Team Associated TC5
11-18-2009, 03:30 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
You'll probably find the body will absorb little more of the impact, probably not much but it could make a difference.
11-18-2009, 07:05 AM
Tech Adept
I have not tried the servo mod but if I did I think I would just servo tape it down to test first. Did you turn it so that the bit that turns on the servo (dont know the proper name for this) was towards the outside of the car? If so was the turnbuckle still at a big angle, because this might cause problems with steering throw.
As for the new bulkheads, the second benefit I can see is that the motor mount is attached directly to the bulkhead, and NOT screwed to the main chassis. With the standard mounts (also with the mod to the AE mounts) you have to screw the motor mount to the chassis, which ultimately acts like one bulkhead is longer than the other. This is not good for flex, and might make the car handle different left to right.
I had previously ran the stock bulkheads but without the screw connecting the motor plate to the bulkhead to alleviate this problem, but got worried about the pinion coming away from the spur during high flex situations, so I bought the new bulkheads.
Another bonus I just remembered is that the layshaft sits 5mm lower on the aftermarket bulkheads. It is a pain if you want to remove your layshaft or change spur, but it lowers the CG slightly. I am not sure how great that is, but I think there is a feeling in this hobby that high layshafts are bad, I just can't figure out why it is so heinous, except for a slight increase in CG.
Regards
Neal
As for the new bulkheads, the second benefit I can see is that the motor mount is attached directly to the bulkhead, and NOT screwed to the main chassis. With the standard mounts (also with the mod to the AE mounts) you have to screw the motor mount to the chassis, which ultimately acts like one bulkhead is longer than the other. This is not good for flex, and might make the car handle different left to right.
I had previously ran the stock bulkheads but without the screw connecting the motor plate to the bulkhead to alleviate this problem, but got worried about the pinion coming away from the spur during high flex situations, so I bought the new bulkheads.
Another bonus I just remembered is that the layshaft sits 5mm lower on the aftermarket bulkheads. It is a pain if you want to remove your layshaft or change spur, but it lowers the CG slightly. I am not sure how great that is, but I think there is a feeling in this hobby that high layshafts are bad, I just can't figure out why it is so heinous, except for a slight increase in CG.
Regards
Neal
I did the servo mod like the pics that have been posted further back in the thread, just the aluminum servo mount sits about 0.5-1mm off the chassis, the servo is behind the bulkhead and the turnbuckle has quite and angle towards the back, surely this cancels out any benefit the 90 degree servo flip has to begin with. also i find it very difficult to get the bellcrank hole exactly dead center, its a real mission to drill the piece dead center, so that hole is about 0.1-02mm off center, i dont know if this will cause any problems, thats why i would prefer to do Rick Hohwarts suggestion of the RC8 servo horn, which is suppose to give the same effect.
Someone posted also earlier about grinding the motor mount to be inline, looks easy enough to do, and looks good, not sure about the flex, as many cars has this 1-piece bulkhead scenario. Ofcourse the layshaft wont be lower, but Rick has mentioned a lower CG has no real advantage, its just the perception people have that it must be the bomb if its lower, which isnt the case.
Peace..
11-18-2009, 07:49 AM
Hi
I did the servo mod like the pics that have been posted further back in the thread, just the aluminum servo mount sits about 0.5-1mm off the chassis, the servo is behind the bulkhead and the turnbuckle has quite and angle towards the back, surely this cancels out any benefit the 90 degree servo flip has to begin with. also i find it very difficult to get the bellcrank hole exactly dead center, its a real mission to drill the piece dead center, so that hole is about 0.1-02mm off center, i dont know if this will cause any problems, thats why i would prefer to do Rick Hohwarts suggestion of the RC8 servo horn, which is suppose to give the same effect.
Someone posted also earlier about grinding the motor mount to be inline, looks easy enough to do, and looks good, not sure about the flex, as many cars has this 1-piece bulkhead scenario. Ofcourse the layshaft wont be lower, but Rick has mentioned a lower CG has no real advantage, its just the perception people have that it must be the bomb if its lower, which isnt the case.
Peace..
I did the servo mod like the pics that have been posted further back in the thread, just the aluminum servo mount sits about 0.5-1mm off the chassis, the servo is behind the bulkhead and the turnbuckle has quite and angle towards the back, surely this cancels out any benefit the 90 degree servo flip has to begin with. also i find it very difficult to get the bellcrank hole exactly dead center, its a real mission to drill the piece dead center, so that hole is about 0.1-02mm off center, i dont know if this will cause any problems, thats why i would prefer to do Rick Hohwarts suggestion of the RC8 servo horn, which is suppose to give the same effect.
