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Old 08-10-2008, 01:31 PM   #7786
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Hey guys, I'm really struggling to get the weight down on my type r since moving to 5 cell brushless. Currently I'm at 1510g using a Nosram Matrix ISTC speedo, KO 302 RX, an AMB PT and EnerG 5 cell packs.

There are no additional weights on the car (although if I can shed enough weight I could do with a better balance) and there are no silly eye candy parts (apart from a red PRS spur adaptor and red Trinity servo mounts)

Any suggestions on how I can get it nearer the 1425g limit?
Cheers
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Old 08-10-2008, 03:14 PM   #7787
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Originally Posted by JRXS_chris View Post
Hey guys, I'm really struggling to get the weight down on my type r since moving to 5 cell brushless. Currently I'm at 1510g using a Nosram Matrix ISTC speedo, KO 302 RX, an AMB PT and EnerG 5 cell packs.

There are no additional weights on the car (although if I can shed enough weight I could do with a better balance) and there are no silly eye candy parts (apart from a red PRS spur adaptor and red Trinity servo mounts)

Any suggestions on how I can get it nearer the 1425g limit?
Cheers
Are you sure about that 1425 limit? 1525 is/has been the 6 cell requirement for some time, a 100g reduction is disproportionate to the 1 cell dropped.
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Old 08-10-2008, 03:16 PM   #7788
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Originally Posted by JRXS_chris View Post
Hey guys, I'm really struggling to get the weight down on my type r since moving to 5 cell brushless. Currently I'm at 1510g using a Nosram Matrix ISTC speedo, KO 302 RX, an AMB PT and EnerG 5 cell packs.

There are no additional weights on the car (although if I can shed enough weight I could do with a better balance) and there are no silly eye candy parts (apart from a red PRS spur adaptor and red Trinity servo mounts)

Any suggestions on how I can get it nearer the 1425g limit?
Cheers
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Old 08-10-2008, 03:25 PM   #7789
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Maybe a light weight body, like the ones from Protoform and Parma pse...
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Old 08-10-2008, 03:55 PM   #7790
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Which one?
Are the shorts too short or perfect?

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Old 08-10-2008, 06:02 PM   #7791
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the length is not a problem as I have cut them down a little its the thickness of the material around the ball joint as they rub the inside of the wheel rim when using certain pick up points.
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Old 08-10-2008, 11:03 PM   #7792
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Default Orion Platinum Two

Does anyone know the dimensions on the Orion Platinum Two? Can't seem to find it.
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Old 08-11-2008, 07:02 AM   #7793
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FWIW, if you are looking for standard ball cups get the Schumacher ball grippa's. You'll need pliers to pop them on and they are super smooth. Every car I've seen with the RPM's have binding problems.
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Old 08-11-2008, 08:26 AM   #7794
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does anyone have a set up for a really lose track for rubber asphalt. I have had problem at this track the car it lose all the way around, no front grip and no rear grip.
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Old 08-11-2008, 08:56 AM   #7795
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does anyone have a set up for a really lose track for rubber asphalt. I have had problem at this track the car it lose all the way around, no front grip and no rear grip.
Go with a softer set up package: 30 WT oil, 12lb springs in front, 10 lb rears, longer camber link positions, and 3 deg rear toe in...and you can also try mounting your wing further back on the body. This should be enough.
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Old 08-11-2008, 09:38 AM   #7796
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Go with a softer set up package: 30 WT oil, 12lb springs in front, 10 lb rears, longer camber link positions, and 3 deg rear toe in...and you can also try mounting your wing further back on the body. This should be enough.
I was running the 12lb springs in the front with the shocks laid down with a 40w oil
and the rear I had 10lb springs with 35w oil and the camber link was in the 5b position
and the wing was as far back as I could get it
I will try the longer link and the 30w oil next time and see what it does
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Old 08-11-2008, 09:59 AM   #7797
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Try also high roll centers (i think this is one of the first things to do on a lose track)
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Old 08-11-2008, 11:46 AM   #7798
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I tried fitting my SMC 28C 5000 into my JRX-S Type R with the plastic tray, and it fits well in that. But when I slide it into the car, I can't push the back of the battery all the way up because it hits the bottom of those two aluminum pieces that support the top shaft, and it also grinds against both of the pulleys. Is there a way I can modify the car, and not the battery to keep it ROAR legal? I was thinking about shaving down the two aluminum pieces, but what about the pulleys?
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Old 08-11-2008, 12:00 PM   #7799
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I tried fitting my SMC 28C 5000 into my JRX-S Type R with the plastic tray, and it fits well in that. But when I slide it into the car, I can't push the back of the battery all the way up because it hits the bottom of those two aluminum pieces that support the top shaft, and it also grinds against both of the pulleys. Is there a way I can modify the car, and not the battery to keep it ROAR legal? I was thinking about shaving down the two aluminum pieces, but what about the pulleys?
You will need to grind down the bulkheads to clear that pack. To clear the pulleys the easiest way is this. Take the pulley on the spur side apart, grind down the side with the teeth a little less than 1mm(make sure the belt still fits), then grind down the center of the other side where the pulley screws into it the same amount, try very hard to make this flat or else the pulley will wobble. Put them together at time to make sure the belt still fits, then you can shim the other side (pulley for the big belt) and you will get enough clearance. I also recommend taping the battery to the tray just in case, mine shifted on a hit and got into the belt.
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Old 08-11-2008, 06:20 PM   #7800
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You will need to grind down the bulkheads to clear that pack. To clear the pulleys the easiest way is this. Take the pulley on the spur side apart, grind down the side with the teeth a little less than 1mm(make sure the belt still fits), then grind down the center of the other side where the pulley screws into it the same amount, try very hard to make this flat or else the pulley will wobble. Put them together at time to make sure the belt still fits, then you can shim the other side (pulley for the big belt) and you will get enough clearance. I also recommend taping the battery to the tray just in case, mine shifted on a hit and got into the belt.
On the spur gear side pulley, isn't the piece without the teeth the thing that limits the side with the teeth from getting any closer, not the actual teeth. And when you say to shim the side with the pulley for the big belt, where and why would I put additional shims? Do you have any pictures, because I am not 100% sure how this works. Thanks.
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