CRC's New Generation-X.... Your Thoughts?
#376
Originally Posted by akura2
Thanks... that thread is almost a year old... half the pics are missing... and most of the ones that are left are body-off... I set up a thread for both body-on and body-off pics of recent cars... so feel fre to post
and thanks for the link.. there are some setups in there that I can get some ideas from
and thanks for the link.. there are some setups in there that I can get some ideas from
http://teamcrc.com/crc/images/storie.../MB-car_01.jpg
#377
here's mine, anyone else
#378
Tech Adept
wally no wonder that car is slow no motor or tires
but at least its not on fire
just joking buddy
Lou
but at least its not on fire
just joking buddy
Lou
#379
Originally Posted by look
wally no wonder that car is slow no motor or tires
but at least its not on fire
just joking buddy
Lou
but at least its not on fire
just joking buddy
Lou
#380
Tech Apprentice
Twitchy under acceleration.
I love this car. I just have issues with it under acceleration. I cant get it to go in a straight line when I hit the gas. My car has an Associated front end and I am running a 19 turn motor, with purple fronts and gray rears. Ride is about 4 mm and the front end tweak is correct. Copper center and white rear springs. I have ordered the original front end for the car to give that a try. I am not sure what front springs are on it. When I purchased the car they were already installed. (Second hand car). The car just has way to much steering for me very quick response, Twitchy. I can get it to push by take out center spring preload however doesn't seem to make the acceleration problem go away. I have cleaned all the bearings and made sure the car rolls free. The battery is in the forward position. I am looking for any suggestions on what I can try to eliminate this problem. I must also mention I am new to 12th scale. I am used to running pan cars and my XRay TC.
Thanks for the help
Jack
Thanks for the help
Jack
#381
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
jackh Heres a few thngs to check for the pulling.
-Tweak. Lift car from center of chassis from front or back of pod and make sure both wheels lift at exactly the same time.
-preload on side springs is equal
-preload on front spring (or no preload or droop) is equal per side.
-axle is centered in rear pod.
-tires are very nearly equal diameter per side
-chunk in one sidewall of rear tire, but not the other
As for it being twitchy:
-make sure circles are equal size and then make them bigger by 0.5' and try again.
-heavier front spring or softer center or softer side or lighter dampening in side tubes or hvy lube on front king pins.
-harder front or softer rear (black or purple Parma fronts and pink rears)
-softer oil in center shock (not a big change).
-more caster
-less camber
-less toe out
-Tweak. Lift car from center of chassis from front or back of pod and make sure both wheels lift at exactly the same time.
-preload on side springs is equal
-preload on front spring (or no preload or droop) is equal per side.
-axle is centered in rear pod.
-tires are very nearly equal diameter per side
-chunk in one sidewall of rear tire, but not the other
As for it being twitchy:
-make sure circles are equal size and then make them bigger by 0.5' and try again.
-heavier front spring or softer center or softer side or lighter dampening in side tubes or hvy lube on front king pins.
-harder front or softer rear (black or purple Parma fronts and pink rears)
-softer oil in center shock (not a big change).
-more caster
-less camber
-less toe out
#383
Tech Elite
iTrader: (40)
Rayhaug - Nice list of items!!
I second the underlined item - check that the the distance from the centerline of the chassis to the outside of the rear wheel is the same on both sides. I have a STUPID amount of shims in my car. Also while you are at it get the car to the max rear wheel width, you will not be sorry.
On the "Twitchy" stearing, you might also try a wider front track, as my re-flexes have slowed down with, yes, age. It has really helped!!
I second the underlined item - check that the the distance from the centerline of the chassis to the outside of the rear wheel is the same on both sides. I have a STUPID amount of shims in my car. Also while you are at it get the car to the max rear wheel width, you will not be sorry.
On the "Twitchy" stearing, you might also try a wider front track, as my re-flexes have slowed down with, yes, age. It has really helped!!
#384
Tech Apprentice
Sorry for my stupidity but is there a knotch or a mark that denotes the center line of the chassis? As for ballanceing, do you achive 50/50 by moving things around or by using your perload screws on the rear springs? And what about front to rear weight. Thanks for all the help guys.
Jack
Jack
#385
Originally Posted by Grenade10
Rayhaug - Nice list of items!!
I second the underlined item - check that the the distance from the centerline of the chassis to the outside of the rear wheel is the same on both sides. I have a STUPID amount of shims in my car. Also while you are at it get the car to the max rear wheel width, you will not be sorry.
On the "Twitchy" stearing, you might also try a wider front track, as my re-flexes have slowed down with, yes, age. It has really helped!!
I second the underlined item - check that the the distance from the centerline of the chassis to the outside of the rear wheel is the same on both sides. I have a STUPID amount of shims in my car. Also while you are at it get the car to the max rear wheel width, you will not be sorry.
On the "Twitchy" stearing, you might also try a wider front track, as my re-flexes have slowed down with, yes, age. It has really helped!!
Which shims are you using to adjust rear track width?
#386
Try getting 50/50 wieght distribution running a GTB!!!!
#388
Tech Apprentice
I have seen a bubble balancer in the pits of others. Who make them?? HUDY?
#389
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Originally Posted by jackh
I have seen a bubble balancer in the pits of others. Who make them?? HUDY?
#390
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by jackh
Sorry for my stupidity but is there a knotch or a mark that denotes the center line of the chassis? As for ballanceing, do you achive 50/50 by moving things around or by using your perload screws on the rear springs? And what about front to rear weight. Thanks for all the help guys.
Jack
Jack
Take a straight edge down the center of the car using the screws for the antennae and football screw or whatevers down there and mark the front and then the rear. I use a hobby knife and make a slight V and then fill it in with a silver sharpie-but methods can vary.
Ray