Team Losi JRXS Type-R
Tech Apprentice
Hi,
Do you have any update on the diff project ?
When do you expect that you will be able to release this part.
In my opnion this is the only really bad part in this car. For the rest i love it.
Also the delring oudrives for the spool would be great. Any news on them ?
Thanks
Do you have any update on the diff project ?
When do you expect that you will be able to release this part.
In my opnion this is the only really bad part in this car. For the rest i love it.
Also the delring oudrives for the spool would be great. Any news on them ?
Thanks
The cat is out of the bag. I have been testing a new diff recently. The diff on the losi is one of the main features of the car. Without the "inside out" diff the design of the car would not even be possible.
The problems I see with the standard diff is the amount of dirt that get into it on asphalt tracks and the way the diff ring slips on only one half of the diff. There should be no doubt that under power the left side( D ring) gets more drive than the right side(brass shim). We have tried the "D ring" mod and all it does is grind away at the inside of the pully. I am very close to a good solution.
I am also testing some parts that are used on the inside of the diff tube that give a great tuning option on high grip surfaces. Can't say any more on that at the moment.
After breaking a couple of outdrives on the Flying Fox spool I will also soon release machined Delrin Outdrives. Looking at the broken Losi outdrives, I was very dissapointed with the material Losi used. Quite soft and brittle. The Flying Fox outdrives will be a massive improvement as Delrin is strong and has low frictional properties. They will last longer and allow your suspension to work smoother on power.
The problems I see with the standard diff is the amount of dirt that get into it on asphalt tracks and the way the diff ring slips on only one half of the diff. There should be no doubt that under power the left side( D ring) gets more drive than the right side(brass shim). We have tried the "D ring" mod and all it does is grind away at the inside of the pully. I am very close to a good solution.
I am also testing some parts that are used on the inside of the diff tube that give a great tuning option on high grip surfaces. Can't say any more on that at the moment.
After breaking a couple of outdrives on the Flying Fox spool I will also soon release machined Delrin Outdrives. Looking at the broken Losi outdrives, I was very dissapointed with the material Losi used. Quite soft and brittle. The Flying Fox outdrives will be a massive improvement as Delrin is strong and has low frictional properties. They will last longer and allow your suspension to work smoother on power.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
If you need to u/l a photo, take it with a low resolution camera of 3megapixels or lower. That will give you a photo size you can easily u/l to here.
As for this change.. I have tried a lot of different ackerman positions and like the kit setup the best. If you run less steering lock you can run the inside holes on the bellcrank for more steering everywhere.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
I ran overdrive on my spool for 2 years. It works great. But what do I know....
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
They were referring to overdriving the REAR tires, but I'd never accuse you of failing to read properly, nor would I accuse you of racing stock in the recent past. You are, however, guilty of being unnaturally tall and imposing, sir.
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Fairtrace is going to need some tissues for that nose that's bleeding right now. Dang that was rough. LOL
Overdrive the front, not the rear if you are going to overdrive something.
I still say there is nothing wrong with the stock diffs.
Overdrive the front, not the rear if you are going to overdrive something.
I still say there is nothing wrong with the stock diffs.
Agreed, the stock diffs are great. I think it's super that people are still thinking of ways to improve the car and develop new parts.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I'm having a hard time understanding what you mean. I assume you are referring to a direct link setup off the servo horn with now steering bellcrank system?
If you need to u/l a photo, take it with a low resolution camera of 3megapixels or lower. That will give you a photo size you can easily u/l to here.
As for this change.. I have tried a lot of different ackerman positions and like the kit setup the best. If you run less steering lock you can run the inside holes on the bellcrank for more steering everywhere.
If you need to u/l a photo, take it with a low resolution camera of 3megapixels or lower. That will give you a photo size you can easily u/l to here.
As for this change.. I have tried a lot of different ackerman positions and like the kit setup the best. If you run less steering lock you can run the inside holes on the bellcrank for more steering everywhere.
Remove the bell crank, take off the top deck, mount the servo on 1/12 servo mounts using links and a servo saver, then mount the top deck with 6mm of spacers under each mounting point so it has room to move.
My only problem then is keeping the battery held in place.
Tape the battery to the tray.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
Ditto.
I have a couple of trays now so I am planning on gluing them down to make quick and easy for me... It will just be a case of bolting the pack in rather then fiddling with the two separately.
And to everyone... Take it easy on Fairtrace.... He ran the chassis competitively for years so his input is worth listening to although possibly a bit out of date.
I have a couple of trays now so I am planning on gluing them down to make quick and easy for me... It will just be a case of bolting the pack in rather then fiddling with the two separately.
And to everyone... Take it easy on Fairtrace.... He ran the chassis competitively for years so his input is worth listening to although possibly a bit out of date.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Ditto.
I have a couple of trays now so I am planning on gluing them down to make quick and easy for me... It will just be a case of bolting the pack in rather then fiddling with the two separately.
And to everyone... Take it easy on Fairtrace.... He ran the chassis competitively for years so his input is worth listening to although possibly a bit out of date.
I have a couple of trays now so I am planning on gluing them down to make quick and easy for me... It will just be a case of bolting the pack in rather then fiddling with the two separately.
And to everyone... Take it easy on Fairtrace.... He ran the chassis competitively for years so his input is worth listening to although possibly a bit out of date.
Company Representative
iTrader: (6)
Take it easy? no sir!
he is "guilty of being unnaturally tall and imposing" for sure, I once told him he should run for the N.B.A not for the T.O.P
you will agree with me he's opinion is all good and worth it to pay attention if you ever seen him driving, full speed every corner!
damn Chewbacca! (if any one watched iic2009 on liverc )
Tech Apprentice
Correct me if I'm wrong:
Remove the bell crank, take off the top deck, mount the servo on 1/12 servo mounts using links and a servo saver, then mount the top deck with 6mm of spacers under each mounting point so it has room to move.
My only problem then is keeping the battery held in place.
Remove the bell crank, take off the top deck, mount the servo on 1/12 servo mounts using links and a servo saver, then mount the top deck with 6mm of spacers under each mounting point so it has room to move.
My only problem then is keeping the battery held in place.
Yesssssss
For the battery, thickness under the top deck with adhesive foam
Monday I'll try to post some pictures
Ciao Ciao
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)