padailey

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys gonna jump into the TC5 arena this weekend so I have a couple questions. I'll be running 13.5 rubber on carpet.. so as I look at setups all rubber setups I've seen so far have the ITF chassis. Well I won't have the ITF for awhile so what adjustments do you think need to be made to use the stock chassis?

Thanks,

Paul

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Paul, I don't think you will have to make to many changes. If the setup calls for the 4 o-rings in the back I would definately do that. Otherwise, the chassis will work on rubber tires without any problems. I have done it for awhile now until I got the other chassis.

Scottmisfits

iTrader: (7)

Droop is something that you set with no weight on the shocks. Setting them at 6 and 7 to the bottom of the hinge pin is fine but I can't get ride height with it.

I'm not trying this for foam tire racing. With foam tire racing droop is not really used. It would be more down travel. Set your ride height at the start and then limit how far you can lift the car before the wheels will lift from the ground. Kinda the same but different with droop. It doesn't change from the beginning to the end of the run.

PitNamedGordie

iTrader: (8)

huh?

Both things you described are droop. You can set it using a droop gauge or you can set it "above ride hieght". But both are droop settings.

hourocket3

So if you use the droop guage with the tires off and shocks removed and want to set your rear droop to 7 (like with the Cleveland setup) you measure it at the end of the arms to 7, then put everything on and set ride hight, correct? This seems really simple but I have searched around and everyone seems to have a different explanation or way of doing it.

Mitchell

iTrader: (15)

hey i got my tc5 runnin finally. it seems to be going really slow. im running a 13.5 pro motor with gtb and a fdr of 5.06 but its not getting hot at all could it possibly be the timing ring? how do you change the timing? thanks

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

I ran 13.5 with the stock chassis and the car was fine. You can use the 4 o-rings in the rear but I think that should only be used if you were looking for a bit more rear traction.

PitNamedGordie

iTrader: (8)

You don't need to mess with the timing. You're geared too high. Go up a couple of teeth on your pinion. If you are around 150 degrees or so you're good. I run around 4.7 fdr.

Mitchell

iTrader: (15)

thanks mate. i cant go up in teeth for pinion as my lhs dosnt stock anything hiigher then 32 and i dont really wanna wait for 1 off the net maybe just go down in spur.

adamge

iTrader: (1)

Tell your LHS that 2008 and beyond is the era of brushless. The pinions now look like spurs, motors are 2-3 times as expensive, and rubber tires are relevant.

Shev

iTrader: (13)

hi, I've had a problem with wheels on the TC5 coming off about 4mins into a race. I've changed the stub axles - but there's still a wobble in wheel. I'm using nylock nuts. I'm starting to wonder if it's the CVDs. Has anyone else had an issue with this? Thanks for your help in advance.

Shev

Victory Side

iTrader: (10)

Are you running 64p or 48p. In 64p Im running 114 spur 45 pinion

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Shev, if you are using the nylon nuts I would suspect that is the cause of the wobble and not the stub axles. What happened to the original metal lock nuts? I still have the kit ones on my car and have not had any issues.

Mitchell

iTrader: (15)

48p. its all kool now i found a pretty good fdr (4.56 73t spur with 32t pinion) didnt have much time to test it, its raining at the moment and the bitcuman was wet so yeah.

Shev- do your wheels wobble because of the slop in the steering, i have that aswell

topekoms

im using 115t spur and 44pinion....and motor gets really really really hot...oh im using 4.5LRP brushless with lrp sphere....i dont have the capacitor on the speed control though....is my gearing wrong? or is it cuz i dont have the capacitor? (the cap burnt!)