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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 02-24-2016, 03:31 AM   #1231
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Well I saw that krhodes12 was running the vented shocks too. Is is just the cap that is different or is there more to it? Also what advantages do vented shocks have over unvented/stock shocks?
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Old 02-24-2016, 04:06 AM   #1232
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I saw on the setup sheets that everyone was running vented shocks. Is the only difference the shock cap or is there more to get for a vented shock? Also what are the advantages of running a vented shock and how many of you guys run it?
The stock setup is a vented build, your aluminum caps that came with your kit and I assume you used have a hole in the side of the cap and and tiny hole at the top, so If you built by the book with those caps you are running the vented setup.
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Old 02-24-2016, 04:07 AM   #1233
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
I was just wondering the same thing...
X3
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Old 02-24-2016, 07:31 AM   #1234
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Originally Posted by werner sline View Post
what does it mean " arms cut at hingepin " ?
Some are experimenting with cutting part of the hingepin arm in the middle.
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Old 02-24-2016, 08:04 AM   #1235
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Some are experimenting with cutting part of the hingepin arm in the middle.
There's a "how to" video on this on the Tekno website.
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Old 02-24-2016, 08:52 AM   #1236
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
The XRay has to be geared lower on the motor pinion as it has a 12/40 diff ratio vs the tekno 10/40. Your 12 in that should be somewhat similar to 14 in the Tekno with the same motor.
Noted, I'll start with 14t pinion

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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Like justpoet said, the ring and pinions are different. Xray's ratio is 3.33:1 and ours is 4:1. So your 12/46 on the Xray yielded a 12.7778 FDR. To get the on the Tekno with the stock 44 tooth spur you would need a 13.77 tooth pinion, so I'd start with the 14.
Ah, I see, I forgot about the gear diff ratio. I don't know a lot about it, are there any good guides out there that explains that kind of stuff in details?
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Old 02-24-2016, 12:48 PM   #1237
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Originally Posted by Tampagoalie View Post
There's a "how to" video on this on the Tekno website.
I haven't seen a how to on Tekno's site about cutting the arms yet.
However, one of my videos covers what and where to do this if you want to. It is part of my tips tricks and techniques videos that I've been doing with my ET48.3 build. Almost everything will directly apply to the EB48.3 (and most of the other vehicles) as well.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 02-24-2016, 12:54 PM   #1238
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Originally Posted by RC Matt View Post
Well I saw that krhodes12 was running the vented shocks too. Is is just the cap that is different or is there more to it? Also what advantages do vented shocks have over unvented/stock shocks?
The first way to build is emulsion. It is called this because the shock fluid forms an emulsion with air bubbles when used, and the air bubbles compress to allow the shock shaft into the shock when it works. Emulsion typically works best when you want the vehicle to land like a wet rag and stick to the track, but not really great with huge jumps or lots of bumps. This is fairly common for smoother indoor and smaller jumps or smaller vehicles. The build consists of using the bleeder screw (composite shock caps required for emulsion build) out with a full shock to push the shock shaft up and in, seal it, then when you pull the shaft back out it sucks air in and stays as that emulsion mixture. There is no bladder in an emulsion build.

The second type is the "standard" build. So called because it requires nothing special, and is how most 10th scale shocks are done. The shock is built with a bladder, allowing excess oil to bleed out when you seal the bladder to the shock body by screwing the cap down. The bladder and the compressed air in the cap provide a rebound force, that shouldn't change, but is fairly strong at the top of the stroke when all of the air is compressed, making it have a progressive feel. These are generally the best for hard big landings as the extra force will help soak up the end of the landing as well as only make the start of the rebound quicker and stiffer, so your car can get back to handling again.

These are also the most common for bashers, not only because of big jump landing, but also because the whole system stays sealed, so requires the least amount of maintenance unless you blow a shock.


The third type of shock build is the "vented" build. The shock builds exactly the same as "standard", but there is a vent hole at the top of the shock cap so the bladder does all of the rebound work and doesn't also compress air. This gives a much more linear feel to the shock and is often used on faster moving shocks or on bumpy tracks to allow the vehicle tires to not pop up off of every bump it hits. On the plastic caps, this can be done by either drilling straight up the top (to the bushing hole), or through the bleeder screw hole. On the AL caps, the hole goes into the bushing area. This helps keep extra dirt from getting in there and affecting shock performance.


Most vehicles work best with the vented build, though the truggy is often built standard due to the longer arms and higher weight of the vehicle, with larger tire patch also working the foams more before the shock has to work.
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Old 02-24-2016, 01:11 PM   #1239
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
I haven't seen a how to on Tekno's site about cutting the arms yet.
However, one of my videos covers what and where to do this if you want to. It is part of my tips tricks and techniques videos that I've been doing with my ET48.3 build. Almost everything will directly apply to the EB48.3 (and most of the other vehicles) as well.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
My bad, Poet. I had watched your video and forgot where I saw it. Your vids are much appreciated!
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Old 02-24-2016, 06:12 PM   #1240
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I'm running my diffs stock so 5/5/5 (f/m/r). What can I do to make it drive easier? I would like it to turn easier so what should I get?
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Old 02-24-2016, 08:19 PM   #1241
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Originally Posted by RC Matt View Post
I'm running my diffs stock so 5/5/5 (f/m/r). What can I do to make it drive easier? I would like it to turn easier so what should I get?
It depends what you mean by "turn easier". If you want more turn in on entry, you should go lighter in the rear. Maybe try 3. This will also give more rear traction in corners. If you need more steering on exit, you might try thicker in front. Maybe try 7. I always like running 5/5/3 or 5/7/3 depending on the track. Hope that helps.
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Old 02-25-2016, 04:52 AM   #1242
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I've always liked 7-7-5 or even 7-7-4
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Old 02-25-2016, 05:31 AM   #1243
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7-7-5 is stock and works well for me. I'm experimenting with ptrc 10-10-7. Too, it depends on the type of track. Generally, loose track, lower wt diff oils, hard packed with more grip, higher wt oils.
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Old 02-25-2016, 05:39 AM   #1244
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ok I saw the vid too. good idea, mugen made this on their front arm.

but I broke them before the dust could even reach the hingepin !


Quote:
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My bad, Poet. I had watched your video and forgot where I saw it. Your vids are much appreciated!
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Old 02-25-2016, 12:39 PM   #1245
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Ok well I'll try out 7 in the front and Gstorm777 what motor are you running?
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