try that's all.
How can one differentiate when there are so many 3rd party supplier. Other than most of them they do not mention on the label.
If you buying from reputable co. it's different.
1. ceramic coated
2. fully ceramic
For the issue I am having, I did called the owner of the shop. They cannot answer the question. They tell me to try that's all.
How can one differentiate when there are so many 3rd party supplier. Other than most of them they do not mention on the label.
If you buying from reputable co. it's different.
#7745
I'll qualify my post by saying I'm still using the very same set.
#7746
Thats good question. Those racers on track told me there are 2 type of ceramic balls one should aware.
1. ceramic coated
2. fully ceramic
For the issue I am having, I did called the owner of the shop. They cannot answer the question. They tell me to try that's all.
How can one differentiate when there are so many 3rd party supplier. Other than most of them they do not mention on the label.
If you buying from reputable co. it's different.
1. ceramic coated
2. fully ceramic
For the issue I am having, I did called the owner of the shop. They cannot answer the question. They tell me to try that's all.
How can one differentiate when there are so many 3rd party supplier. Other than most of them they do not mention on the label.
If you buying from reputable co. it's different.
"Our CERAMIC balls are made of solid Silicone Nitride (Si3N4), not coated nor anodized."
Otherwise go for the TRF balls...
#7747
#7748
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
416X build observations & questions
Just finishing off my 416X, but a couple of observations/questions:
Looking forward to running it!
Phil.
- Both front and rear arms seem very tight with the suggested number of spacers. Removing the 0.5mm one helps a lot. Did other people find this as well?
- When fitting the sway bars, the load seems a little uneven. For example, lifting one side raises the other almost immediately, but when I lift the opposite side, there's a lag. Is this normal and what's the best way to adjust, assuming it's important?
- The manual is a little unclear - are you supposed to fit both wheel spacers on the back, for a total of 1.5mm?
Looking forward to running it!
Phil.
#7749
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Don't be fooled, 64 pitch may be very close to .4 metric but it doesn't really work. Setting mesh is going to be very fiddly and you will get an annoying high pitched noise from the transmission. While this is not a problem in itself, it is the symptom of a problem, and that is power loss and sooner or later (depending on what motor you're running) but in any case prematurely you will wear the pinion/spur. Get the proper pitch for whatever you're using, there's no gain in cutting corners here.
Also funny how the original HPI pinions said .4 metric / 64p on the package. They were nice and tall, worked better on my EVO's. My only guess is it may only go one way.
I remember people stipping gears on the TA03 when it came out and used 64p pinions. After a few more seconds of thought (ouch) that was before all the alloy motor plates and stuff for it.
#7751
Just finishing off my 416X, but a couple of observations/questions:
Looking forward to running it!
Phil.
- Both front and rear arms seem very tight with the suggested number of spacers. Removing the 0.5mm one helps a lot. Did other people find this as well?
- When fitting the sway bars, the load seems a little uneven. For example, lifting one side raises the other almost immediately, but when I lift the opposite side, there's a lag. Is this normal and what's the best way to adjust, assuming it's important?
- The manual is a little unclear - are you supposed to fit both wheel spacers on the back, for a total of 1.5mm?
Looking forward to running it!
Phil.
+ YouTube Video | |
2. First off make sure the bar is not tweaked by putting it on a flat surface. Most of the time, I can adjust the balance by turning the ball ends on the bar. Just loosen the grub screw and re-tighten it at another angle.
3. The wheel spacers are your choice. I usually like to use .5mm in the rear. On the front, I just use 5mm hex hubs because some rims don't like spacers.
#7752
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
All of the ceramics I've tried (which are the black, full versions) have lasted excellently. So much so, I won't use any other type of balls in my diffs, and as my team mates keep telling me, my diffs are pretty stunningly smooth even after 5 or so full race days with a 10.5t.
I wouldn't worry about their durability at all, ceramic balls and ceramic thrust races are the best way too get a silky smooth diff, and covers then help to keep them super durable.
HiH
Ed
I wouldn't worry about their durability at all, ceramic balls and ceramic thrust races are the best way too get a silky smooth diff, and covers then help to keep them super durable.
HiH
Ed
#7753
Tech Apprentice
camber link
What would be the effect of increasing / decreasing the front (inner) & rear (inner & outer) camber link spacer ?
TIA
TIA
Last edited by leonardiw; 01-08-2010 at 04:32 AM.
#7754
All of the ceramics I've tried (which are the black, full versions) have lasted excellently. So much so, I won't use any other type of balls in my diffs, and as my team mates keep telling me, my diffs are pretty stunningly smooth even after 5 or so full race days with a 10.5t.
I wouldn't worry about their durability at all, ceramic balls and ceramic thrust races are the best way too get a silky smooth diff, and covers then help to keep them super durable.
HiH
Ed
I wouldn't worry about their durability at all, ceramic balls and ceramic thrust races are the best way too get a silky smooth diff, and covers then help to keep them super durable.
HiH
Ed
#7755
One thing about pure ceramic & the coated ceramic balls. I am kinda worry as the one I brought was made in Hong Kong from the label. How to physically differentiate them and that's the challenge.