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Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 02-09-2016, 06:56 AM   #1336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rekim View Post
i cant speak for breaking parts as i havent broken any. I have the carpet edition, and it comes with 2 sets of arms for the front and the rear, and some other parts as double for medium and hard. i dont know if the dirt will have similar since it isnt released yet.

as far as the horn, mine came with 3 plastic horns, i think it was 23 to 25 tooth.

for the electronics, i had a bit of a hard time fitting my r10. i eventually was able to get it fit nicely, but i had some issues because i wanted to route my wires nicely.

i cant say enough about this truck. it is really terrific
I love how it came with pretty much two sets of everything plastic, I have emergency spares lol. For servo arm I am using a CORE alloy arm, there is a lot of clearance on the XB2 so pretty much any alloy arm works. For electrics I am running a Savox 1257, a SP Reventon 1.1EX and very small Orange rx. Everything fits fine and I was able to run my motor wires and sensor cable down the side like designed. Servo any bigger than the 1257 would be a nightmare though, ideally you would want to run a 1251 size servo for maximum electric room.
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:59 AM   #1337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Did you break one?
Mhm just driving along and it snapped where others have also. Apparently it's user error due to not enough loctite but I'm not buying that answer. Didn't wanna really bring it up on rctech but others should know about the issue.

Rc America is taking care of me and shooting it off to Xray. On a plus note.. Rc America will be getting the front brass kickups this week.
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:30 AM   #1338
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Quote:
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Mhm just driving along and it snapped where others have also. Apparently it's user error due to not enough loctite but I'm not buying that answer. Didn't wanna really bring it up on rctech but others should know about the issue.

Rc America is taking care of me and shooting it off to Xray. On a plus note.. Rc America will be getting the front brass kickups this week.
Is that an aluminum piece that snapped like that?
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:12 AM   #1339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Is that an aluminum piece that snapped like that?
yes
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:51 AM   #1340
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Is that an aluminum piece that snapped like that?
Yep and according to Xray and another guy that posts here, it's all my fault because I didn't use enough loctite. The hanger was plenty tight and never came lose. Don't follow the actual Xray manual and make sure you use loctite to avoid the "issue."
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:06 AM   #1341
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Thanks for everyone's feedback. Nice to go into a new model with some experience from actual owners. I'll be placing the pre-order today

The last time I raced off-road buggy was from the brushed days, so I have no idea where to gear this thing. Anyone have a rough starting point FDR for 17.5 blinky so I can make sure I have the right spurs/pinions?
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:26 AM   #1342
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I can't tell from the picture...did it break at the screw hole, or just outside of it?
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:30 AM   #1343
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75/34 or 35 for starters with a 17.5

Any suggests for gearing a 8.5 with a 78 spur?
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:32 AM   #1344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Yep and according to Xray and another guy that posts here, it's all my fault because I didn't use enough loctite. The hanger was plenty tight and never came lose. Don't follow the actual Xray manual and make sure you use loctite to avoid the "issue."
LOL

Is that broken where the screw threads in? Looks like the hanger is simply weakened by the loss of material. Actually, if you don't use Loctite and if the part was loose, it would have a better chance of not cracking there; the hinge pin would have a higher chance of deforming the insert (or pulling out of it) vs. cracking the hanger. But I digress...
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:37 AM   #1345
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Team Orion has a link to their instruction manual that provides some recommended final drive ratios. Follow the link at the bottom of this page:

http://www.teamorion.com/vortex-vst2...8.5t-en-2.html

This should help you with finding a starting point for your 8.5t motor...
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:41 AM   #1346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace View Post
75/34 or 35 for starters with a 17.5
Quote:
Originally Posted by avaldes View Post
Team Orion has a link to their instruction manual that provides some recommended final drive ratios. Follow the link at the bottom of this page:

http://www.teamorion.com/vortex-vst2...8.5t-en-2.html
Perfect, thanks again guys. Can't wait for the dirt version to start shipping
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:42 AM   #1347
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I was using 81/26 but it was coming off at 200deg in blinky mode r10
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Old 02-09-2016, 12:42 PM   #1348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goehm View Post
LOL

Is that broken where the screw threads in? Looks like the hanger is simply weakened by the loss of material. Actually, if you don't use Loctite and if the part was loose, it would have a better chance of not cracking there; the hinge pin would have a higher chance of deforming the insert (or pulling out of it) vs. cracking the hanger. But I digress...
My thoughts exactly. But typical Xray, it's all my fault for it breaking. I love Xray but sometimes those antics really bother me. Just like how the rr hanger was offset wrong on the xb4 but the customers must be blind and dumb because it was perfect...uhhhhuh. Here's a closer picture.
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Old 02-09-2016, 12:45 PM   #1349
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Just backtracking a little here, in regards to rear shock placement. Would it be best to run shocks in front of rear arms with less droop to compensate for arm angle on high bite carpet. Hopefully Bent can clarify.
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Old 02-09-2016, 01:02 PM   #1350
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
My thoughts exactly. But typical Xray, it's all my fault for it breaking. I love Xray but sometimes those antics really bother me. Just like how the rr hanger was offset wrong on the xb4 but the customers must be blind and dumb because it was perfect...uhhhhuh. Here's a closer picture.
That was not caused by not using loctite. If you don't use loctite, the screw will back itself out (always use some when threading into alu). BUt break like that? Looks like defective material. I've seen COUNTLESS buggies with alu suspension holders running around the track, including novices crashing and burning like nobodies business, and have never see a piece like this break.
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