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Old 10-23-2008, 05:34 PM   #7651
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Old 10-23-2008, 06:16 PM   #7652
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Ran for the first time on carpet with rubber tires, jaco blues. The car ran great on a very low med traction carpet.
I did not have any ITF chassis parts yet. I ran Josh's IIC set up to the "T"
except for the ITF parts. The car kept getting faster as I compensated for the added weight to make the minimum.
It was a little loose, but quite fast.
Thanks Josh for the great set up.
God Bless

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Old 10-23-2008, 08:01 PM   #7653
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I used the rubber setup from the tc5R manual for my first run yesterday. How would you describe the handling differences between that setup and the two of Josh's that have recently been posted and discussed?

Thanks
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:28 PM   #7654
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Josh likes an aggressive handling car. I'm running his IIC setup except i've lengthened the rear camber links and lowered the ball studs on the hubs to raise the roll center a little bit cause the rear end was way too loose for me.
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:29 PM   #7655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
Are there any alloy parts TC5 owners would like to see released?
Integy sells the steering blocks,rear hubs,caster blocks and a unique servo saver,diggity desings have 6 deg caster blocks!!
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:54 PM   #7656
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Hello,i have a tc5f am running a 98tooth spur gear and a 39 tooth pinion 64 pitch am running a novak ss 13.5 the temp never goes over 130 but i wanna go faster with out overheating what do you guys recomend?
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Old 10-24-2008, 05:22 AM   #7657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsaves View Post
Ran for the first time on carpet with rubber tires, jaco blues. The car ran great on a very low med traction carpet.
I did not have any ITF chassis parts yet. I ran Josh's IIC set up to the "T"
except for the ITF parts. The car kept getting faster as I compensated for the added weight to make the minimum.
It was a little loose, but quite fast.
Thanks Josh for the great set up.
God Bless

TC5
Tekin RS with 17.5
SMC 4000 lipo
I'm glad you like the setup.

The itf parts will help with traction. Don't be afraid to sauce the rear tires for much longer than the fronts. That will help lock the car in.

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Old 10-24-2008, 05:33 AM   #7658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AssocRacer View Post
Josh likes an aggressive handling car. I'm running his IIC setup except i've lengthened the rear camber links and lowered the ball studs on the hubs to raise the roll center a little bit cause the rear end was way too loose for me.
I think aggressive is the wrong word.
I like a car that turns, but never breaks the rear end loose.
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Old 10-24-2008, 09:15 PM   #7659
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Thanks for all of the set up tips that everyone has posted. After spending time with the car today, I turned an undrivable car down to consistant mid 15 sec. laps. I even got a few 15 flats.
The fast lap on the layout was a mid 14 sec lap.


Thanks again
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Old 10-24-2008, 10:38 PM   #7660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntc3racing View Post
Integy sells the steering blocks,rear hubs,caster blocks and a unique servo saver,diggity desings have 6 deg caster blocks!!
Is anyone else not impressed with Integys steering blocks & rear hubs? I bought both and bearings didn't fit well The servo saver was nice but I wish they matched the color better with the other aluminum AE parts

btw: Diggity Designs caster blocks fit very well!
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:27 PM   #7661
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Is anyone else not impressed with Integys steering blocks & rear hubs? I bought both and bearings didn't fit well The servo saver was nice but I wish they matched the color better with the other aluminum AE parts

btw: Diggity Designs caster blocks fit very well!
just put a little bit of grease around the out side of the bearings and that helps put them in and out smooth!!!!and those caster blocks are great!!!!!!!!
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Old 10-25-2008, 02:39 AM   #7662
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Ran Joels setup from the ETS last night - started the car with it exactly as per the setup sheet except I'm running 13.5 at our track - quite a tight twisty layout but with reasonable grip. Tires were Sorex 32's. Additive was JtG. I don't use LW shells for club racing so it was a std weight Mazda6. It was at my track which I know like the back of my hand lol.

I constantly was breaking the driveshaft blades in the spool, nearly one every run. I removed the spacers from the front arm mounts - which narrowed up the front track width, and the problem went away (anyone got any other advice??).

As well as narrowing the front, throughout the night I removed the rear roll bar, moved the steering links forward on the bellcrank, and switched to a Speed6 shell. Was very happy with the car by the end of it.

Additive times were 20 mins on rear and 5 mins on front (both full width).
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Old 10-25-2008, 02:57 AM   #7663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catalyst View Post
+1 on the spur gear hub.

Add to that the arm mount spacer kit in alloy, as the plastic ones tend to pinch bad over time and I've seen variance in toe due to this with equal spacers used.

Also perhaps the battery bar stand offs.

Doubt I'd get aluminum castors, rear carriers or knuckles as I don't have any problems with the stock ones.

I've been using the 12R5 aluminium front rideheight spacers on the TC5 arm mounts. They are 0.5mm, 1mm and 2mm though, so one spacer is not 1 degree but you can still work with them. On the plastic spacers one degree is .030 in which is about 0.8mm.
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Old 10-25-2008, 06:11 AM   #7664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntc3racing View Post
Hello,i have a tc5f am running a 98tooth spur gear and a 39 tooth pinion 64 pitch am running a novak ss 13.5 the temp never goes over 130 but i wanna go faster with out overheating what do you guys recomend?
gear up your FDR right now is about 5.. most 13.5 guys are running mid 4's depending on the layout.. try a 96/41 (about 4.7) and see what the temp is, as long as its under 170*f, its good
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Old 10-25-2008, 06:34 AM   #7665
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
gear up your FDR right now is about 5.. most 13.5 guys are running mid 4's depending on the layout.. try a 96/41 (about 4.7) and see what the temp is, as long as its under 170*f, its good

I agree you should run around a 4.7 however this will depend on the Diameter of your foams. I run 96/40 for 58 mm foams and once I get down just under 57mm on the foams I switch to 96/41 and once I get to 56 mm I go to 96/42. It runs right at the 170* mark.

If you are not wanting to run the motor on the edge then with 58 mm run 96/40 until you are at 56 mm then switch to 96/41.
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Last edited by Gain Time; 10-25-2008 at 06:35 AM. Reason: I need an editor cuz I make too darn many mistakes.
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