Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#9243
#9244

yupp agreed more
#9245

where is the best place in the US to get tamiya 416 parts?
#9246
#9247
#9248

we need to get more tamiya parts in the US. must not be much of a market over here.
#9249

Originally Posted by CraigM;

Most people I know found the X strange at first, but now are quicker than they were with the WE. I found it a bit stuck at first but a few slight changes free it up enough to be quick but still planted
#9250
#9251
#9252

To free up the X I have been doing a few things...
The First thing is trying different bodies...I find that the LTC-R really helps the car finish. Although the LTC-R does reduce intital steering, but mid and exit it is great.
I also have tried less rear toe, which seems to help, but I usualy end up back at three deg.
I make sure my rear camber links are pretty flat. This tends to help the car rotate.
I know it seems odd, but I remove the rear sway bar. I find that on carpet the rear sway bar makes the car feel more planted. My buddy Syndr0me really does not agree on this one.
Take out the center brace above the steering rack, this makes a big difference.
The amount of traction compound you use in the front really affects the car's ability to rotate. Try playing with more or different doping methods.
It really comes down to weight transfer, the X requires that more weight gets transferred to the front. I feel the opposite with the worlds. The perfect car would honestly be a something between the two of them. I think the battery position would make a big difference and is something that I am going to be testing here soon.
Hopes this helps...
The First thing is trying different bodies...I find that the LTC-R really helps the car finish. Although the LTC-R does reduce intital steering, but mid and exit it is great.
I also have tried less rear toe, which seems to help, but I usualy end up back at three deg.
I make sure my rear camber links are pretty flat. This tends to help the car rotate.
I know it seems odd, but I remove the rear sway bar. I find that on carpet the rear sway bar makes the car feel more planted. My buddy Syndr0me really does not agree on this one.
Take out the center brace above the steering rack, this makes a big difference.
The amount of traction compound you use in the front really affects the car's ability to rotate. Try playing with more or different doping methods.
It really comes down to weight transfer, the X requires that more weight gets transferred to the front. I feel the opposite with the worlds. The perfect car would honestly be a something between the two of them. I think the battery position would make a big difference and is something that I am going to be testing here soon.
Hopes this helps...
#9253

Everything else I agree with and run on my WE (almost flat camber links, etc.). I run the rear roll centers .5mm higher under the toe blocks than the kit specs.
#9254

I was always under the impression that removing the brace allowed for more flex up front, yielding more steering. I pull the brace out entirely, not just the screw.
I'm gonna put the X bits back on my car today and try a few things to help it rotate better. I'll try Ling's suggestion of the high diff, and also some stuff Paul mentioned in his thread about using a lot less camber in the rear than the front. Might mess with ackermann a bit too.
I'm gonna put the X bits back on my car today and try a few things to help it rotate better. I'll try Ling's suggestion of the high diff, and also some stuff Paul mentioned in his thread about using a lot less camber in the rear than the front. Might mess with ackermann a bit too.