26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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02-04-2016, 09:31 PM
#1906
Has anyone used the gear diff from the rtr 22? My local shop owner runs a gear diff in his 3.0, and its awesome on carpet. I should have my new 3.0 on Monday and im excited to get it built. Any suggestions or tricks with these? Im brand new to 1/10 scale 2wd so this should be interesting.
02-05-2016, 06:13 AM
#1908
Has anyone used the gear diff from the rtr 22? My local shop owner runs a gear diff in his 3.0, and its awesome on carpet. I should have my new 3.0 on Monday and im excited to get it built. Any suggestions or tricks with these? Im brand new to 1/10 scale 2wd so this should be interesting.
Oh! You will want to replace the O rings on the inside of the outdrive with Kyosho ORG05. Otherwise the diff will probably leak. Others replace the outer outdrive seal as well, but I just use the black ring that comes with the diff. So far, I find the inner seal is what makes the difference. If you're running just an open diff with grease, the stock seals are fine; however, if you're filling the diff with diff fluid you will want to upgrade those seals.
Thanks!
02-05-2016, 11:06 AM
#1912
For a short, tight track (about 16 seconds per lap) I'm running the gear diff with only one pair of bevel gears and 5k AE diff fluid. I've only been doing this RC racing stuff for a year, but for my ability to push the buggy, I'm not diffing out anywhere. I also have plenty of steering and rotation in the tight turns, even with Schumacher Mini Pins on the rear.
Oh! You will want to replace the O rings on the inside of the outdrive with Kyosho ORG05. Otherwise the diff will probably leak. Others replace the outer outdrive seal as well, but I just use the black ring that comes with the diff. So far, I find the inner seal is what makes the difference. If you're running just an open diff with grease, the stock seals are fine; however, if you're filling the diff with diff fluid you will want to upgrade those seals.
Oh! You will want to replace the O rings on the inside of the outdrive with Kyosho ORG05. Otherwise the diff will probably leak. Others replace the outer outdrive seal as well, but I just use the black ring that comes with the diff. So far, I find the inner seal is what makes the difference. If you're running just an open diff with grease, the stock seals are fine; however, if you're filling the diff with diff fluid you will want to upgrade those seals.
02-05-2016, 11:28 AM
#1913
The chassis stiffener is actually two pieces, an upper and a lower layer. The servo mounts only rest on the lower stiffener so I needed extra screws in that area to clamp the top stiffener down to the chassis. My original design did not have these screws and had a severe amount of flex as a result. I could probably get rid of one of the screws up front, but I feel more confident in the design having it there.
02-05-2016, 11:36 AM
#1914
The chassis stiffener is actually two pieces, an upper and a lower layer. The servo mounts only rest on the lower stiffener so I needed extra screws in that area to clamp the top stiffener down to the chassis. My original design did not have these screws and had a severe amount of flex as a result. I could probably get rid of one of the screws up front, but I feel more confident in the design having it there.
http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp...EPX1_A_cn_E_33
Super glue would probably break apart over time due to chassis flex and lose it's tensile strength.
Cool project!
02-06-2016, 01:00 AM
#1915
So after being a long time yokomo driver I bit the bullet after driving one about a month ago and got rid of the yoks.
first race day today.... super impressed with the car, kit setup on a bumpy low-med outdoor track, the only change was brought the shock in on the rear arm and 1.6fr pistons.
Far out best 2wd i have ever driven. cant wait to drive it more!
Well done Frank and the TLR team for such a car!
first race day today.... super impressed with the car, kit setup on a bumpy low-med outdoor track, the only change was brought the shock in on the rear arm and 1.6fr pistons.
Far out best 2wd i have ever driven. cant wait to drive it more!
Well done Frank and the TLR team for such a car!
02-06-2016, 01:25 AM
#1916
My 22 is giving me no joy. Kit set up besides the 4 gear transmission to try and get some more grip. Car is very unsettled off jumps and tends to bounce around a lot, and finds every rut on the track, struggles between on power oversteer and off power understeer, I think I've placed dead last every time I've run it
Outdoor clay track low-medium grip, running rebar rears and vektor fronts. Fastest lap is 2-3 seconds down on the fast guys, Tekin RS Spec esc and 17.5 motor.
Outdoor clay track low-medium grip, running rebar rears and vektor fronts. Fastest lap is 2-3 seconds down on the fast guys, Tekin RS Spec esc and 17.5 motor.
02-06-2016, 06:42 AM
#1918
Nexxus, we've found that jumping/landing is a strength of this buggy. Check to see that your shocks aren't pressurized. Mine have taken on air at times and the symptom is usually as you described.
I also just changed to the 1.7r/1.6f piston combo that most of the team run and found it to make the car more forgiving of my shortcomings as a driver, less grabbing and crashes due to me not timing jumps well. Stock is great on higher bite/smooth but not as good on bumps. I haven't lost anything with this change that I've noticed.
I also just changed to the 1.7r/1.6f piston combo that most of the team run and found it to make the car more forgiving of my shortcomings as a driver, less grabbing and crashes due to me not timing jumps well. Stock is great on higher bite/smooth but not as good on bumps. I haven't lost anything with this change that I've noticed.
02-06-2016, 01:44 PM
#1919
So after being a long time yokomo driver I bit the bullet after driving one about a month ago and got rid of the yoks.
first race day today.... super impressed with the car, kit setup on a bumpy low-med outdoor track, the only change was brought the shock in on the rear arm and 1.6fr pistons.
Far out best 2wd i have ever driven. cant wait to drive it more!
Well done Frank and the TLR team for such a car!
first race day today.... super impressed with the car, kit setup on a bumpy low-med outdoor track, the only change was brought the shock in on the rear arm and 1.6fr pistons.
Far out best 2wd i have ever driven. cant wait to drive it more!
Well done Frank and the TLR team for such a car!
I'm going to try 1.6 - 32.5 front and 1.7 - 30 rear as my only change from kit set up.
