Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#7712

Fair 'nuff. Only ordered the once from them, and it was fine. A possible alternative is a Tamiya part: 53970 Ball Differential Protective Seal. Doesn't explicitly list the 416, but looks pretty close and may be easier to source.
Phil.
Phil.
#7713

Can anyone scan the front page of the manual from their 416X?
#7715

I use LRP stickers which comes with ESC for car bodyshell. It does not even peel.
#7716

Hi everyone,
Finally got my TRF416 up and running. Been sitting in my room half built for about 6 months now.
Anyway, I was just wondering if there it any way to mount a regular stick pack on there? Or is the only option LIPO or the ones where the cells are in six parallel cells?
Thanks!
Finally got my TRF416 up and running. Been sitting in my room half built for about 6 months now.
Anyway, I was just wondering if there it any way to mount a regular stick pack on there? Or is the only option LIPO or the ones where the cells are in six parallel cells?
Thanks!
#7717

I notice a lot of guys running DD up front for carpet to keep car from traction rolling. Why don't you just run CC and glue the sidewalls of the tires like Wilck and Rheinard do? Take a look at Wilck's ETS pictures from the Budapest race and you'll see he's running CC and gluing his tires about half to 2/3rds of the way up from the bead.
#7718

I notice a lot of guys running DD up front for carpet to keep car from traction rolling. Why don't you just run CC and glue the sidewalls of the tires like Wilck and Rheinard do? Take a look at Wilck's ETS pictures from the Budapest race and you'll see he's running CC and gluing his tires about half to 2/3rds of the way up from the bead.
#7719

So I guess the team driver's want to keep the needed steering for mod by using CC up front and glue the sidewalls to keep from traction rolling in high grip conditions. Seem like this should be the ticket for the spec classes as well. I guess I'll have to try for myself.
#7720

Don't be fooled, 64 pitch may be very close to .4 metric but it doesn't really work. Setting mesh is going to be very fiddly and you will get an annoying high pitched noise from the transmission. While this is not a problem in itself, it is the symptom of a problem, and that is power loss and sooner or later (depending on what motor you're running) but in any case prematurely you will wear the pinion/spur. Get the proper pitch for whatever you're using, there's no gain in cutting corners here.
#7723

Another thing about diff... Are there any 3rd party which produces the cover up ver of diff. At least this saves time than replacing diff seal.
#7724

Another thing about diff balls..

http://www.tpracing.com.my/main.htm click on general parts/bearings
Which ceramic balls are consider reliable. I brought the CDB-3 but to my dismay the reliablle not as good compare with original tamiya steel balls. Eventually after few runs I got cracking sound on my diff. Although after service prob still persist. After replacing with the ori Tamiya steel balls all fine.

http://www.tpracing.com.my/main.htm click on general parts/bearings
Which ceramic balls are consider reliable. I brought the CDB-3 but to my dismay the reliablle not as good compare with original tamiya steel balls. Eventually after few runs I got cracking sound on my diff. Although after service prob still persist. After replacing with the ori Tamiya steel balls all fine.
#7725

hey guys,
can I swap the original gearing for the pitch 48?
the case is I have a lot of 48p stuff that i used on my TC5 and i donīt really want to change for the tamiya one.
can I swap the original gearing for the pitch 48?
the case is I have a lot of 48p stuff that i used on my TC5 and i donīt really want to change for the tamiya one.