Someone posted also earlier about grinding the motor mount to be inline, looks easy enough to do, and looks good, not sure about the flex, as many cars has this 1-piece bulkhead scenario. Ofcourse the layshaft wont be lower, but Rick has mentioned a lower CG has no real advantage, its just the perception people have that it must be the bomb if its lower, which isnt the case.
Peace..
Regards
Neal
11-18-2009, 08:26 AM
For those that are worried about the flex difference between one-piece and two-piece bulkheads, you can make the following modification.
When you use the standard two-piece setup (in line or stock), you can remove or shorten the bulkhead's front leg and remove the screw. Mount the bulkhead using the rear chassis screw and the bulkhead screw. By doing this the flex should be equal side to side.
I have run the car this way on and off and can't tell a difference either way.
When you use the standard two-piece setup (in line or stock), you can remove or shorten the bulkhead's front leg and remove the screw. Mount the bulkhead using the rear chassis screw and the bulkhead screw. By doing this the flex should be equal side to side.
I have run the car this way on and off and can't tell a difference either way.
11-18-2009, 01:40 PM
Hey guys,
Just thought I would post here to tell you that I have posted in this thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...alculator.html
It is a visual basic program that calculates the roll centres and camber gain for various suspension setups. I added a post with the measurements for the TC5 so if you input the numbers (hopefully the writer can add the TC5 into the program for you) you can see the effect of different setups.
Nothing can beat track feedback but I found it interesting to see what the changes do in theory.
Regards
Neal
Just thought I would post here to tell you that I have posted in this thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...alculator.html
It is a visual basic program that calculates the roll centres and camber gain for various suspension setups. I added a post with the measurements for the TC5 so if you input the numbers (hopefully the writer can add the TC5 into the program for you) you can see the effect of different setups.
Nothing can beat track feedback but I found it interesting to see what the changes do in theory.
Regards
Neal
11-20-2009, 11:34 AM
Hey guys , need some help, how do you know how tight too make the belts front and rear ,or what is a good starting point.Thanks in advance.
11-20-2009, 12:55 PM
I set my belt loose as possible but not skip.
11-20-2009, 04:06 PM
Suspended
Oh dear..... at our club tonight.. another associated bent motor mount (standard not moved in)
Fresh off the track..
and removed from car with the culprit!
Guess i'm just lying this time though as well...
Fresh off the track..
and removed from car with the culprit!
Guess i'm just lying this time though as well...
11-20-2009, 04:08 PM
11-20-2009, 04:13 PM
Suspended
Odd thing was, he hit no other car and no car hit him... just the fire hose filled with grit/gravel which you can see in the back ground of the photo below... rolled it and he came down on the hose motor side so I suppose thats the cause.... odd really as the hose moves pretty easy and it's only filled with gravel
11-20-2009, 04:14 PM
Odd thing was, he hit no other car and no car hit him... just the fire hose filled with grit/gravel which you can see in the back ground of the photo below... he did come down on the hose motor side so I suppose thats the cause.... odd really as the hose moves pretty easy and it's only filled with gravel
11-20-2009, 04:17 PM
Is it just me or is the motor mount in the car bent opposite than the one not in the car?
11-20-2009, 04:20 PM
Suspended
Ayeeee weird..... hmmm maybe he showed me his old one he bent then (it was his I posted up before)... but the top picture is the one he did tonight anyway...
2nd one he's done now and both have been borrowed ones from his mate
2nd one he's done now and both have been borrowed ones from his mate
11-20-2009, 05:00 PM
I gather from the picture he is not using the front screw in the motor bulkhead.
11-21-2009, 12:55 PM
Hey all, I picked up the new Associated lipo battery retainer, what weight are you running to get the car balanced with it?
I'm using an SMC 5000 and I have to go up to about 1480 grams to get the car balanced left/right. I'm running an old futaba s9402 servo that I had, towerhobbies specs say it is 55g. Other than that I'm running a normal setup, I do have the associated heatsink on the motor.
I'm using an SMC 5000 and I have to go up to about 1480 grams to get the car balanced left/right. I'm running an old futaba s9402 servo that I had, towerhobbies specs say it is 55g. Other than that I'm running a normal setup, I do have the associated heatsink on the motor.