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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 03-01-2016, 01:40 PM
  #1261  
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There is a lot of adjustment in the car , and it is very responsive to changes. There is more than enough there to lame the rear end as much as you would like without having to resort to changing layouts around or adding weight . Since getting the .3 after having a .2 , I actually had to loosen the rear end up to get back to where I was.
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Old 03-01-2016, 01:54 PM
  #1262  
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interesting
what about jumping ? do you have to keep the throttle in the air to avoid a nose dive ?
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:33 PM
  #1263  
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Is it the higher the spring rate the stiffer the spring?
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Old 03-01-2016, 05:44 PM
  #1264  
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Originally Posted by RC Matt
Is it the higher the spring rate the stiffer the spring?
Yes. Red is stiffer than orange is stiffer than yellow, etc. Blue and purple are oddities because they weren't originally going to exist, but on the original EB48 car we needed stiffer springs in the rear for high traction tracks.
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Old 03-01-2016, 05:46 PM
  #1265  
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Originally Posted by werner sline
interesting
what about jumping ? do you have to keep the throttle in the air to avoid a nose dive ?
This is highly dependent on all of:
1) driving style
2) jump face construction/shape
3) setup

That being said, most of the time a buggy will jump fairly flat if you hold the same wheel speed after you leave the jump face. If you're accelerating up the jump face then you'll tend to have nose up, and if you're letting off and scrubbing or coasting then you'll tend to get a tiny bit of nose down. Since it is eBuggy though, all of those can easily be adjusted in air by use of trigger or brake, so we don't normally worry about it too much.
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:08 PM
  #1266  
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I think I mixed up... getting late here sorry.

Last edited by shannow; 03-01-2016 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:18 PM
  #1267  
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ok thank you guys. I was used to old school buggies that have much weight on the rear drive train
the mugen i ride now is like the eb48 : moder layout with much more weight on the front drivetrain
it's indeed better for tight turns but it flies differently !

anybody has a vid of a EB48 making a backflip ? didn't find one on youtube
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by justpoet
This is highly dependent on all of:
1) driving style
2) jump face construction/shape
3) setup

That being said, most of the time a buggy will jump fairly flat if you hold the same wheel speed after you leave the jump face. If you're accelerating up the jump face then you'll tend to have nose up, and if you're letting off and scrubbing or coasting then you'll tend to get a tiny bit of nose down. Since it is eBuggy though, all of those can easily be adjusted in air by use of trigger or brake, so we don't normally worry about it too much.
Well written.
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Old 03-01-2016, 09:47 PM
  #1269  
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Anyone running the lighter wings? ie proline trifecta clear, LFR, or the new jconcepts? Did you notice any handling differences with the rear? I am running the trifecta wing and now the rear end of my car is all over the place. Only thing I have done differently is the lighter wing. I have tried a few setup changes but still not getting the rear traction I had before the lighter wing. Anyone notice a difference, what did you do to compensate? I have tried 1. lowering camber link on tower 2. lengthening the camber link 3. shortening the camber link.....
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Old 03-02-2016, 06:18 AM
  #1270  
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I just got the new JConcepts Hybrid wing. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but it does look sick!

I'm late to the conversation (as always). I ran my 48.3 for the first time at Motorama and every time I came off the driver stand I had a big smile on my face. This car is just so fun to drive. I was SUPER impressed with the way it jumped and handled the rough stuff. To me, that's what makes or breaks a car. Every car can be made great on the ground. How it handles the big jumps and blown out sections is what makes or breaks you.

I ran Joe's Wicked Weekend setup with a few small changes.
Pink front springs
4 washers on the back of the steering spindle (mechanical steering stop)
32.5 wt oil fr and rr
changed the bump steer shims on on the spindle to 4-0 vs 3-1

Looking forward to an amazing season with Tekno!

Here's what I used:
EB48.3 (no option parts except pistons and springs)
Novak Activ8 V2
Novak HD8 geared 19-44
JConcepts Green Reflexs
Savox 1268HV
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Old 03-02-2016, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
Anyone running the lighter wings? ie proline trifecta clear, LFR, or the new jconcepts? Did you notice any handling differences with the rear? I am running the trifecta wing and now the rear end of my car is all over the place. Only thing I have done differently is the lighter wing. I have tried a few setup changes but still not getting the rear traction I had before the lighter wing. Anyone notice a difference, what did you do to compensate? I have tried 1. lowering camber link on tower 2. lengthening the camber link 3. shortening the camber link.....
You would want to raise the rear link on the tower for a lower roll center. With less weight up high , you are losing some of the roll , and lowering the link will make it roll even less. You may also be giving up some rear weight transfer when you get back on power, you can add a little more droop to the front or less anti squat and see what you get

I would go back to the exact set up you had , tape a half oz of weight under your light weight wing and see if that's really what the issue is ( I doubt it ) or if its kinda in your head.
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:59 AM
  #1272  
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Does anyone remember what page the universals are in but I remember talking about it at one point.
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Old 03-03-2016, 06:12 AM
  #1273  
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Originally Posted by wittyname
You would want to raise the rear link on the tower for a lower roll center. With less weight up high , you are losing some of the roll , and lowering the link will make it roll even less. You may also be giving up some rear weight transfer when you get back on power, you can add a little more droop to the front or less anti squat and see what you get

I would go back to the exact set up you had , tape a half oz of weight under your light weight wing and see if that's really what the issue is ( I doubt it ) or if its kinda in your head.
Maybe I was going the wrong way on the tower. I'll try that. Buying another wing shortly to see if that was really the issue. The rear is a lot looser than it was that is for sure. Thanks for your input.
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:13 PM
  #1274  
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Well I just ordered some shock shafts from Amain and the compatibility said that the front and the rear shock shafts fit the Tekno EB48.3 but they were wrong so now I have to return and order the extra long shock shafts. Now I have to wait another week or so to be able to run my buggy. Thanks Amain.
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RC Matt
Well I just ordered some shock shafts from Amain and the compatibility said that the front and the rear shock shafts fit the Tekno EB48.3 but they were wrong so now I have to return and order the extra long shock shafts. Now I have to wait another week or so to be able to run my buggy. Thanks Amain.
I use the manual to get part numbers and search in amain, etc. by part number. Don't trust what's on the website as far as deciding what fits.
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