Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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#3812
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
I have wrote about this subject many times over within this thread and many others, so I don't want to blow it anymore in this particular thread.
But long story short they are capacitors made to hook to your ESC parallel to your battery input terminals. They will reduce voltage ripple and will keep your electronics more stable and much cooler over all. It is cheap and one of the best things you can do for any ESC on any electric RC platform period.
Here is a link to read more about it from Castle Creation.
CC Cap Pack
And here is a link to one of the better cap packs offered IMO, due to it including a diode on the board as well to prevent voltage spiking from reversing polarity.
HobbyWing Cap Pack/w Diode
But long story short they are capacitors made to hook to your ESC parallel to your battery input terminals. They will reduce voltage ripple and will keep your electronics more stable and much cooler over all. It is cheap and one of the best things you can do for any ESC on any electric RC platform period.
Here is a link to read more about it from Castle Creation.
CC Cap Pack
And here is a link to one of the better cap packs offered IMO, due to it including a diode on the board as well to prevent voltage spiking from reversing polarity.
HobbyWing Cap Pack/w Diode
#3813
Mine are the same, you can almost spin them with one finger, will be getting aluminum ones ordered
#3814
I have wrote about this subject many times over within this thread and many others, so I don't want to blow it anymore in this particular thread.
But long story short they are capacitors made to hook to your ESC parallel to your battery input terminals. They will reduce voltage ripple and will keep your electronics more stable and much cooler over all. It is cheap and one of the best things you can do for any ESC on any electric RC platform period.
Here is a link to read more about it from Castle Creation.
CC Cap Pack
And here is a link to one of the better cap packs offered IMO, due to it including a diode on the board as well to prevent voltage spiking from reversing polarity.
HobbyWing Cap Pack/w Diode
But long story short they are capacitors made to hook to your ESC parallel to your battery input terminals. They will reduce voltage ripple and will keep your electronics more stable and much cooler over all. It is cheap and one of the best things you can do for any ESC on any electric RC platform period.
Here is a link to read more about it from Castle Creation.
CC Cap Pack
And here is a link to one of the better cap packs offered IMO, due to it including a diode on the board as well to prevent voltage spiking from reversing polarity.
HobbyWing Cap Pack/w Diode
Thanks for the help.
#3816
Tech Initiate
Tekno's TKR5253B servo horn is a nice improvement over their old aluminum design.
The screw for the steering linkage is now sunk flush in the arm.
The larger M3 screw for the clamp is also better but not included.
An additional second inner hole they recommend for protecting the servo.
The screw for the steering linkage is now sunk flush in the arm.
The larger M3 screw for the clamp is also better but not included.
An additional second inner hole they recommend for protecting the servo.
#3817
Is anybody doing any type of mod to keep their battery straps away from the driveline, it seems that no matter how I configure it, the straps are way too close for comfort
#3818
I have the same concern. Also it's a pain trying to keep 6 things out of the way to get the pack in there.
#3820
Tech Initiate
cap
you want to solder the cap pak directly to the posts on the esc ... the closer the pak is to the esc the better it works i was told.
I looked at your previous posts but didn't find a photo. Would you post a photo of how you installed your cap pack? I am no electrical engineer and am a little lost. I see the Castle diagrams of how their caps are installed, but am unsure of the HW version. Can the wires of the caps be soldered to the posts of an RX8, or to the battery connector joint?
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
#3821
Tekno's TKR5253B servo horn is a nice improvement over their old aluminum design.
The screw for the steering linkage is now sunk flush in the arm.
The larger M3 screw for the clamp is also better but not included.
An additional second inner hole they recommend for protecting the servo.
The screw for the steering linkage is now sunk flush in the arm.
The larger M3 screw for the clamp is also better but not included.
An additional second inner hole they recommend for protecting the servo.
#3822
Ditched the front and rear sway bar for outdoor med bite . Works nice ! Going to leave em off outdoors ! But going to def put back for indoor high bite..
#3823
So I just got done building this truck. This will be my first SC truck that I plan to race at my local track which is a medium sized indoor carpet track.
I do have a few questions regarding the truck itself.
During the shock build I was trying to set the shocks up for 0 rebound using the traditional bladders. Pushing the shock shaft all the way in, screwing in the body while bleeding the air out I always get rebound, Almost half the shafts worth of rebound. Is this normal?
I plan to run a Tekin RX8 gen 2 and the Tekin Pro 4HD 4600KV(This seems to be pretty common)
Looking at wheels it looks Like I will go with the DE racing Speedline Plus wheels.
Was looking for advice on the best tire to run with those wheels for carpet?
I do have a few questions regarding the truck itself.
During the shock build I was trying to set the shocks up for 0 rebound using the traditional bladders. Pushing the shock shaft all the way in, screwing in the body while bleeding the air out I always get rebound, Almost half the shafts worth of rebound. Is this normal?
I plan to run a Tekin RX8 gen 2 and the Tekin Pro 4HD 4600KV(This seems to be pretty common)
Looking at wheels it looks Like I will go with the DE racing Speedline Plus wheels.
Was looking for advice on the best tire to run with those wheels for carpet?
#3824
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
In case you guys didn't notice it, I've created the Wiki for this thread. Similar to the old '1st page' posts, but now it appears at the top of every page.
Anyone can edit it, but just keep in mind that EVERY edit is recorded and we can see who did it. Abusing it will result in a forum ban.
My suggestion is that if you have a new item you want to post on the Wiki and aren't sure if you should, just post it in the normal part of the thread and ask. If you see a majority in agreement, post it.
Anyone can edit it, but just keep in mind that EVERY edit is recorded and we can see who did it. Abusing it will result in a forum ban.
My suggestion is that if you have a new item you want to post on the Wiki and aren't sure if you should, just post it in the normal part of the thread and ask. If you see a majority in agreement, post it.
#3825
I do have a few questions regarding the truck itself.
During the shock build I was trying to set the shocks up for 0 rebound using the traditional bladders. Pushing the shock shaft all the way in, screwing in the body while bleeding the air out I always get rebound, Almost half the shafts worth of rebound. Is this normal?
During the shock build I was trying to set the shocks up for 0 rebound using the traditional bladders. Pushing the shock shaft all the way in, screwing in the body while bleeding the air out I always get rebound, Almost half the shafts worth of rebound. Is this normal?