219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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08-20-2015, 06:48 AM
#1966
I built mine with 1 shim on gear side as well, ran some packs thru it and rebuilt using 2 shims on gear side because it had broken in and needed them. Run it and adjust it after everything is broken in.
Built my shocks emulsion last night and put back together, still can't get lower than 28mm in front so bladder to emulsion build did nothing ride height wise like some thought possible. Just can't get it low with the Tekno springs and have no idea why some can and some cant.
Built my shocks emulsion last night and put back together, still can't get lower than 28mm in front so bladder to emulsion build did nothing ride height wise like some thought possible. Just can't get it low with the Tekno springs and have no idea why some can and some cant.
08-20-2015, 09:05 AM
#1967
Tech Initiate
Okay, I'll have to try notching my case, right now I have my front diff with one shim on the non-gear side. With it on the gear side it feels notchy.
08-20-2015, 11:58 AM
#1968
Hi guys,
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...Lewis_SDRC.pdf
Here's a new setup sheet for indoor clay that should also work for various outdoor conditions (go up in ride height).
We have heard about some customers having 'nose down' issues. A lot of this is track dependent, power dependent, body dependent, etc. And of course SC trucks tend to do this naturally anyway. In any case, if you are experiencing nose-diving, one of the best changes to make is less anti-squat.
Anti-squat loads the rear suspension on power and unloads off power. This 'throws' the vehicle all over the place. Through the years we have found that all of our vehicles do not respond well to anti-squat since our weight distribution is further forward than just about any other vehicle. Anti-squat is kind of a band-aid setting IMO and is better used on vehicles with more weight over the rear wheels.
Less anti-squat will allow you to enter corners at a higher speed without the rear end coming around as much when you let off the throttle. Additionally, it helps the trajectory immensely by not unloading the rear and throwing it forward.
We've seen a lot of discussion about springs, oil, etc. This matters too, but it won't help if you are running a lot of anti-squat. The stock setup has 3 degrees of anti-squat and works on smoother tracks with tighter turns. I have included a link to a new setup sheet that I encourage you to try if you are still having issues.
Other suspension things to consider if you are having nose down issues:
stiffer front spring
lighter rear spring (assuming you aren't chassis slapping)
thicker front oil
thinner rear oil (assuming you aren't chassis slapping)
less rear droop
Try out less anti-squat - Post your results here!
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...Lewis_SDRC.pdf
Here's a new setup sheet for indoor clay that should also work for various outdoor conditions (go up in ride height).
We have heard about some customers having 'nose down' issues. A lot of this is track dependent, power dependent, body dependent, etc. And of course SC trucks tend to do this naturally anyway. In any case, if you are experiencing nose-diving, one of the best changes to make is less anti-squat.
Anti-squat loads the rear suspension on power and unloads off power. This 'throws' the vehicle all over the place. Through the years we have found that all of our vehicles do not respond well to anti-squat since our weight distribution is further forward than just about any other vehicle. Anti-squat is kind of a band-aid setting IMO and is better used on vehicles with more weight over the rear wheels.
Less anti-squat will allow you to enter corners at a higher speed without the rear end coming around as much when you let off the throttle. Additionally, it helps the trajectory immensely by not unloading the rear and throwing it forward.
We've seen a lot of discussion about springs, oil, etc. This matters too, but it won't help if you are running a lot of anti-squat. The stock setup has 3 degrees of anti-squat and works on smoother tracks with tighter turns. I have included a link to a new setup sheet that I encourage you to try if you are still having issues.
Other suspension things to consider if you are having nose down issues:
stiffer front spring
lighter rear spring (assuming you aren't chassis slapping)
thicker front oil
thinner rear oil (assuming you aren't chassis slapping)
less rear droop
Try out less anti-squat - Post your results here!
08-20-2015, 12:18 PM
#1969
Thanks will give it a try although mine is really good as long as I'm running other companies springs on front. Will the different shock locations on tower on this setup help me get the ride height down in front? I'm at 28mm in front with Tekno pinks so a long way from the 22mm that setup calls for, suspension is free and shocks are built right and springs have many packs on them and shock ends are all the way on till ball binds then back off a touch . Love this truck and my SL buggy but spring issues on both.
08-20-2015, 12:29 PM
#1970
I am so glad to see you post this. I own an scte 2.0 and race on loose tracks mostly. When I built my truck I immediately reduced anti squat to half and moved my esc rearward to get a further back CG. My truck never has a nose dive issue and can actually "nose high" easily if the throttle isn't backed off of oncen airborne. I credit that mostly to a lower anti squat.
I have been trying to tell people this for a while now, but since I am not a pro, few listen and mostly argue the opposite.
Soon as my girlfriend's tekno comes in that will be one of the first things I suggest she do from initial build.
I have been trying to tell people this for a while now, but since I am not a pro, few listen and mostly argue the opposite.
Soon as my girlfriend's tekno comes in that will be one of the first things I suggest she do from initial build.
08-20-2015, 03:40 PM
#1971
That set-up says 0 anti squat. ! degree down on the C block and 1 degree 
up on the D block leaves 1 degree squat or am I confused?
up on the D block leaves 1 degree squat or am I confused?
08-20-2015, 03:48 PM
#1972
08-20-2015, 05:35 PM
#1973
08-20-2015, 05:42 PM
#1974
08-20-2015, 06:07 PM
#1975
I'm in the same boat. I built my truck box stock, but it sounds like less antI squat is needed for my track. I'm a little confused on the pills, like how it equals 3 degrees of anti squat from box, and what to change to get it to 1 degree
08-20-2015, 06:12 PM
#1976
Book
The book has the dots in the center for 3 degrees anti squat what pills do i need to use i have the ones that came with the kit?
08-20-2015, 07:28 PM
#1977
Also, do the rear hubs themselves provide a degree of toe in as was the case in the original 410?
08-20-2015, 08:10 PM
#1978
Tech Regular
Somehow I got myself confused to...so with the composite blocks what inserts do I want to have less anti squat? The book setup has the downward ones and I went to the center ones. Don't have the manual with me at moment to check. Thanks to everyone on this thread. I get alot of useful info from it. Love the truck.
08-20-2015, 08:23 PM
#1979
Less anti squat means the rear arms are flatter front to back when viewed from the side of the truck. So for the minimum anti squat use the lowest front hinge pin location and the highest rear location.
From what I can tell the only aluminum block that is different than the composite is the "D" block. It is 1mm higher than the composite.
From what I can tell the only aluminum block that is different than the composite is the "D" block. It is 1mm higher than the composite.
08-20-2015, 08:59 PM
#1980
Hope this helps some of you beginners for a good visual reference of pro/level/ and anti-squat.
As rcgod said, you will want to drop the front of the hinge pin with the pills to reduce anit-squat to achieve a more level attitude of angle.
I don't own a tekno yet, but on my losi there are numbers printed on the pills that indicate the degree difference. But as a layman way to do things, just lower the pin end toward the front of the vehicle. By doing this however, you will be reducing forward traction from the rear tires, as you are losing torsional rise which slows the rate at which the force will be applied downward by the tires under acceleration. But you will gain more stability as the shocks can be compressed easier over the bumps, thus improving over all ride and absorption. Once you get the ride and jump handling your after, you may consider raising diff fluid weights a bit to negate the acceleration loss.
Just as anything you do, there will be trade off's that you will have to determine to be worth it over all. Don't just go out and take away all of your anti squat. There will be a fine medium that can be found with gradual increments. But you will have to run the truck each time you make a change to find out to what degree.
The best thing to do with things of this nature in general is to only take away as much as you can live with on the track you are frequenting instead of dialing everything out all the way and then coming back in.
As rcgod said, you will want to drop the front of the hinge pin with the pills to reduce anit-squat to achieve a more level attitude of angle.
I don't own a tekno yet, but on my losi there are numbers printed on the pills that indicate the degree difference. But as a layman way to do things, just lower the pin end toward the front of the vehicle. By doing this however, you will be reducing forward traction from the rear tires, as you are losing torsional rise which slows the rate at which the force will be applied downward by the tires under acceleration. But you will gain more stability as the shocks can be compressed easier over the bumps, thus improving over all ride and absorption. Once you get the ride and jump handling your after, you may consider raising diff fluid weights a bit to negate the acceleration loss.
Just as anything you do, there will be trade off's that you will have to determine to be worth it over all. Don't just go out and take away all of your anti squat. There will be a fine medium that can be found with gradual increments. But you will have to run the truck each time you make a change to find out to what degree.
The best thing to do with things of this nature in general is to only take away as much as you can live with on the track you are frequenting instead of dialing everything out all the way and then coming back in.
Last edited by Josh L; 08-20-2015 at 09:13 PM.